Tivo Series 3 - Bad capacitors in power supply

Discussion in 'TiVo Help Center' started by johnsom, Jul 25, 2011.

  1. squint

    squint Member

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    Jun 15, 2008

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    That's a picture of one of my actual power supplies.
     
  2. unitron

    unitron Well-Known Member

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    Just because you don't see a bulge is no guarantee that the cap hasn't gone bad or isn't in the process of going bad or isn't fixing to start going bad just as soon as you get the cover back on (although the reverse, or inverse, or obverse, or whatever it is, is not true--if it's bulged or leaking, or both, there's no way it's not bad).

    So go ahead and replace all the ones on the list, which is all except the big 200 Volt one* and the little bitty ones.

    That way you don't miss any or have to go back in a month or 6 and replace the ones you skipped.

    Do it once and be done.

    *There have been one or two recent reports of the 200 V cap also going bad, so it's still very unlikely, compared to the many reports of the other caps going bad, but not absolutely impossible, so eyeball it really well before you order caps, or just spend a couple of bucks more and replace it and never worry about it again.
     
  3. timhbtr53

    timhbtr53 Grumpy Old Man

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    In the Deep...
    It's worth the time to pull C120 "The large cap" and check for leaks. I have had 4 in the last 6 month that was bad. They don't dome but will vent from the bottom. I always check all the caps with a LCR bridge and not yet have found C220 C227 C306 bad yet, but if you won't to be sure replace them all. NEVER just replace a domed cap with out the rest. When one is bad it puts a strain on all the other caps and you will be back in to replace the rest later on. And as my friend unitron says make sure you know where both ends of that power cord is at all times...
     
  4. unitron

    unitron Well-Known Member

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    Are 220, 227, and 306 those little ones about as big around as a soda straw?
     
  5. timhbtr53

    timhbtr53 Grumpy Old Man

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    Yep that's the ones.
     
  6. TostitoBandito

    TostitoBandito Active Member

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    That's exactly what my current plan for Saturday is. :)
     
  7. HerronScott

    HerronScott Well-Known Member

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  8. timhbtr53

    timhbtr53 Grumpy Old Man

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  9. Feb 2, 2015 #389 of 622
    TostitoBandito

    TostitoBandito Active Member

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    Finished replacing those 11 caps today, put the Tivo back together, and everything powered on and worked perfectly. Thanks for all the information guys!
     
  10. Feb 3, 2015 #390 of 622
    timhbtr53

    timhbtr53 Grumpy Old Man

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    You should be good for a long time now. It sure beats 99 bucks...:) :up:
     
  11. Feb 3, 2015 #391 of 622
    TostitoBandito

    TostitoBandito Active Member

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    Sure was. About $12 for caps and $10 for a crappy high power radio shack soldering iron to desolder since my Weller wasn't able to desolder very effectively.

    I was a bit nervous when I turned it on since this was the first significant PCB soldering I've done and figured I might have at least one bad connection in there, but was pleasantly surprised when I heard everything instantly spin up when I plugged it in.

    I might finally build the OneTesla kit that I've had sitting around for a couple years. :)
     
  12. Feb 4, 2015 #392 of 622
    ScottUrman

    ScottUrman Member

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    I know what you mean, when I did the same surgery on my Series3 power supply a month ago it was the first time I had done any soldering at all. But it really was straightforward, just remember to do one cap at a time so you are sure to be putting the new one in the right spot. Totally worth the effort, and definitely beats the $100 and return shipping from weaknees.
     
  13. Feb 4, 2015 #393 of 622
    timhbtr53

    timhbtr53 Grumpy Old Man

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    If you look at the board after you removed the caps there is print on the board the side that has lines on it the negative side. So if you remove one and can't remember how it goes back in just look for the lines and put the negative there. I have a picture posted with a part list on the page before this one. I take all the caps out first then test them "just for kicks" then I put the new ones in bend the legs down solder then cut the legs off then recheck for any cold solder joints. The more you do the easier it gets. :up:
     
  14. Feb 5, 2015 #394 of 622
    TostitoBandito

    TostitoBandito Active Member

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    Yeah, I was staring at it for a bit wondering how I was going to get them all in the right way when I noticed the hashed markings for the negative posts. Because of that, I ended up just stripping them all out at once so I could desolder and clean all the contacts in one go. Then I installed the new caps one side at a time working my way from the inside out.
     
  15. pfortuna56

    pfortuna56 New Member

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    just wanted to check if the power supply's were interchangeable with models tcd652160 and tcd648250b Im not totally convinced it is the power supply and not the drive Im not technical enough to replace capacitors myself. sorry if this was coverd already I could find anything
     
  16. unitron

    unitron Well-Known Member

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    In the following remarks when I refer to the 652 it also applies, NOT to the 652 predecessor, the 648, but to the model that came out at the same time as the 652, the 658, which was the exact same except for a 1TB hard drive and THX certification. Power supplies for the 652 and 658 may be considered to be the same, since they are.

    There were 2 different models of 652/658 power supply, made by different companies, but the size, shape, mounting holes, cabling, and specs are the same, so they are completely interchangeable.

    _________________________________________________________________

    The 648 and 652 power supplies are not interchangeable on a permanent basis.

    Physically they're swappable, and the pinout of the motherboard connector is the same EXCEPT FOR THE EXTRA 7.5V LINE ON THE 648 SUPPLY!

    We don't know to what, if anything, that particular pin is connected on the 652 motherboard, so we don't know if putting a 649 supply in a 652 would blow anything up or set anything on fire or not.

    You can put a 652 supply in a 648 for testing purposes, and it should run the motherboard and hard drive okay, but not the clock on the front of the 648.

    But as I say, the other way 'round, with a 648 supply in a 652, there's that extra wire that may wind up going someplace it shouldn't.


    If you have experience with using teeny screwdrivers and such to bend teeny prongs on the metal connectors in Molex plugs to remove them temporarily, then you could remove that line and insulate it well with electrical tape, but if you already had the experience and knowledge to do that sort of thing you'd have already compared the 2 supplies and figured all that out on your own.
     
  17. pfortuna56

    pfortuna56 New Member

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    Feb 13, 2015


    Thanks for the reply was able to test it out and it was the power pack
    all back up and running
     
  18. bleech2

    bleech2 Member

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    I purchased a used HD XL (658) and would like to swap out the power supply with one that has new capacitors. The part numbers are the same (SPWR-00011-000) except the one that came with the used unit is a Rev B2, and the one I want to replace it with is a Rev B0. They layouts appear to be identical, but some of the larger components have different numbers (but look identical otherwise).

    Are these power supplies interchangeable?
     
  19. bsporl

    bsporl Member

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    Feb 7, 2006
    Thanks for pulling this list/project together. Just completed my order, and now anxiously wait for the capacitors to arrive.
     
  20. unitron

    unitron Well-Known Member

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    semi-coastal NC
    Did both power supplies come out of either a TCD652160 or a TCD658000?

    If so, they are interchangeable. Even if they're 2 different brands.

    But if one came out of the original Series 3, the TCD648250, the one with the clock display, you'll have to know how to remove the gray wire from the motherboard plug and insulate the end because the 652 (HD) and 658 (HD XL) do not use that 7.5V line and we don't know what it might short to.

    Power supplies from a Series 1, 2, 4, or 5 won't fit and won't have the right connectors.
     
    darklyte likes this.

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