[DocNo]

<Light bulb goes on> Ah! My company supplied me with a GX270 whose power supply failed. I always thought it funny, because modern power supplies are so reliable. I'll bet that's what it was.

Our problems were with the motherboards, not the power supplies - but it wouldn't be a surprise to me if it wasn't your issue as well. Dell sold a ton of those boxes so the issue could have definitely crossed over.

 

[replaytv]

Avaya (spin off of AT&T/Lucent) had most of their Map5 Intuity voice mail systems go down because of bad capacitors about 10 years ago. They spent millions replacing the mother boards, all because of a bad capacitor supplier. Amazingly enough, Avaya didn't proactively replace them. So hospitals, critical businesses and law enforcement were without a key part of the phone systems while Avaya got technicians out to repair the voice mail boxes. I think that is when many customers realized that their best interests were not being met by Avaya and went with a different vendor. That was only reinforced when the same boxes went down every 248 days due to a software bug that AVaya refused to address.

 

[stopright]

Looks like I found this thread a little late. My Series 3 collapsed two weeks after the warranty ran out which was extremely frustrating for me. I have been talking to some service providers about their provided DVR service, but I have to admit I am partial to Tivo. What would you guys do, do any of you use generic or provider provided DVR systems? It would be cool to find something that I could export right to a dvd burning system of some sort.

 

[dwit]

Looks like I found this thread a little late. My Series 3 collapsed two weeks after the warranty ran out...

Well, if it's due to bad capacitors, it probably can be fixed. Same for bad power supply in general, or bad hard drive. They can all be replaced.

If you have a lifetime subscription, may be worth repairing. Especially if you can diy.

 

[imcordless]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ckpz0vI32c0[/media]

 

[foamy909]

As a lurker, I just wanted to say thank you to everyone here for their input and advice. I have a Series 3 that was having reboot issues and I ended up replacing the hard drive and a bulging capacitor. Bought several 2200uF 25V 105C caps from Mouser and got it installed on the first try. I know that I would not have noticed the bulge without the info in this post and others, and I am pretty sure I would not have attempted it myself without the same (no real soldering experience).

Thanks again.

 

[unitron]

As a lurker, I just wanted to say thank you to everyone here for their input and advice. I have a Series 3 that was having reboot issues and I ended up replacing the hard drive and a bulging capacitor. Bought several 2200uF 25V 105C caps from Mouser and got it installed on the first try. I know that I would not have noticed the bulge without the info in this post and others, and I am pretty sure I would not have attempted it myself without the same (no real soldering experience).

Thanks again.

Now you can start trolling Craigslist for other dead TiVos and use up the rest of those caps.

 

[foamy909]

Now you can start trolling Craigslist for other dead TiVos and use up the rest of those caps.

Either that or sell them with a small mark-up to help subsidize the shipping costs.

I would definitely keep one as a back-up, but could send the the other two via usps to someone in need who was not in a huge rush. It seems that one is the one that fails fairly often.

 

[sshipway]

I managed to fix my broken NZ Series 3 Tivo for the cost of 3 2200uF capacitors (NZ$2.40).

My Tivo was stuck in the 'powering up' boot screen and getting nowwhere. Fortunately I could buy a new one for only NZ$200 but still wanted to try and fix the old one.

Opened the case, and verified HDD was OK -- and heard the tick-tick noise from the power supply proving that was the problem.

Simple job to identify and replace the 3 2200uF/10V capacitors with 2200uF/16V ones -- had this not worked I'd have replaces the 47uF/50V ones as well.

However, simple replace of these 3 fixed everything! $200 value for $2.40.
Thanks to all who posted.

(For the benefit of Googlers: New Zealand TiVo repair power supply boot problem)

 

[MichaelK]

looking for some confirmation and a hand finding replacements.

my S3 died last night-seems to be power supply- at first it was stuck in reboot loop of welcome power up then blank screen, lather rinse repeat.

I unplugged it and went to bed. Looked at it to day with the cover off and when i plug it in a get nothing but a clicking from the power supply- not the drvie click of death (had a dozen or so tivo's over 10 or so years so know that sound well... sadly).

When I look at it from the front on the right of the tall black heatsink is a tall skinny cap that is bulging- (C701 on the board) marked 2200uf 25v (another post says that cluster of tall ones is the usual culprit). But also just to the left of that black heat sink are 2 shorter caps also marked 2200uf but 6.3v (C401 and the one next to it)

I assume i just need to change these 3 caps.

But only really every built from kits so no idea how to spec things.

some other posts say I should be looking for low ESR types and others said be sure to get 105 degrees

so i picked out these from amazon:
4 pack panasoinc low ESR 105 degree radial 2200uf 25v

and this:
8pack rubycon low ESR 105 degrees radial leads 2200uf 6.3v

those cut the mustard?

thanks
Mike

 

[unitron]

looking for some confirmation and a hand finding replacements.

my S3 died last night-seems to be power supply- at first it was stuck in reboot loop of welcome power up then blank screen, lather rinse repeat.

I unplugged it and went to bed. Looked at it to day with the cover off and when i plug it in a get nothing but a clicking from the power supply- not the drvie click of death (had a dozen or so tivo's over 12 or so years so know that sound well sadly).

When I look at it from the front on the right of the tall black heatsink is a tall skinny cap that is bulging- (C701 on the board) marked 2200uf 25v (another post says that cluster of tall ones is the usual culprit). But also just to the left of that black heat sink are 2 shorter caps also marked 2200uf but 6.3v (C401 and the one next to it)

I assume i just need to change these 3 caps.

But only really every built from kits so no idea how to spec things.

some other posts say I should be looking for low ESR types and others said be sure to get 105 degrees

so i picked out these from amazon:
4 pack panasoinc low ESR 105 degree radial 2200uf 25v

and this:
8pack rubycon low ESR 105 degrees radial leads 2200uf 6.3v

those cut the mustard?

thanks
Mike

Sometimes 2 capacitors with the same specs will differ in size and shape, one being taller and skinnier, the other shorter and wider.

As long as these aren't too wide or, if under a heat sink that "arches" over, like on S2 supplies, too tall, those choices should work fine.

Those are two of the better regarded brands.

The prices are a little on the high side, but not terribly.

$5 for shipping is a bit much, especially if they aren't going to combine it into one order and only charge the $5 once.

And you'll have plenty of leftovers.

Make sure to observe polarity, one lead's marked with negative signs (which makes the other one the positive by default). Observe which way the ones you unsolder and remove are turned and put the new ones in the same way.

 

[MichaelK]

Sometimes 2 capacitors with the same specs will differ in size and shape, one being taller and skinnier, the other shorter and wider.

As long as these aren't too wide or, if under a heat sink that "arches" over, like on S2 supplies, too tall, those choices should work fine.

Those are two of the better regarded brands.

The prices are a little on the high side, but not terribly.

$5 for shipping is a bit much, especially if they aren't going to combine it into one order and only charge the $5 once.

And you'll have plenty of leftovers.

Make sure to observe polarity, one lead's marked with negative signs (which makes the other one the positive by default). Observe which way the ones you unsolder and remove are turned and put the new ones in the same way.

thanks for confirming-

i checked the physical measurements and they were in the ballpark of what's on the board now (I noticed some others i saw were way off and thought the specs might be different so avoided them). (and the black heatsink on the S3 power supply DOES arch over the 6.5 volt ones )

I actually like that there's 4 times as many of each that i need- i have a second S3 of the same vintage so figure it's only time before that one craps out. So I really need 2 sets and this way i can screw up twice in the process- ;-) (haven't always had the best luck futzing with my tivo's- many years back i "Donated" an early directivo to the the folks at DDB when they needed one to figure out something for the topic that shall not be mentioned. I had somehow futzed the PROM trying to reprogram it.So it was worthless to me but not an issue for those guys....)

the shipping was a bit annoying but figured it was simpler to use my amazon account rather then opening yet another one someplace else.

thanks again
Mike

 

[unitron]

thanks for confirming-

i checked the physical measurements and they were in the ballpark of what's on the board now (I noticed some others i saw were way off and thought the specs might be different so avoided them). (and the black heatsink on the S3 power supply DOES arch over the 6.5 volt ones )

I actually like that there's 4 times as many of each that i need- i have a second S3 of the same vintage so figure it's only time before that one craps out. So I really need 2 sets and this way i can screw up twice in the process- ;-) (haven't always had the best luck futzing with my tivo's- many years back i "Donated" an early directivo to the the folks at DDB when they needed one to figure out something for the topic that shall not be mentioned. I had somehow futzed the PROM trying to reprogram it.So it was worthless to me but not an issue for those guys....)

the shipping was a bit annoying but figured it was simpler to use my amazon account rather then opening yet another one someplace else.

thanks again
Mike

If you've got experience unsoldering, programming, and resoldering a PROM, this should be a piece of cake for you. Good luck.

 

[MichaelK]

If you've got experience unsoldering, programming, and resoldering a PROM, this should be a piece of cake for you. Good luck.

nah, wish i could do surface mount but a little over my head- that's why i donated it- lol.

Back on the series1 directivo's you could just reprogram the prom on the board. (in fact the prom came at the very beginning set up without the programming on the drive even being encrypted, then tivo/directv sent down an update to encrypt the drive contents. There were tools to reprogram it yourself- and I tried them but i futzed it somehow. So I donated it to the guys working on other tools since they were ableto unsolder, reprogram and socket.

Years and years ago some things from kits or plans and soldered myself so i can handle this (I can recall the first thing I built was a ring detector for a modem for an atari 400 computer, in fact i think it was basically some caps and a relay on a bread board from the rat shack) . So while surface mount is over my head something with leads is not a problem.

 

[unitron]

nah, wish i could do surface mount but a little over my head- that's why i donated it- lol.

Back on the series1 directivo's you could just reprogram the prom on the board. (in fact the prom came at the very beginning set up without the programming on the drive even being encrypted, then tivo/directv sent down an update to encrypt the drive contents. There were tools to reprogram it yourself- and I tried them but i futzed it somehow. So I donated it to the guys working on other tools since they were ableto unsolder, reprogram and socket.

Years and years ago some things from kits or plans and soldered myself so i can handle this (I can recall the first thing I built was a ring detector for a modem for an atari 400 computer, in fact i think it was basically some caps and a relay on a bread board from the rat shack) . So while surface mount is over my head something with leads is not a problem.

You'll be okay.

Just don't use acid-core plumber's solder.

 

[Branigan]

If you feel comfortable removing the power supply, and want to pay shipping/mailing both ways (and a few bucks for the replacement capactitor(s), I can unsolder the bad ones and solder in good replacements, no charge for labor.

Hi Unitron, I'm trying to extend the life of my beloved Series 3. Does your offer to replace bad caps still stand? If so, please let me know what I need to do to get started!

 

[cdp1276]

My Series 3 TiVo failed this past week too with fan noise that had been occurring for a few weeks.

The system was completely dead, after going into a reboot loop. I feared the hard drive had failed. Following removing the top cover and plugging in, I could hear the tic tic tic noise from the power supply and I found that there were 4 defective capacitors on the Power Supply board plus I figured that the bearings in the fan were defective also. I purchased a new fan from local (and on-line www.frozencpu.com) company, part number 'Everflow, 127025DL'. I also replaced the following capacitors on the Power Supply board with NTE parts. C401 & C402 replaced with 2200uF 16V,
C601 replaced with 2200uF 16V,and C701 replaced with 2200uF 25V.

When the TiVo was reassembled it powered up and all the TiVo functions ran correctly and even seemed faster to me. The FAN was not running. Testing indicated that the controlling circuitry on the control board only sourced ~3V to the fan with the system temperature up to 59C degrees with cover half off. I decided to wire the fan to the 7V power supply output minimizing fan noise and testing finding the nominal system temperature around 38C and no system problems. This fan running at constant speed is a tad louder but I will deal with it to keep the unit running and healthy as I have lifetime on this system and grandfathered into the $6.95 MSD on my other S3.

It really shocks me that a bunch of us are having these go all at the same time. I purchased this S3 immediately upon release after being in the beta testing of the unit.

 

[unitron]

Hi Unitron, I'm trying to extend the life of my beloved Series 3. Does your offer to replace bad caps still stand? If so, please let me know what I need to do to get started!

If you want to pay postage both ways, I can replace the caps.

If that's your problem.

I don't have an S3 in which to test it when I'm done though, so I won't know if what I did fixed it or not.

What are your symptoms?

Have you had the top off and looked at the power supply and everything else yet or not?

 

[meBigGuy]

I have a refurbished TCD652160 (DVR826D) that I activated 8/25/2009. It is freezing during playback, generally when I skip 30 sec, and has rebooted once. My assumtion was that the drive is going, but do those symtoms align at all with bad caps? Is there anything I can do to actually verify that the drive is going bad? I'm going to replace it with a 1 TB. I guess I should pop it open and check for the Capxcon power supply capacitors before I take it down for the disk change. Any comments or advice would be appreciated. Anything else I should do while it is open?

 

[unitron]

I have a refurbished TCD652160 (DVR826D) that I activated 8/25/2009. It is freezing during playback, generally when I skip 30 sec, and has rebooted once. My assumtion was that the drive is going, but do those symtoms align at all with bad caps? Is there anything I can do to actually verify that the drive is going bad? I'm going to replace it with a 1 TB. I guess I should pop it open and check for the Capxcon power supply capacitors before I take it down for the disk change. Any comments or advice would be appreciated. Anything else I should do while it is open?

You'll need a #10 Torx driver to take the top off. It'll probably be enough to remove the drive bracket as well, if you need to take the drive off of the bracket there's a small chance of needing a #15, but most likely the #10 will work.

Assuming they refurbed with the same 160GB WD drive that comes stock, get the .iso image for the bootable cd with the WD diagnostic software, burn yourself a copy, run the short test and then run the long test.

While that's going on, read this

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

and then look at the picture here (all mad props to steve614)

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=479176

to see how subtle the difference is, and then carefully examine the power supply.

It is possible to have power supply problems without being able to visually detect anything wrong with the capacitors, but most of the time there will be some indication.

Do you have any experience using a voltmeter?

What brand and model 1TB are you planning on using?