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· Grumpy Old Man
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314 Posts
Great thread, thanks for keeping it bumped.

I am in the process of replacing four caps, C401, C402, C601 and C701. Had a heck of a time getting some of the solder joints to melt, even at up to 780 Farenheit. In the end, I will have to drill out two of the more stubborn leads. I figure there must be some pretty effective heat sink attached to those leads.

Not that experienced with this, wish me luck...
_____________________________________________________________

First thing I would do is drop your heat. I use 300c are 570F heat up the old junk solder hit it with some good new solder it will come out will very little effort with a good solder sucker. It will not hurt to drill out if all else fells it's not a multi layer board. Hope you get it done soon.
Tim in the swamp...
 

· Premium Member
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26,133 Posts
My Series 3 is stuck in the reboot cycle. The history of my unit is that almost exactly one year ago, I replaced a bulging capacitor (C701) on the power supply and upgraded the drive to a 2TB (WD Caviar Green), performed the WDIDLE3 /D on it and everything worked fine for a year. I just opened it up and noticed another bulging capacitor (C601) and perhaps also C401 and the capacitor next to it. I checked the 12V supply (yellow) and it is 12.5 [good], and the 5V supply (red) and it is 5.15 [good]. I posted this first part earlier on the WDIDLE thread, but I have more information now, and I found the correct thread for this discussion.

I'm guessing one of two things is happening here:

1. Either the power supply has deteriorated and can't supply enough current for the drive and/or chipset.

OR

2. Somehow WDIDLE3 reversed itself recently and I need to perform it again on the hard drive.

I removed the hard drive (and took it somewhere with desktop access) and created a boot disk with WDIDLE3 on it and lo and behold when I checked WDIDLE3 /R, it seems to have reverted to 62 minutes (3720). So I ran WDIDLE3 /D and checked it and it's back to disabled. Then I brought the drive back home, reassembled everything and it still suffers from the reboot loop. Then I checked the power supplies again and they seem okay, but I also checked the 3.3V supply (orange) and it seems a bit low at 3.05 - 3.1V. So for now I disassembled the power supply and will take it to the office tomorrow where I can replace the offending capacitors (I have all of them [I think] because I bought a full set last year from DigiKey).
Why not just replace all the caps at one time? That's probably the root cause of all your issues.
 

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HeronScott this is great! Thank you so much for putting this together

I did finally get the parts and repaired my original S3 OLED power supply which had bulging capacitors for the C401/C402 (2200uF 6.3V). Thought I would post the parts list here for anyone else looking to do this.

TiVo S3 OLED capacitor list:
3Y power supply: CP-1104 R2
TiVo PN: SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3

I went ahead and replaced 11 of the 15 capacitors to hopefully preemptively catch any of the other primary ones that might fail. The ones that I replaced fall into 3 main groups on the power supply board so that's how I've listed them starting with the ones that were bulging on mine.

C401 2200uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FR0J222 Digikey P14365-ND $0.81 (Alternate: P15308CT-ND?)
C402 2200uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FR0J222 Digikey P14365-ND $0.81 (Alternate: P15308CT-ND?)

C601 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 Digikey P14402-ND $1.01
C701 2200uF 25V Panasonic EEU-FR1E222L Digikey P14428-ND $1.43
C501 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C502 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C504 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01

C503 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C603 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 Digikey P14394-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)
C702 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 Digikey P14394-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)
C403 1000uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FM0J102 Digikey P12340-ND $0.51

All are rated at [email protected] except for the last 3 which are [email protected] and [email protected] Cost was $9.59 in parts plus $0.48 tax and $4.91 S&H for a total of $14.98.

I actually ordered enough caps to repair my 2nd S3 OLED as well since it has a few bulging 3300uF caps so the S&H was for both sets although the way it was boxed and shipped, I'm not sure it would have been any cheaper for just 1 set of caps.

I hope this helps someone else who might have an S3 OLED with a bad caps!

Scott
 

· Grumpy Old Man
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314 Posts
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1C471
Mfr. #: EEU-FR1C471
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded16VDC 470uF 8x11mm LS3.5mm
C702 Qty # 1
______________________________________________________________
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1A102L
Mfr. #: EEU-FR1A102L
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded10VDC 1000uF 8x15mm LS3.5mm
C403 C503 2 Qty # 2
______________________________________________________________
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1C102L
Mfr. #: EEU-FR1C102L
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded16VDC 1000uF 8x20mm LS3.5mm
C701 1 Qty # 1
______________________________________________________________
Mouser #: 667-EEU-FR1A222L
Mfr. #: EEU-FR1A222L
Desc.: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded10VDC 2200uF 10x25mm LS5mm
C501C502C504C402C407 5Qty # 5

www.mouser.com
 

· Registered
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25 Posts
My Series 3 is stuck in the reboot cycle. The history of my unit is that almost exactly one year ago, I replaced a bulging capacitor (C701) on the power supply and upgraded the drive to a 2TB (WD Caviar Green), performed the WDIDLE3 /D on it and everything worked fine for a year. I just opened it up and noticed another bulging capacitor (C601) and perhaps also C401 and the capacitor next to it. I checked the 12V supply (yellow) and it is 12.5 [good], and the 5V supply (red) and it is 5.15 [good].
sorry to comment on this so late, but maybe this will help someone...

if you are checking voltages by a DC voltmeter, that may not be adequate to detect a problem. The primary purpose of capacitors here is to filter out ripple in the conversion from AC to DC. A simple DC voltmeter cannot tell you often whether you are seeing 12V DC, mostly ripple-free vs 12V DC with too much ripple left (an analog meter may be a little better than a digital meter, but since these supplies are not linear (120Hz ripple), but switchers, the ripple frequency may be very high).

One tack is to also look at what the VOM says on the AC volt setting. Depending on the design of the meter, it *should* tell you if there is some appreciable AC ripple left on the DC output. The best of course is to use an oscilloscope to look at the amount of ripple.

Also wrt MOVs, they definitely wear out with time and "hits". If there is any suspicion about getting spikes, they should be replaced. It isn't easy to determine whether a MOV is now useless.
 

· Grumpy Old Man
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314 Posts
The only way to tell if a cap is bad is by a cap tester "out of circuit" or with a oscilloscope. To replace the caps is a small cost but ALWAYS know were the power cord at. It's a good thing to take it out of the room. HOp0e you fix your TiVo.....
 

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16,638 Posts
Sorry to bump this but my Tivo HD decided to take a dump. There are two bulged capacitors in the power supply. Is there a list of all parts needed to replace to refurb the power supply in the HD?
If you have a TCD652160 or TCD658000, instead of a TCD648250B, there are two possibilities for which power supply you have--the 3Y one or the AcBel one.

They're interchangeable if you're replacing the entire power supply, but those two companies took slightly differing design approaches to meeting the TiVo specs for a power supply for those two models (the HD and the HD XL), so the replacement capacitor parts list is different for the two different brands of power supplies.

Both lists are in this thread several pages back.

If your power supply is failing there's probably nothing wrong with it except failing capacitors, some of which may not be showing visible signs.

So find the parts list for whichever power supply you have and replacing all those intermediate sized capacitors should do it without having to replace any semiconductors or other parts.

Be sure to go back and read where we talk about why you need high temp-low ESR capacitors, and how to install them with the polarity properly observed, and all the solder melting tricks, and how many Watts are needed, and all that other "benefit of our combined experience" stuff.
 

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I did finally get the parts and repaired my original S3 OLED power supply which had bulging capacitors for the C401/C402 (2200uF 6.3V). Thought I would post the parts list here for anyone else looking to do this.

TiVo S3 OLED capacitor list:
3Y power supply: CP-1104 R2
TiVo PN: SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3

I went ahead and replaced 11 of the 15 capacitors to hopefully preemptively catch any of the other primary ones that might fail. The ones that I replaced fall into 3 main groups on the power supply board so that's how I've listed them starting with the ones that were bulging on mine.

C401 2200uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FR0J222 Digikey P14365-ND $0.81 (Alternate: P15308CT-ND?)
C402 2200uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FR0J222 Digikey P14365-ND $0.81 (Alternate: P15308CT-ND?)

C601 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 Digikey P14402-ND $1.01
C701 2200uF 25V Panasonic EEU-FR1E222L Digikey P14428-ND $1.43
C501 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C502 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C504 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01

C503 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C603 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 Digikey P14394-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)
C702 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 Digikey P14394-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)
C403 1000uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FM0J102 Digikey P12340-ND $0.51

All are rated at [email protected] except for the last 3 which are [email protected] and [email protected] Cost was $9.59 in parts plus $0.48 tax and $4.91 S&H for a total of $14.98.

I actually ordered enough caps to repair my 2nd S3 OLED as well since it has a few bulging 3300uF caps so the S&H was for both sets although the way it was boxed and shipped, I'm not sure it would have been any cheaper for just 1 set of caps.

I hope this helps someone else who might have an S3 OLED with a bad caps!

Scott
Thanks, for saving my parents Tivo3!
 

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My TiVo HD will no longer power on at all. No lights. No noise. No nothing. It was working fine and had been since 2009. No issues at all.

My TiVo is a model TCD652160. I have a 1TB WD Black drive in there. Everything was working great until we lost power during a storm last night. I know what you're thinking! But here's the thing, it was still working after the power died because I have it connected to a UPS. It was working fine on battery power - in fact it was still recording off of my still live FiOS (also on a UPS). Then I powered down the UPS that the TiVo is connected to and unplugged the UPS from the wall. I then powered down my second UPS supporting the FiOS ONT and unplugged it. So I don't think there could have been a line spike on either the A/C power or the coax since the coax starts at the MoCA router and that was all unplugged as was the ONT. When the power came back on, I started plugging things back in expecting my TiVo to boot up as normal... but I go to look at it and there's NOTHING! No lights, HD does not spin up, fan doesn't spin, no noise.. just nothing. Of course, I tried unplugging, different outlet, etc., to no avail.

I have tested the HD on my PC and it works fine. I tested the fuse on the TiVo PSU for continuity, and the fuse is good. So that leaves the main board and the rest of the power supply. I'm guessing it's the power supply, but is there any way to test that? Because I tried voltage testing some of the leads and I get absolutely no reading on the multimeter for any of them, red, orange or yellow. I am capable of replacing the caps, but there are no obvious signs of capacitor issues... absolutely no bulges or leaks. Everything on the power supply is very clean.

To be clear, I was having no issues like random reboots or other erratic behavior prior to this complete failure. (I read every post in this entire 18 page thread!) Although I took preventative actions after we lost power, and theoretically my TiVo should still be working fine, it's not. And I'm concerned since most of the people in thread were having issues with their TiVo or had bulged or leaking caps whereas I have none.

I have the AcBel ST7002 PSU.

Should I just order a working PSU from eBay?

Any assistance or insight would be greatly appreciated! Thank you for your time.
 

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I ordered the 3Y version of the TCD652160 PSU that already had it's caps replaced from a seller on eBay (rcgraves2002). I need to get this box back up and running as it is the only FiOS capable tuner I have in the area that I spend the most time in. Right now I'm using my Samsung Note tablet with Vz Mobile as my TV - it's better than nothing!
 

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Go ahead and pull the hard drive and hook it to a PC and boot from a CD with the WD diagnostic software on it and run the long test.

If the PC's motherboard is a Gigabyte brand, make sure the regular hard drive stays attached as the first hard drive it looks at at boot time (even though you'll be booting from a CD), otherwise, it might put a Host Protected Area on the TiVo drive, which would be a royal pain to fix.
 

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Go ahead and pull the hard drive and hook it to a PC and boot from a CD with the WD diagnostic software on it and run the long test.

If the PC's motherboard is a Gigabyte brand, make sure the regular hard drive stays attached as the first hard drive it looks at at boot time (even though you'll be booting from a CD), otherwise, it might put a Host Protected Area on the TiVo drive, which would be a royal pain to fix.
I have an Asus. It doesn't mess with the drives. I have that boot CD mentioned in some of the threads around here somewhere...
 

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That would probably be the Ultimate Boot CD, which does have the WD testware.
Yup, I have that. I just haven't had the free computer time to set it up and run it. I have a complicated setup.

Also, I literally just found out that the replacment PSU will arrive today instead of Monday (as it was originally scheduled), so I'm not sure if I'll end up running the drive diags or not.
 

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My S3THD is back in the land of the living! The replacement 3Y PSU arrived today. I stuck it in about an hour ago and it booted up immediately upon inserting power. I just got done with the wiring and putting it back where it goes. Everything is exactly the way it was before I lost power Sunday night, including the recordings made up and until I shut down the UPS just after 8pm. EDIT - Interestingly, at least one thing did change, which was the video output format switched from where I had it set to "native" to "fixed 1080i" - I don't know why that changed. I changed it back to "native," no problem. I don't know how people watch TV in the wrong aspect ratio. I hate the stretched look.

I still don't know the mechanism of failure for the original AcBel PSU, especially considering that I hadn't had issues up until that night and I thought I did all the right things after the initial power outage - shutting everything down, unplugging, etc. We had no problems with anything else in the house. Just one dead TiVo HD.

Regarding this "reburbished" PSU with described "Bad Capacitors have been replaced" as noted on the eBay listing, the seller (rcgraves2002) was apparently quite literal in that interpretation. From what I can see, only two caps were replaced on this PSU - the two at C403 & C503. The rest of the caps look perfect, but there is no evidence that they were replaced as the solder looks factory on everything else. So I may very well do the rest of the caps on here. At least now I can order them and not worry about paying the insane expedited shipping costs that Mouser and the others request - although their standard shipping is also overpriced.

Unitron, although I didn't get a chance to run the hard drive tests, I would like to thank you for trying to help me directly and for all of the work on this thread which helped immensely (I have read every post) and your work on many, many other threads here on this forum. I know you are one of the top guys here. I just want to say thank you.

Just out of complete curiosity, does anyone know the power output of the 3Y PSU used on the TCD652? I assumed it was the better of the two PSUs, the other being my original AcBel.. but there is no info on here regarding that and I cannot find any specs for the 3Y.
 

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That appears to match what's in my TiVo HD. Note that I've only replaced the capacitors in one of my S3 OLED's but while I was upgrading the hard drive in our TiVo HD, I wrote down the capacitor information for future reference.

TiVo S3 HD capacitor list:
Acbel Polytech: ST7002-BW0G
TiVo PN: SPWR-00011-000 Rev B0

C14 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 P14402-ND $1.01
C27 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 P14402-ND $1.01
C17 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 P14402-ND $1.01
C31 1000uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C102L P14397-ND $0.71

****C15 1000uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FM0J102 P12340-ND $0.51*******

C20 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 P14383-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)

Hi

I just replaced some Capacitors in a Acbel : ST7002-BW0G powered TCD652160 unit from the list above.The unit would not power up.
I was able to replace 5 of the 6 Capacitors the 1000uF 6.3v was out of stock at didgikey.
Can a 1000uF 16v be used in place of the 1000uF 6.3v. Also what other components should I take a look at. The power cord is new and the PS fuse is also good.

Thanks
 

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That appears to match what's in my TiVo HD. Note that I've only replaced the capacitors in one of my S3 OLED's but while I was upgrading the hard drive in our TiVo HD, I wrote down the capacitor information for future reference.

TiVo S3 HD capacitor list:
Acbel Polytech: ST7002-BW0G
TiVo PN: SPWR-00011-000 Rev B0

C14 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 P14402-ND $1.01
C27 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 P14402-ND $1.01
C17 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 P14402-ND $1.01
C31 1000uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C102L P14397-ND $0.71

****C15 1000uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FM0J102 P12340-ND $0.51*******

C20 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 P14383-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)

Hi

I just replaced some Capacitors in a Acbel : ST7002-BW0G powered TCD652160 unit from the list above.The unit would not power up.
I was able to replace 5 of the 6 Capacitors the 1000uF 6.3v was out of stock at didgikey.
Can a 1000uF 16v be used in place of the 1000uF 6.3v. Also what other components should I take a look at. The power cord is new and the PS fuse is also good.

Thanks
You need to be sure that you are getting low ESR caps rated for 105 degrees Celsius/Centigrade, and the uF (microFarad) rating has to be the same, but you can cheat a little on the working voltage, but only on the high side.

In other words, if you need a 16V cap but can't get one you can use a 25V one, but if you need a 25V and can't get one, you can't use a 16V, you'll have to go up to a 35V.

In the case of the 6.3V cap, I'd try for a 10V first, and only go with the 16V if I couldn't get the 10.

And of course be sure to get the negative and positive leads in the right holes.
 
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