Is my HDD dead?

Was Spinrite running on a Windows PC? I seem to remember that putting a TiVo into a PC and letting the PC boot Windows XP or later is a very bad idea. Windows overwrites some important (to Tivo) data on the drive.

Maybe someone more knowledgeable can confirm this and say if there is any way to retrieve the situation without re-imaging or losing existing recordings. If not then now is your opportunity to change to the AltEPG image, if you haven't already done so .

Of course the drive may have been kaput before Windows saw it but I've been running one of those Samsungs for years and suffered quite a few power cuts without problems.

 

I'm not sure Gparted is going to show TiVo partitions. Does it know how to read an Apple_Partition_Map in addition to the standard pc type partition table?

You need to look at it with the MFS Live cd v1.4 and run

pdisk -l /dev/whereveryouhookeduptheTiVodrive

(and that's a lowercase L after the hyphen).

You can also run

mfsinfo /dev/whereveryouhookeduptheTiVodrive

and see what that says.

If you're not even getting the "Welcome, powering up" screen, that's not a hard drive problem, because that bitmap is built into the motherboard.

You might need to check your power supply for capacitor disease.

 

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Go to mfslive.org for the iso for the cd.

(or maybe it's the zipfile of the iso)

If you have a replacement power supply, it's simple to swap out the old one.

I'm in North Carolina so I can't speak to UK power supply availability, but you could check the power supply for bad capacitors.

Go to badcaps.net and/or google capacitor disease to learn what signs to look for.

You might be able to replace any bad caps and get the supply working properly again much less expensively than buying a replacement.

On the other hand, with TiVo having discontinued service for Series 1 machines in the UK, you might be able to pick up another machine or 3 to cannibalize cheap or out of the trash.

Try booting the TiVo with the hard drive removed from the machine.

If the power supply is not dead, but ailing, not having the drive trying to pull current may let it supply enough to boot the motherboard.

If you get the Welcome screen that way, then the motherboard is probably still good. Once you get the Welcome screen, you can unplug it, because without a drive that's as far as it's going to go.

If the above does happen, you can try using a computer power supply to supply power for the hard drive and just connect the data cable from the TiVo to it, have the drive already powered before plugging in the TiVo, and if it goes past the Welcome screen to the Few more minutes screen, you've shown that the power supply can no longer power both the board and the drive.

 

Spare PSUs are available
http://www.tivoland.com/spares/index.html
http://www.tivocentral.co.uk/accessories.php

IIRC there is a utility to repair the damage done to a Tivo drive by booting into Windows Make bootable rings a bell?

 

I'm pretty sure SpinRite stills supplies its own operating system from which it boots, so there shouldn't have been any danger from a pre XP Service Pack 2 version of Windows scribbling on the drive (overwriting bootpage) at boot.

The last thing a low-level utility like SpinRite needs is to have any flavor of Windows or DOS getting in the way.

 

The fan not starting does indeed cast suspicion on the PSU. Do you have or can you borrow a multimeter?

 

Safety first! Keep well away form the PSU itself. I think you know that is the board at rear right.

Does the multimeter have probes which will go into the "holes" of the 4 pin power connector for the disk drive?

Is it a digital meter (number display) or an analogue (moving pointer above a scale) one? A digital one and some analogue ones will most likely have a rotary switch to select what you want to measure and the range. Some analogue ones instead do this by having a choice of holes that you plug the test leads into.

You need to set the meter to measure DC volts (DC V or V DC). Not AC volts AC V or V AC), nor any current (A, mA, uA), nor resistance (K, M) etc. And you want the range to be more than 12 volts - ideally 15v or 20v or 25v if the meter has one of those. Some digital meters are 'auto-ranging' - and you only need to select DC voltage.

When you think the meter is set correctly try measuring a newish AA or AAA battery. It should be about 1.5 volts.

Report back if you have success with the above and we'll proceed to the next step. If not, try to answer the questions above.

 

The 5 and 12 volts on the red and yellow wires are what I would expect but the dips you mention are puzzling. Was this with the hard disk drive connected?

Try unplugging both the cachecard and disk drive. Power and 40 way cable out of the drive. You should get the Welcome screen and the voltage rails should be steady.

 

The fan not running could mean a power supply problem or a motherboard problem since the motherboard switches power to the fan, depending on internal temperature sensing.

That meter should have some sort of battery inside to provide current for the resistance measuring function. It's probably very old by now, and you should take it out before it leaks, and put in a new one.

You can operate the other functions of the meter without that battery.

There is a possibility that the meter has 2 batteries, one for the resistance measuring, and another to power a Field Effect Transistor "front end" that let's you get more accurate measurements that don't divert as much current from what you're measuring. You will need that other battery to operate the Voltage and current measurement functions if you have that kind of meter.

If you have to plug the meter into a wall socket to get it to work you have an old vacuum tube meter which will probably still have a separate battery to operate the resistance measuring funtion.

If you've got two batteries, you should probably replace both.

Without seeing it, I'm guessing that ordinarily you put the black lead into the com (common) jack and the red into the

+V
(positive voltage)

Omega

(resisitance)

-A

(current, measured in Amperes, or fractions thereof)

jack.

In addition to those jacks do you have some sort of range selector switch?

If so, describe it.

And while you're at it, give us the brand and model of that meter.

It sounds like it might be a fairly good and originally expensive old one.

The black wires on the 4 pin Molex connector are the ground connectors, the yellow is the +12, and the red is the +5.

The 2 black wires are tied together inside the power supply, so they are at the same potential (O Volts), so you can measure the difference in potential (the voltage) between either the yellow or the red and either one of the black wires.

The meter should have a very high internal resistance (except for the current measuring part, which is beyond your current knowledge and skill), so it puts very little load on the power supply when you measure the power supply's output voltages.

If you don't have the drive connected it may read higher.

If you have the drive connected you may see some fluctuation as the drive draws more or less current from either line, depending on what it's doing and needs electricity for, but a good power supply shouldn't let it drag it down for long by more than about a Volt or less.

I'll try to post back soon with info on what voltage you should be able to read on which wire on the cable assembly that comes off of the power supply and plugs into the socket on the motherboard.

 

do you mind giving an idea of where you are in London?

 

Just a thought which might or might not be relevant. The SCART signals which the TiVo uses to tell the TV to "switch to me" and "I'm using RGB mode" may not be active until the software from the hard disk is running. So you might not see the Welcome screen unless you use the TV's remote to manually select the input that TiVo is connected to and set it to composite instead of RGB.

However, having said that, the symptoms you describe do sound like the PSU is in trouble. But whether the PSU is faulty or the motherboard has a fault which is making it draw too much power is difficult to say. Trying another PSU would be the next logical step if you had one .

You seem to be using the multimeter OK. Just be sure the momentary dips you see are not caused by intermittent connections of the test probes. Give them a good clean if you haven't already done so. Are the dips repeating quite regularly or do they appear to be random. (And the meter gives a steady reading when you measure a battery?)