Series 3 Tivo HD Capacitor List

Well done, thanks! Hope I never need it!

 

That 200 V cap is only handling ripple in the 60Hz to 120Hz range, so it's not subjected to the stresses some of the smaller ones are, is probably not even a low ESR cap, and will probably be just fine even if the smaller ones on the +5 and +12 Volt lines are about to explode.

 

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Running into the Power Supply issue on my TiVo HD 652160 (2 noticeably bulged and leaking 1000uF caps). Replaced the entire supply with the one from my second TivoHd and all is fine, so definitely the power supply.

Wanted to say THANKS for this part list (saw it in another thread as well). got the parts on the way, and will solder when they get in. I'll report back on the resolution.

 

I found this post very helpful in finding a capacitor list for my failing tivo.

Any recommendation on a desoldering tool, or which solder wick to get? Also what solder I should get?

I've got two soldering irons and some radio shack solder. Don't know if its good or not.

 

You need at least a 40 Watt iron.

You don't have to use a de-soldering tool or plunger type hand held vacuum pump, but they can help.


Radio Shack, about which I don't usually say nice things, has a de-soldering tool that looks like a soldering iron with a turkey baster attached--it's a rubber squeeze bulb.

That can be used to take out the old caps and maybe even as a soldering iron to install the new ones.

Do not, repeat, do not buy desoldering braid from Radio Shack.

They used to have some stuff that wasn't as good as the name brands, but was usable in a pinch but a few years ago they changed to some truly horrible stuff.

I recently bought this stuff

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=427virtualkey59020000virtualkey590-427

and it's okay.

This

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMuzEnlwMwYUNp/XreKBr04M8Mm3Johdq7E=

would probably be okay as well, I've used Chemtronics braid with good results in the past and might get some more to compare it to the MG from the first link.

And if I were buying MG again, I'd probably get the slightly narrower version of what I got last time.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...=sGAEpiMZZMuzEnlwMwYUNjPliH77aVAz1344fRQ5AFw=


If you buy your caps from Digi-Key instead of Mouser, you should be able to find the same thing there.

I see they also have Multicore brand braid/wick which I've never seen before, but that's been a good solder brand in the past, so their braid is probably good as well.


I've been using a spool of Radio Shack 64-009A solder for a few years now and it's good enough for TiVo PS caps.

But it's probably a lot more than you need, so see if they have the same thing, only fewer feet of it.

.032 dia.
60/40 lead/tin ratio

Do not use anything lead free or the stuff that's 2% Silver for this job--takes more heat.


If you've got some 63/37 on hand, that'll probably be just as good for this.

And the diameter doesn't have to be the same.

JUST MAKE SURE YOU'RE USING ROSIN-CORE SOLDER AND NOT THE ACID-CORE STUFF PLUMBERS USE!!!


If you have the rosin core without the solder around it, that's called flux.

That's Latin for "flow" or something like that, and flux helps melted solder flow.

If you melt some new rosin-core solder into the solder you're trying to remove, it helps to melt it more than just heating it with the iron.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to post my thanks.

I have a TiVo HD with a lifetime subscription, and it started to whine and wouldn't boot. I narrowed it down to the power supply, and then I found this thread. I saw 4 capacitors that were bulging, but none of them were leaking.

I ordered the new caps from Digikey as spelled out by bantar (except the largest cap was no longer in stock, I used 1189-1216-ND instead). After replacing the caps, my TiVo is back up and running.

Once again, thanks for the great info!

Best regards,
Patrick

 

A troubleshooting tip.
I had my series 3 HD TiVo power supply quit. I found this and other forums discussing cap failures and replacement options. I had no leaking or domed caps. Owning a cap checker I decided to find the actual bad cap instead of the shotgun replacement of all caps. This of course works as a rule, but there's the cost and removal and replacement task some may not do well. I own a vacuum solder sucking desoldering iron so removing the caps is a simple no damage operation.
I also own a inexpensive digital cap checker and used it. Removing and measuring all the caps showed normal cap values, no solution. I soldered them all back in for another attrmpt. This time I purchased a inexpensive cap/esr tester. I also read up on how a switching ps works. Since I had no output voltages, this pointed to the transformer input primary oscillator caps, not the transformer secondary filter caps.
Using this logic, I started checking the few input circuit caps. The first 2 checked as normal caps and 1.1 ohm or less esr values. The 3rd cap tested, C9 rated at 100ufd at 25 volts, measured 79 ufd with a esr of 26, yes, 26 ohms instead of a normal 1 ohm range.
So I replaced this cap with a tested normal value cap and the PS took off and worked.
I had a 2.5 ohm resistor on the 5v buss to load it (2 amps) and it read 5v, and 3.3 was there as was 12v.
My next test will be to load the 5v supply with a 1 ohm resistor for a 5 Amp load test for over night.
So yes, counterfeit or normal bulging or leaking caps are a visual indication of failure. But if all looks normal, and you want to know what cap or caps have failed, try a eBay esr cap checker.

I did buy a used ps on eBay ($65) to get my TiVo back up and running again but it's used. I have had 2 reboots since installing it so I my need my repaired one soon? No reboots ever on the original (2008), I unplugged it and it wouldn't start up again. Classic cap issue I believe is repaired.

 

Thanks very much for putting this list together. It made it a lot easier to narrow down the parts. I just made an order with Digi-Key to replace everything except the 200v capacitor.

The list is slightly confusing when I looked at the exact parts.

Any part number starting with a P, is a Panasonic part. Anything starting with a 493- is a Nichicon part. The big 200V one starting with 1189 is a Rubycon part.

I doubled checked all the parts for high ripple and/or low impedance, and these are all good. My initial thought was to go wit all Panasonic parts using their picker- but I really think that Bantar has chosen a better set here.

$17 including shipping. Very helpful. Thanks.

 

BTW, here is a link to a Digi-Key auto-cart. If you take the link, it will create a cart for you, with the correct parts in the correct amounts, and includes the Locations on the board. This is the list that bantar kindly supplied, I just verified the parts and capacitor series, and made it more convenient.

This is for a TiVo HD 652160 power supply: Digi-Key - Fast Add

 

Thanks, bo3bber. Ordered the set last night. In case anyone is wondering, it did come in under the First Class weight limit.

Looking forward to date night with my wife. At her lab bench. For de-soldering and re-soldering.

It's like my parents always told me: "Son, if you're going to survive the capacitor plague, you need to marry a cute Physics professor with patience and steady hands." I thought that was really weird advice, but I'm glad I paid attention.

 

And, of course, it turns out it was a bad drive. The box arrived from DigiKey today with the replacement caps. They go in a nice, cool spot in the basement for when the caps do eventually fail...

 

Thank you for these excellent instructions and bill of materials. My Tivo is now back online for $17 and an hour’s work.

 

I just replaced the HD in my Series3, it still can't boot, and it looks like I may have the capacitor problem as well. I'm reasonably handy, already have a soldering gun, and saw unitron's post above about making sure to rosin core solder, etc.. I've also looked at a couple of YouTube videos on removing capacitors, does anyone here have any other tips or tricks before I dive into this project?

 

Not really other than a solder sucker really helps to remove the solder when pulling the old caps. Let us know how it goes!

Scott

 

Wow. Thanks for that.

It appears that even though it's over a year old everything is still valid.

 

I plan to only change the 2 big capacitors. I worried that changing out the others that aren't bulging is beyond my skill set. (The soldering spot is too close to too much else on the board. I assume I need 2 of these. Is that correct?

Is there another almost as important capacitor I should consider?

This are for C403 & C503, Yes?

‎P12354-ND‎ ‎EEU-FM1A102L‎

CAP ALUM 1000UF 20% 10V RADIAL

 

I would strongly recommend replacing all the ones on the list and not just the couple that are bulging. Your power supply is similar to the one in the S3 OLED (which I have) and I don't recall any real issues with them being too close to another lead to desolder. Maybe take a picture and circle the ones you are concerned about?

Scott

 

It's not about being to close to the other lead of the capacitor. It's being to close to other stuff on the board. There is only about a 1/32 of an inch tolerance in some places. That's a pretty slim margin of error. I assume if the solder doesn't stay on the lead to the capacitor and touches pretty much any other thing metal on the PCB that the PS probably won't work and even worse I could cause more severe damage.

There really isn't a lot of room for any of them.

I've soldered before but nothing with this small of a tolerance. I guess the trick is to barely use any solder.

Because solder is attracted to the heat I guess that must help it avoid getting on any other metal.

ETA: I've watched a couple of videos on soldering on PCBs and it looks like if you mess up you remove the solder and start over so not really that big of a deal.

It looks like it's important to have the right tools.