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Tomorrow, an installer will be coming to upgrade my dish, and leave me with an HR20 so I can take advantage of the new HD goodness.
I have a fairly complex system... 4 lines from the dish go to a 5x8 powered multiswitch.
4 lines go to two SD Tivos; The other 4 lines go to ANOTHER powered 5x8 multiswitch.
4 lines go to two more SD tivos; The other 4 lines run direct down to my home theater.
These 4 lines go into a THRID powered 5x8 multiswitch that gives me 8 outputs in the AV cabinet.
Currently, 4 of those are used (1 SD Tivo, 1 HR10-250), and 4 are "available" for quick connecting additional units for test, etc.
I will use two of those "available" lines for the HR20.
So, Let's see... that makes a total of 16 outputs, using 3 powered 5x8 multiswitches.
Here's a diagram:
My question... do I need DIRECTV to replace all three multiswitches with KAKU compatible units?
If so, it doesn't look like the WB68 is a powered multiswitch; I suspect this will be an issue for the long runs / multiple cascades.
What tyoe I switch do I need to make the installer use?
My thoughts are that the installer should use a powered 12 output KAKU multiswitch in the attic (inputs from the dish), and then can use all of the existing lines.
I think the 5x8 in the AV cabinet will also need to be replaced... but maybe an unpowered wb68 will work there?
Is there a better way?
I have a fairly complex system... 4 lines from the dish go to a 5x8 powered multiswitch.
4 lines go to two SD Tivos; The other 4 lines go to ANOTHER powered 5x8 multiswitch.
4 lines go to two more SD tivos; The other 4 lines run direct down to my home theater.
These 4 lines go into a THRID powered 5x8 multiswitch that gives me 8 outputs in the AV cabinet.
Currently, 4 of those are used (1 SD Tivo, 1 HR10-250), and 4 are "available" for quick connecting additional units for test, etc.
I will use two of those "available" lines for the HR20.
So, Let's see... that makes a total of 16 outputs, using 3 powered 5x8 multiswitches.
Here's a diagram:

My question... do I need DIRECTV to replace all three multiswitches with KAKU compatible units?
If so, it doesn't look like the WB68 is a powered multiswitch; I suspect this will be an issue for the long runs / multiple cascades.
What tyoe I switch do I need to make the installer use?
My thoughts are that the installer should use a powered 12 output KAKU multiswitch in the attic (inputs from the dish), and then can use all of the existing lines.
I think the 5x8 in the AV cabinet will also need to be replaced... but maybe an unpowered wb68 will work there?
Is there a better way?