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Discussion in 'TiVo Bolt DVR/Streamer' started by CIR-Engineering, Feb 10, 2018.
Yeah, 66C, my bad.
Upgraded to a new volt vox 3T, after 1day of use I started to hear a humming noise and the case was hot when I touched it. TIVO you have a design problem here !! the fan is blowing down but there's nowhere for the air to move, a 1/4 inch. Gap at the bottom ain't enough. I put a giant black paper clip under the box so air can move about 1 and 1/2 inchs. high and I noticed a big difference right away .
I don't know if this info will help anyone, but I've had zero problems after upgrading drives and changing fans and then needing to do RMA's for the buzzing from the motherboard issue (and I did break a clip on one!)...just make sure you put the original parts back before you ship! And DO NOT mention that you opened the case and modified it when you call support.
I currently enjoy temps in the 51-56 C range with OTA...My post about my "issue"...sounds like a JET engine taking off!!!
I don't have a Bolt, but I thought I might mention a couple of things that increased cooling on two other TiVo models I owned. Perhaps it will help in your Bolt cooling solutions...
Philips DSR 6000
This box's fan pulled air in from the right-edge bottom of the box, over the internal power supply board, over the main board, through the fan, over the hard drive, then exhausted it out the left-edge bottom of the box. There was at least 16+ inches between the inlet and outlet holes punched in the bottom of the box. The easiest cooling solution that worked? Putting a long folded piece of paper under the middle of the box. Turns out hot air from the outlet holes was moving under the wide box bottom to the inlet holes. A simple piece of paper prevented this airflow so that only cooler room air entered the inlet holes. If I remember correctly, the box cooled down an extra 10 degrees or so.
I have four of these boxes, each on its own shelf in an A/V cabinet that has an open front and an open back with closed sides supporting the shelves. Of my four base Roamios, the 2nd one down always ran 10 to 15 degrees hotter, such that it would occasionally hit a main board temperature of 70, which triggers an over-temperature shutdown that lasts until you power cycle the box.
Inside the base Roamio, the cooling air comes in through inlets in the right side of the box, travels over the main board, through the small fan, over the hard drive, then through the outlets on the left side of the box. There's a largish shallow finned heatsink on the main board with an inch or so of empty air above it. While the fan moved air through the box, it did not specifically move air through the heatsink fins, they only got air convection. I replaced the fan with a higher volume one - no change. I removed the heatsink, cleaned the cpu and heatsink, put some good quality heatsink compound on it, and reinstalled the heatsink - no change. So I cut a piece of corrugated cardboard from an Amazon box, trimmed the back-side edge to fit between the various backside connectors (probably unnecessary) to prevent air infiltration along that edge, trimmed the right-side edge to reach barely past the heatsink fins, folded and trimmed the left side cardboard such that the bottom 3/4 of the fan pulled air from under the card board and the top 1/4 pulled air from above the card board. The front edge was folded down (probably unnecessary) to prevent air infiltration along that edge. I also cut a couple of narrow strips in the middle to fold upwards to press against the box cover to keep the cardboard down against the heatsink fins. This turned the cardboard into a shroud that forced air to be actively pulled through the heatsink fins. I let it run overnight to fully warm up before I checked the main board temperature. The box was now running 10 to 15 degrees cooler than before. I haven't had an over-temperature shutdown on that box since.
Open your Bolts up, analyze the cooling air path, and use something to prevent inlet and outlet air mixing together, plus maximize airflow through any cooling fins.
Quick, cheap, and easy experiment: Cut a triangular piece of cardboard to fill-in the triangular space under the Bolt, position it under the Bolt to block airflow from outlet to inlet, and see if it affects temperature.
That would majorly affect the temperature.
I'm not saying to block the inlet and/or outlet. I'm saying to make and place a triangular cardboard wall in the arch under the Bolt, positioned to prevent warmed exhaust air from being sucked into the air intake. Note that I have not examined a Bolt's airflow myself; I am basing this recommendation on the Bolt airflow description in this thread's first post by CIR_Engineering.
We got one of those USB powered cooled laptop fan/heatsinks and put it under our Tivo Bolt. Temp went down about 5 degrees and some of the bugs we'd been having (skipping/freezes) went away.
I have a usb fan on the way. I plan on directing the air from the fan under the arch of my Bolt+. I hope this will have a positive effect.
See my thread on Documenting my Bolt experiences.... I've done the isolation experiment as an extension to the elevation experiment.
Isolation does make a difference, but not as much as elevating the exhaust end out of the intake plane.
I would go with something that also has a good heat transfer surface. We got one of these. YMMV
In my experience, a wire shelf has provided the best cooling for a Bolt.
That does look good, but I already ordered the 120mm fan. Directed air flow under the arch and it lowered odt from 70c to 55c.
I have always had my Bolt on top of this:
My DVD player is also curved on top, and I had to stack them somehow. The DVD player is underneath but is rarely on. I think the holes help, because that bottle cap trick doesn't work as well for me (1 C drop, not worth it).
All of this is a bit like passing gas into the leather couch and feeling the warmth rise up to your cheeks.
Raise your arse the next time!!