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Old 12-22-2013, 06:42 PM   #1
IRJ
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TIVO HD does not respond to remote

I have a TIVO HD which suddenly is not responding to my remote, or my harmony controller.
I have done a global reset of the remote and I have powered down the TIVO several times. Once it worked for a few minutes then stopped accepting commands.
The Green light is on.
The TIVO unit responds to signals by the secondary yellowish light coming on when the remote buttons are hit. So the problem appears to be on the TIVO unit side.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:29 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IRJ View Post
I have a TIVO HD which suddenly is not responding to my remote, or my harmony controller.
I have done a global reset of the remote and I have powered down the TIVO several times. Once it worked for a few minutes then stopped accepting commands.
The Green light is on.
The TIVO unit responds to signals by the secondary yellowish light coming on when the remote buttons are hit. So the problem appears to be on the TIVO unit side.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
I have not run into that particular problem myself, however the 652, like the rest of the S2s and S3s, is at risk of suffering from "capacitor plague", which means a power supply that doesn't work like it should, even if it hasn't stopped working altogether, and that can lead to all sorts of strange symptoms, so you need to eliminate the power supply as a source of problems as the first step in troubleshooting.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:21 AM   #3
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Do you have your Tivo and remote set up to use a remote code other than zero?

If so, maybe one of them got changed somehow. Reset the Tivo and remote to use code zero.

If that's not it, then it may be time to look "under the hood" as unitron suggested above.
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:40 AM   #4
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Thanks for the suggestions.
How can one identify the particular capacitor which lis likely to fail so that one can replace it?
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:10 AM   #5
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Look for ones bulging like this:
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...94#post8750894
Even a very slight bulge.

The larger ones are most likely to cause problems but you can replace all of them (if you or a friend can solder) for under $20 in parts. This thread provides a parts list:
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...22#post9712622
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:31 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by IRJ View Post
Thanks for the suggestions.
How can one identify the particular capacitor which lis likely to fail so that one can replace it?
If by HD you mean a TCD652160 (and not a TCD648250), be aware it could have either of two different power supply models, so be sure to consult the replacement cap list that's the one for the model you have.

If you've got a 648 (original S3 with the OLED display on the front with a clock), then as far as is known they all use the same model of power supply, which differs from either of the 652/658 supplies.
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Old 12-24-2013, 01:45 PM   #7
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OK I have a model # TCD 652160
I have opened the casing and inspected the capacitors, but find no signs of any bulging. This is actually quite disappointing as it leaves me directionless. Unless of course I try a Hail Mary and anyways replace ALL the capacitors even though they look good. Usually I like to leave well alone. So now I am stymied as to what to do next!
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Old 12-24-2013, 03:51 PM   #8
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OK I have a model # TCD 652160
I have opened the casing and inspected the capacitors, but find no signs of any bulging. This is actually quite disappointing as it leaves me directionless. Unless of course I try a Hail Mary and anyways replace ALL the capacitors even though they look good. Usually I like to leave well alone. So now I am stymied as to what to do next!
Well, you can get a voltmeter and check the plug from the power supply onto the motherboard.

The way you do it is to hook the meter's negative lead (should be black) to the chassis on the side away from the power supply--either alligator clip it or friction fit it into a hole or cutout.

Then set the meter for DC, range 0-20 V (or 25 or 50, depending on what the meter's options are), and stick the positive probe (should be the red wire coming from the meter) down into the various holes in the plug on the motherboard with all the wires that go back to the power supply.

You don't need to test the black wires, those are DC ground, just like the chassis. The yellow is supposed to be +12V, the red +5V, and the orange +3.3V., and all the wires that are the same color are in parallel with each other, so measuring one red one, for example, is measuring all of them.

Try it with the combo data/power cable plugged into the back of the hard drive, and with it unplugged, to see if there's much variation in the voltage regulation when the load changes.

You're very unlikely to get exactly 12 and exactly 5 and exactly 3.3, but it should be close, like within a half a Volt or so above or below, and it shouldn't be very different with or without the hard drive drawing power.

And remember the first rule of opening up a TiVo

ALWAYS KNOW WHERE BOTH ENDS OF THE POWER CORD ARE AT ALL TIMES!

There's exposed high voltage on the power supply itself, so keep your hands no nearer to it than the plug on the motherboard, and it's best if you hold the red probe with one hand and keep the other hand in your pocket.

As for the idea of replacing all of the caps (You don't need to worry about the very biggest one that's rated at 200V, it doesn't work very hard, and the little ones are probably fine too, it's just the medium sized ones clustered around the heat sinks where there's likely to be one or more bad ones sooner or later), you can think of it as doing it now and saving yourself the trouble of doing it later.

And while you have the TiVo open anyway, you can take the hard drive bracket out with the drive on it, hook the drive to a PC, and boot the PC with a cd with the drive maker's diagnostic software on it and run the long test on the drive to see if it's likely to give trouble anytime soon.
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Old 12-24-2013, 08:44 PM   #9
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Thanks Unitron.
Sounds like I will have my hands full soon after Christmas Thanks for the terrific advice.
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