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looking for some confirmation and a hand finding replacements.

my S3 died last night-seems to be power supply- at first it was stuck in reboot loop of welcome power up then blank screen, lather rinse repeat.

I unplugged it and went to bed. Looked at it to day with the cover off and when i plug it in a get nothing but a clicking from the power supply- not the drvie click of death (had a dozen or so tivo's over 10 or so years so know that sound well... sadly).

When I look at it from the front on the right of the tall black heatsink is a tall skinny cap that is bulging- (C701 on the board) marked 2200uf 25v (another post says that cluster of tall ones is the usual culprit). But also just to the left of that black heat sink are 2 shorter caps also marked 2200uf but 6.3v (C401 and the one next to it)

I assume i just need to change these 3 caps.

But only really every built from kits so no idea how to spec things.

some other posts say I should be looking for low ESR types and others said be sure to get 105 degrees

so i picked out these from amazon:
4 pack panasoinc low ESR 105 degree radial 2200uf 25v

and this:
8pack rubycon low ESR 105 degrees radial leads 2200uf 6.3v

those cut the mustard?

thanks
Mike
 

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Sometimes 2 capacitors with the same specs will differ in size and shape, one being taller and skinnier, the other shorter and wider.

As long as these aren't too wide or, if under a heat sink that "arches" over, like on S2 supplies, too tall, those choices should work fine.

Those are two of the better regarded brands.

The prices are a little on the high side, but not terribly.

$5 for shipping is a bit much, especially if they aren't going to combine it into one order and only charge the $5 once.

And you'll have plenty of leftovers.

Make sure to observe polarity, one lead's marked with negative signs (which makes the other one the positive by default). Observe which way the ones you unsolder and remove are turned and put the new ones in the same way.
thanks for confirming-

i checked the physical measurements and they were in the ballpark of what's on the board now (I noticed some others i saw were way off and thought the specs might be different so avoided them). (and the black heatsink on the S3 power supply DOES arch over the 6.5 volt ones )

I actually like that there's 4 times as many of each that i need- i have a second S3 of the same vintage so figure it's only time before that one craps out. So I really need 2 sets and this way i can screw up twice in the process- ;-) (haven't always had the best luck futzing with my tivo's- many years back i "Donated" an early directivo to the the folks at DDB when they needed one to figure out something for the topic that shall not be mentioned. I had somehow futzed the PROM trying to reprogram it.So it was worthless to me but not an issue for those guys....)

the shipping was a bit annoying but figured it was simpler to use my amazon account rather then opening yet another one someplace else.

thanks again
Mike
 

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If you've got experience unsoldering, programming, and resoldering a PROM, this should be a piece of cake for you. Good luck.
nah, wish i could do surface mount but a little over my head- that's why i donated it- lol.

Back on the series1 directivo's you could just reprogram the prom on the board. (in fact the prom came at the very beginning set up without the programming on the drive even being encrypted, then tivo/directv sent down an update to encrypt the drive contents. There were tools to reprogram it yourself- and I tried them but i futzed it somehow. So I donated it to the guys working on other tools since they were ableto unsolder, reprogram and socket.

Years and years ago some things from kits or plans and soldered myself so i can handle this (I can recall the first thing I built was a ring detector for a modem for an atari 400 computer, in fact i think it was basically some caps and a relay on a bread board from the rat shack) . So while surface mount is over my head something with leads is not a problem.
 

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When did you purchase your S3s? Reason I ask, I'm looking to buy a used S3 and was hoping to avoid any bad caps if possible. But of course I'm not sure if Tivo switched cap suppliers upon learning of them being defective.
I happened to purchase both my S3's in the fall of 2006. Right around when they came out if i recall. (one the first week, the other ~ month later)

BUT...

I'm under the impression that all the S3's where built during the period when these bad cap's where widely installed (as no one knew until some time later there was a problem).

The S3's themselves got replaced by the TivoHD's around a year later if i recall. so they weren't built over a very long period of time.

So If you are buying a used S3 i think it's a crapshoot. Either be prepared to spend $5-10 yourself and use a soldering iron or budget to spend $100 for the weakness replacement. Maybe you get lucky and it never happens but it seems like a significant percentage will eventually have the problem. (By significant I mean some percentage more than "normal" but certainly not a majority or anything like that)
 

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The capacitor problem in general was already well known by the time the original S3 came on the market (by that time I and thousands of others had BX chipset Pentium II/III boards fail, and S2 TiVos and DirecTivos had already had problems, and that was about the time my mom's computer's power supply went BANG--a small cap didn't bulge, it exploded), but there were millions and millions of the bad caps in the supply chains along with good ones by then....
interesting- didn't realize it was so long of a period when the mess was ongoing.
 

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Does anyone have the quantities and dimensions on these for an original S3?

Scott
there's a bunch in there of difference shapes and sizes- not sure that the same ones always go bad. There's different links here on the board of various ones that folks have used in their particular tivo's not sure there are always consisted. When i was looking for myself- I actually found places selling 'tivo capacitor replacement kits' that didn't have the ones i needed for my box.

So I think your best bet is just open your box up and read the specs on the side of any ones that looked bulged and then find them wherever you can.

my post here: http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?p=8903003#post8903003
lists what i found dead in my box and links to what i bought to fix them.
 
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