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Old 11-10-2014, 01:39 PM   #1
Heie
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Tivo Series 3 HD OLED 250GB Broken

TiVo Community,

I need to fix my TiVo series 3 HD. This is model number: TCD648250B

I have done as much testing as I possibly could and will include the details below.

Prior to the issue, I was watching TV and the show paused, the screen turned odd colors (pink and other random colors) then the Tivo had to be unplugged because it was completely unresponsive.

I turned the Tivo on and all four lights on the box lit up.

The tivo was stuck in a continous resetting loop.

I have taken the TiVo apart and the HardDrive is already out.
The power supply passes visual inspection.

I believe it is the harddrive based on everything I read, and the fact that the screen displayed the odd colors and the pause that it did.


I am looking for the best / cheapest route to fixing the TiVo.

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Old 11-10-2014, 07:17 PM   #2
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If it is indeed the hard drive (and not the power supply) the repair is as easy as purchasing a new hard drive and restoring an image onto it with WinMFS. I can PM you a link to my OLED S3 image (11.0h software).

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Old 11-11-2014, 02:02 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heie View Post
TiVo Community,

I need to fix my TiVo series 3 HD. This is model number: TCD648250B

I have done as much testing as I possibly could and will include the details below.

Prior to the issue, I was watching TV and the show paused, the screen turned odd colors (pink and other random colors) then the Tivo had to be unplugged because it was completely unresponsive.

I turned the Tivo on and all four lights on the box lit up.

The tivo was stuck in a continous resetting loop.

I have taken the TiVo apart and the HardDrive is already out.
The power supply passes visual inspection.

I believe it is the harddrive based on everything I read, and the fact that the screen displayed the odd colors and the pause that it did.


I am looking for the best / cheapest route to fixing the TiVo.
Do you have a PC that you can hook the drive up to?

Is it the original 250GB drive?

There's still a chance that the power supply has a problem, or that both the drive and the power supply have problems.

Do you know anybody who has a voltmeter?

There's also a slim chance that the TiVo motherboard itself is going bad.

The thing to do here is find out what the problem is before spending any money.

We can help you do that.

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Old 11-11-2014, 08:19 AM   #4
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Did the "visual inspection" of the power supply include closely examining each electrolytic capacitor (the metal "cans") for even very slight bulging of the tops?

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Old 11-11-2014, 10:05 AM   #5
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A visual inspection is only good to show obvious problems. Some still work after a cap vents, but there are many times where folks find it has failed without visual evidence.

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Old 11-11-2014, 10:52 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrtroo View Post
A visual inspection is only good to show obvious problems. Some still work after a cap vents, but there are many times where folks find it has failed without visual evidence.
Correct. If an electrolytic capacitor dries out inside, due to a faulty seal, or damage when installed, or any other number of reasons, there will be no (or insufficient) electrolyte inside, to create the gasses, which would create the visual signs of failing/failure. This is just one of many weaknesses found in electrolytics. They can be just as bad/failing/failed without visual indications, as they can be with them.

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Old 11-11-2014, 03:41 PM   #7
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Alright - What is the best way to be exactly sure whether it is the power supply or not?

I am out of town but can do a more comprehensive test on the power supply when I get back home. I will be home Thursday.

That being said - I was lucky enough to win a Weaknees 1 TB Tivo Series 3 OLED HD from Ebay for $72. It is claimed working so I am protected under Ebays Buyer Protection policy incase it does not. When it arrives I will first boot it up and verify it is working, then I can test it in my TiVo.

If that does not work, ironically I also have a working power supply in same said TiVo. I figured $72 was not bad for both of these replacement parts. as I can likely sell whichever is not needed, or save in-case I eventually do need it.

Please do let me know how I should best proceed.

Thanks,
Heie

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Old 11-11-2014, 03:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heie View Post
I am looking for the best / cheapest route to fixing the TiVo.
Where are you located?

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Old 11-12-2014, 06:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heie View Post
Alright - What is the best way to be exactly sure whether it is the power supply or not?

I am out of town but can do a more comprehensive test on the power supply when I get back home. I will be home Thursday.

That being said - I was lucky enough to win a Weaknees 1 TB Tivo Series 3 OLED HD from Ebay for $72. It is claimed working so I am protected under Ebays Buyer Protection policy incase it does not. When it arrives I will first boot it up and verify it is working, then I can test it in my TiVo.

If that does not work, ironically I also have a working power supply in same said TiVo. I figured $72 was not bad for both of these replacement parts. as I can likely sell whichever is not needed, or save in-case I eventually do need it.

Please do let me know how I should best proceed.

Thanks,
Heie

Worst case scenario, if your current 648 is lifetimed, and the motherboard is bad, someone who knows how to solder and de-solder Surface Mount Devices can move the crypto chip to the new motherboard, which will move the TiVo Service Number, and the lifetime sub is tied to that number.


How to test the power supply in your current TiVo.

THE FIRST RULE IS KNOW WHERE BOTH ENDS OF THE TIVO'S POWER CORD ARE AT ALL TIMES.!!!

The best way is to connect and disconnect the power with the wall socket plug end of the power cord, and not the end that plugs into the back of the TiVo.

If the wall socket is hard to get to, use an extension cord, or better yet an outlet strip, especially one with a switch if you have it.

The idea is to be able to quickly disconnect power if necessary without having to touch the TiVo chassis itself.

Remember, the TiVo power supply, once you remove the what you have to remove to see the innards, is no longer shielded from accidental contact with the 120 V AC part of it.

Position the opened TiVo with the front facing you so that the power supply is to your right and the hard drive location to your left.

But first, since it's a SATA drive you can't safely test the power with a voltmeter at the hard drive power plug like you could with the older PATA drives in S1s and S2s.

So, the cable bundle from the power supply that plugs into the motherboard will have to do.

You need a voltmeter, set on DC Volts. The available range settings will depend on what brand and model it is, but all the ranges start at 0 Volts and go up.

If it has a 0-15 V range, use that one. If the lowest upper limit is 25V, use that one. You want to know in advance what voltage level you should be getting and select a range which has an upper end higher than that anticipated voltage.

The voltmeter will probably have a black test lead, which will plug into a jack labeled common or negative, and a red lead plugged into one labeled positive.

It may also have wording associated with the ohmmeter function of the meter, which is for measuring resistance, and you want to not have the meter function switch set to that (or to current/amperage, either AC or DC, or to AC Volts)

If there's an alligator clamp on the end of the black lead, use that to connect the black lead to the metal chassis on the left side (the side the power supply is not on.

If there's just a "needle" probe at the end of the black lead you can wedge it into one of the cutouts on the chassis.

There's a bunch of wires that come off of the power supply board and end in a plug that plugs into a socket on the motherboard.

What you'll do is take the red lead from the meter and stick the metal probe tip down into one of the holes in the plug where a wire goes into it until you contact the metal terminal on the end of the wire.

You want to check a yellow wire for +12 V DC and a red wire for +5 V.

Those are the two most likely to be "off" if there's something wrong, and those are the two outputs also used by the hard drive.

All the wires of the same color connect to the same place on the power supply board and are therefore electrically the same.

The black wires from the power supply are the ground connections which are the other, common, point between which you measure voltages.

The orange wire(s) are supposed to measure 3.3V and there's a white or gray wire on the 648 supply which is for the OLED display and I think it's supposed to be 7.5 V.

Check the 5 and the 12 both with the hard drive connected and with it disconnected. There shouldn't be very much difference in the readings.

You probably won't get exactly 12 V or exactly 5 V, but each should be well within half a Volt.

It's best to take the measurements with the red test lead held in one hand, preferably the right, and the other hand in your pocket where it won't accidentally touch any part of the TiVo or anything else grounded.

Also, don't be wearing anything that could sag or fall into the TiVo when you lean over it making the measurements, like necklaces, neckties, et cetera.

If you're wearing long sleeves, roll them up. Take off rings, watches, braclets, and such.

Think out and visualize your actions first and try to anticipate what might go wrong so as to take steps to avoid it.

Do a "dry run" without the TiVo power cord plugged in until you're comfortable that you're going to be able to do things correctly and not accidentally pull the black lead loose or something like that.

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Old 11-12-2014, 06:27 PM   #10
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If you wind up swapping power supplies between the TiVos, all of the Series 3 models have, in addition to the #10 Torx driver screws holding the power supply circuit board down to the chassis, a small, black, screw that goes in from the outside on the back into the plastic that's the top of the AC input jack.

For that you'll need a #8 or #9 Torx bit.

And you'll need to remember it's there so you don't try to lift the power supply circuit board with it still in and wind up breaking something.

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Old 11-13-2014, 09:41 AM   #11
Teeps
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Wow Unitron,
This is good. So good I'm bookmarking it for future use.
It reminds me of how we had to write service procedure at work... for "Professional Technicians" (I use that term loosly.)



Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
Worst case scenario, if your current 648 is lifetimed, and the motherboard is bad, someone who knows how to solder and de-solder Surface Mount Devices can move the crypto chip to the new motherboard, which will move the TiVo Service Number, and the lifetime sub is tied to that number.


How to test the power supply in your current TiVo.

THE FIRST RULE IS KNOW WHERE BOTH ENDS OF THE TIVO'S POWER CORD ARE AT ALL TIMES.!!!

The best way is to connect and disconnect the power with the wall socket plug end of the power cord, and not the end that plugs into the back of the TiVo.

If the wall socket is hard to get to, use an extension cord, or better yet an outlet strip, especially one with a switch if you have it.

The idea is to be able to quickly disconnect power if necessary without having to touch the TiVo chassis itself.

Remember, the TiVo power supply, once you remove the what you have to remove to see the innards, is no longer shielded from accidental contact with the 120 V AC part of it.

Position the opened TiVo with the front facing you so that the power supply is to your right and the hard drive location to your left.

But first, since it's a SATA drive you can't safely test the power with a voltmeter at the hard drive power plug like you could with the older PATA drives in S1s and S2s.

So, the cable bundle from the power supply that plugs into the motherboard will have to do.

You need a voltmeter, set on DC Volts. The available range settings will depend on what brand and model it is, but all the ranges start at 0 Volts and go up.

If it has a 0-15 V range, use that one. If the lowest upper limit is 25V, use that one. You want to know in advance what voltage level you should be getting and select a range which has an upper end higher than that anticipated voltage.

The voltmeter will probably have a black test lead, which will plug into a jack labeled common or negative, and a red lead plugged into one labeled positive.

It may also have wording associated with the ohmmeter function of the meter, which is for measuring resistance, and you want to not have the meter function switch set to that (or to current/amperage, either AC or DC, or to AC Volts)

If there's an alligator clamp on the end of the black lead, use that to connect the black lead to the metal chassis on the left side (the side the power supply is not on.

If there's just a "needle" probe at the end of the black lead you can wedge it into one of the cutouts on the chassis.

There's a bunch of wires that come off of the power supply board and end in a plug that plugs into a socket on the motherboard.

What you'll do is take the red lead from the meter and stick the metal probe tip down into one of the holes in the plug where a wire goes into it until you contact the metal terminal on the end of the wire.

You want to check a yellow wire for +12 V DC and a red wire for +5 V.

Those are the two most likely to be "off" if there's something wrong, and those are the two outputs also used by the hard drive.

All the wires of the same color connect to the same place on the power supply board and are therefore electrically the same.

The black wires from the power supply are the ground connections which are the other, common, point between which you measure voltages.

The orange wire(s) are supposed to measure 3.3V and there's a white or gray wire on the 648 supply which is for the OLED display and I think it's supposed to be 7.5 V.

Check the 5 and the 12 both with the hard drive connected and with it disconnected. There shouldn't be very much difference in the readings.

You probably won't get exactly 12 V or exactly 5 V, but each should be well within half a Volt.

It's best to take the measurements with the red test lead held in one hand, preferably the right, and the other hand in your pocket where it won't accidentally touch any part of the TiVo or anything else grounded.

Also, don't be wearing anything that could sag or fall into the TiVo when you lean over it making the measurements, like necklaces, neckties, et cetera.

If you're wearing long sleeves, roll them up. Take off rings, watches, braclets, and such.

Think out and visualize your actions first and try to anticipate what might go wrong so as to take steps to avoid it.

Do a "dry run" without the TiVo power cord plugged in until you're comfortable that you're going to be able to do things correctly and not accidentally pull the black lead loose or something like that.

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Old 11-17-2014, 02:15 PM   #12
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Power Supply Question

I have a 648 series and am pretty certain the power supply has gone. are the 648 series and 649 series power supplies the same/switchable?

edit: was just reading more info on capacitors, and saw a posting that 648, and 652, etc have different power supplies. so I think I would be safe in thinking that 648 and 649 are different as well.

I will put my unworking 648 aside for the time being, and will look into capacitor replacement on that unit.


Last edited by rainbow; 11-17-2014 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 11-18-2014, 08:14 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rainbow View Post
I have a 648 series and am pretty certain the power supply has gone. are the 648 series and 649 series power supplies the same/switchable?

edit: was just reading more info on capacitors, and saw a posting that 648, and 652, etc have different power supplies. so I think I would be safe in thinking that 648 and 649 are different as well.

I will put my unworking 648 aside for the time being, and will look into capacitor replacement on that unit.
As far as I know the 649 (Series 2 Dual Tuner) power supply is not electrically compatible with any other model, although it physically probably fits where a 540 or 240 supply does.

You can use a supply from the later model Series 3s, the 652 and the 658 (which can use each other's supplies) to test a 648 (just don't expect a normal front panel as they lack the extra 7.5V DC output the 648 has just for that, but DO NOT put a 648 supply into a 652 or 658, 'cause we don't know what that extra output will make contact with on a motherboard that's not designed to use it.


When removing a Series 3 power supply, watch out for the screw on the back outside.

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Old 11-25-2014, 01:53 AM   #14
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I tried using two different 652 power supplies in my 648 when I was having power supply issues and could never get past the first tivo screen. Another tivo community member, timhbtr53, was able to replace the capacitors on my 648 power supply and that fixed the problem.

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Old 02-03-2015, 04:47 PM   #15
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Please send me a link to the download images if anyone has one.

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Old 02-03-2015, 07:08 PM   #16
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PM sent.

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Old 02-03-2015, 09:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heie View Post
Please send me a link to the download images if anyone has one.
Chances are the image links you've been PM'ed are for images I created.

I'm telling you that to establish my bona fides for this next bit.

If you use a larger hard drive than the original 250GB (and you'll do a lot better on a GB/$ basis if you do), remember, whether using WinMFS or the MFS Live cd v1.4, restore the image, check it with

mfsinfo

and only then do the expansion with

mfsadd

regardless of what the instructions tell you.

Just take my word for it that you'll increase your chances of success doing it the way I advise.

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Old 02-04-2015, 07:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
Chances are the image links you've been PM'ed are for images I created.
Actually, no, it was my own. But yes, it was still a WinMFS image.

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Old 02-05-2015, 10:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by windracer View Post
Actually, no, it was my own. But yes, it was still a WinMFS image.
Lots of the people who provide links to others for images are using the ones I posted previously in the "Need an image: Don't PM me" thread.

I don't mind a bit, I just claimed possible authorship to establish credibility for my advice about expanding as a later separate step.

Which advice holds regardless of whether one is using WinMFS or the MFS Live cd, v1.4


But I wasn't trying to take any credit away from you.

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Old 02-27-2015, 03:37 PM   #20
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My series 3 just died. I foolishly bought InstantCake. It appears to work then locks up after

Just hit <enter> will begin baking your InstantCake!

a couple of lines. Last Line

sd 2:0:0:0: Attached scsi removable disk sda

after a few minutes the screen goes blank.

I have a 250GB drive that I want to replace mine with. I am looking for an Image for a 250G Model 6480250B.

Any assistance either with InstantCake or an image I could use would be appreciated.

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Old 02-28-2015, 11:52 AM   #21
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If you go to the TiVo Upgrade Center forum, there's a thread on images (which may already have links to the one you need).

Scott

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Old 03-04-2015, 08:52 PM   #22
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Here is a pic

Of the test points for all the DC voltages test points. Hope this helps.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg TCD648250B P-S layout.jpg (56.5 KB, 40 views)
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:23 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timhbtr53 View Post
Of the test points for all the DC voltages test points. Hope this helps.
I hate to be in disagreement with you, but testing voltages on the circuit board itself is not a good idea.

(Yeah, you or I could get away with it if we absolutely had to, but most of these folks don't have years of experience with meters and live circuits, any more than they do with soldering irons)

Even with the meter's ground lead connected to the chassis elsewhere, too much chance of the + lead slipping and shorting something, plus it puts one hand entirely too close to the unshielded high AC and DC voltages on the board.

Better to clip the negative lead to the chassis on the side farthest away from the power supply, and then insert the + lead into a hole in the plug in the socket on the motherboard until it contacts the metal end crimped onto the wire.

That way, it's too far down the hole for the exposed metal probe tip of the meter lead to contact anything else conductive and short anything to anything, and you can hold the meter lead in one hand and stick the other hand in your pocket so you don't accidentally provide a current path across your chest.

Also one's body should be away from the circuit board so that the arm and hand holding the + meter lead are closer to it than any other part of the body.

It's a good picture for finding the capacitors, though.

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Old 03-05-2015, 09:31 PM   #24
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Good Point unitron

Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
I hate to be in disagreement with you, but testing voltages on the circuit board itself is not a good idea.

(Yeah, you or I could get away with it if we absolutely had to, but most of these folks don't have years of experience with meters and live circuits, any more than they do with soldering irons)

Even with the meter's ground lead connected to the chassis elsewhere, too much chance of the + lead slipping and shorting something, plus it puts one hand entirely too close to the unshielded high AC and DC voltages on the board.

Better to clip the negative lead to the chassis on the side farthest away from the power supply, and then insert the + lead into a hole in the plug in the socket on the motherboard until it contacts the metal end crimped onto the wire.

That way, it's too far down the hole for the exposed metal probe tip of the meter lead to contact anything else conductive and short anything to anything, and you can hold the meter lead in one hand and stick the other hand in your pocket so you don't accidentally provide a current path across your chest.

Also one's body should be away from the circuit board so that the arm and hand holding the + meter lead are closer to it than any other part of the body.

It's a good picture for finding the capacitors, though.
I did not think about that. I have done so many I have a test bed with a system board and made a long jumper from P/S to main board so I can put it in my test oven. I like to run them for 24 hours @115F just to make sure but yes this could make your life VERY short... Thanks for pointing that out.


Last edited by timhbtr53; 03-06-2015 at 05:28 PM.
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Old 03-12-2015, 03:56 AM   #25
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Welcome Powering up loop

Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
Worst case scenario, if your current 648 is lifetimed, and the motherboard is bad, someone who knows how to solder and de-solder Surface Mount Devices can move the crypto chip to the new motherboard, which will move the TiVo Service Number, and the lifetime sub is tied to that number.


How to test the power supply in your current TiVo.

THE FIRST RULE IS KNOW WHERE BOTH ENDS OF THE TIVO'S POWER CORD ARE AT ALL TIMES.!!!

The best way is to connect and disconnect the power with the wall socket plug end of the power cord, and not the end that plugs into the back of the TiVo.

If the wall socket is hard to get to, use an extension cord, or better yet an outlet strip, especially one with a switch if you have it.

The idea is to be able to quickly disconnect power if necessary without having to touch the TiVo chassis itself.

Remember, the TiVo power supply, once you remove the what you have to remove to see the innards, is no longer shielded from accidental contact with the 120 V AC part of it.

Position the opened TiVo with the front facing you so that the power supply is to your right and the hard drive location to your left.

But first, since it's a SATA drive you can't safely test the power with a voltmeter at the hard drive power plug like you could with the older PATA drives in S1s and S2s.

So, the cable bundle from the power supply that plugs into the motherboard will have to do.

You need a voltmeter, set on DC Volts. The available range settings will depend on what brand and model it is, but all the ranges start at 0 Volts and go up.

If it has a 0-15 V range, use that one. If the lowest upper limit is 25V, use that one. You want to know in advance what voltage level you should be getting and select a range which has an upper end higher than that anticipated voltage.

The voltmeter will probably have a black test lead, which will plug into a jack labeled common or negative, and a red lead plugged into one labeled positive.

It may also have wording associated with the ohmmeter function of the meter, which is for measuring resistance, and you want to not have the meter function switch set to that (or to current/amperage, either AC or DC, or to AC Volts)

If there's an alligator clamp on the end of the black lead, use that to connect the black lead to the metal chassis on the left side (the side the power supply is not on.

If there's just a "needle" probe at the end of the black lead you can wedge it into one of the cutouts on the chassis.

There's a bunch of wires that come off of the power supply board and end in a plug that plugs into a socket on the motherboard.

What you'll do is take the red lead from the meter and stick the metal probe tip down into one of the holes in the plug where a wire goes into it until you contact the metal terminal on the end of the wire.

You want to check a yellow wire for +12 V DC and a red wire for +5 V.

Those are the two most likely to be "off" if there's something wrong, and those are the two outputs also used by the hard drive.

All the wires of the same color connect to the same place on the power supply board and are therefore electrically the same.

The black wires from the power supply are the ground connections which are the other, common, point between which you measure voltages.

The orange wire(s) are supposed to measure 3.3V and there's a white or gray wire on the 648 supply which is for the OLED display and I think it's supposed to be 7.5 V.

Check the 5 and the 12 both with the hard drive connected and with it disconnected. There shouldn't be very much difference in the readings.

You probably won't get exactly 12 V or exactly 5 V, but each should be well within half a Volt.

It's best to take the measurements with the red test lead held in one hand, preferably the right, and the other hand in your pocket where it won't accidentally touch any part of the TiVo or anything else grounded.

Also, don't be wearing anything that could sag or fall into the TiVo when you lean over it making the measurements, like necklaces, neckties, et cetera.

If you're wearing long sleeves, roll them up. Take off rings, watches, braclets, and such.

Think out and visualize your actions first and try to anticipate what might go wrong so as to take steps to avoid it.

Do a "dry run" without the TiVo power cord plugged in until you're comfortable that you're going to be able to do things correctly and not accidentally pull the black lead loose or something like that.
Wow! Thank you for all the great information. I am wondering if the capacitors could still be a problem even if the meter readings fall in line to what you listed in your information. yellow wire is giving me 11.65 and the red wire is giving me 5.0 and the grey wire is giving me 7.5. These are with the hard drive connected. Most of the capacitors seem flat or almost concave on top, but I have 3 that seem to maybe have a slight bump or rounding on the top. I first thought it was a hard drive problem and tried to replace the old WD10earx green with a new WD10rfrx red (not pro). I used instantcake to load the TCD48250B image. That didn't change my problem. I now don't know if the hard drive or the power supply are functioning. If you have anymore things I should look at I would appreciate your help.
Thanks

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Old 03-12-2015, 08:37 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by icunmypc View Post
Wow! Thank you for all the great information. I am wondering if the capacitors could still be a problem even if the meter readings fall in line to what you listed in your information. yellow wire is giving me 11.65 and the red wire is giving me 5.0 and the grey wire is giving me 7.5. These are with the hard drive connected. Most of the capacitors seem flat or almost concave on top, but I have 3 that seem to maybe have a slight bump or rounding on the top. I first thought it was a hard drive problem and tried to replace the old WD10earx green with a new WD10rfrx red (not pro). I used instantcake to load the TCD48250B image. That didn't change my problem. I now don't know if the hard drive or the power supply are functioning. If you have anymore things I should look at I would appreciate your help.
Thanks

That 12 Volt line is a little on the low side, especially considering that the 7.5 and 5 aren't proportionally lower than nominal as well (I assume the orange wire was right at 3.3V)


Even if every electrolytic capacitor is absolutely flat on top, one or more can still be going bad, but if they show the slightest sign of not being just as flat as you want a pool table to be, you can be sure they need replacing.

There's a parts list for the 648 somewhere about half way through this thread

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...d.php?t=473394


as well as discussion about why you need low ESR caps rated for 105 degrees C.


If you search that thread for the words "turkey baster" you'll find some advice on soldering and unsoldering that might come in handy.

Until you get that power supply squared away, you won't know if you have any other problem or not, and you sure won't be able to reliably troubleshoot it.

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Old 03-14-2015, 06:41 PM   #27
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I finally completed replacing the capacitors in my Series 3 TCD648250B and my new reading on the red wire is 12.3 (was 11.65) location 401 and 402 called for 2200uf 6.3, but I used 2200uf 25v since that is all the local Frys had on hand. Seems to work fine. I did have to go back to my original hard drive because the 1TB WD10EFRX RED (not pro) didn't bake correctly with instant cake. When I tried to boot with it installed I received an error message. "The DRV has detected a serious problem and is now attempting to fix it. This will take about 3 hours. Please do not unplug or restart the dvr! It then reboots and does the same thing. Since my WD10EARX loaded fine now that the power supply is fixed, I will worry about the new drive later. Thank you to all of you that post information about these Tivo issues and tips. My Lifetime tivo has new life.

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Old 03-15-2015, 08:25 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by icunmypc View Post
I finally completed replacing the capacitors in my Series 3 TCD648250B and my new reading on the red wire is 12.3 (was 11.65) location 401 and 402 called for 2200uf 6.3, but I used 2200uf 25v since that is all the local Frys had on hand. Seems to work fine. I did have to go back to my original hard drive because the 1TB WD10EFRX RED (not pro) didn't bake correctly with instant cake. When I tried to boot with it installed I received an error message. "The DRV has detected a serious problem and is now attempting to fix it. This will take about 3 hours. Please do not unplug or restart the dvr! It then reboots and does the same thing. Since my WD10EARX loaded fine now that the power supply is fixed, I will worry about the new drive later. Thank you to all of you that post information about these Tivo issues and tips. My Lifetime tivo has new life.

Whenever you put a drive in a TiVo that has an image on it that was made on a different TiVo (not different model, but physically a different unit of the same model), the image has a record of the TiVo Service Number of the TiVo motherboard to which was connected the drive from which the image was backed up.

Since every TiVo has a unique TSN, your TiVo motherboard will have a TSN that's different from the one the new image has.

The TiVo has to go through that whole "fixing a serious problem" thing to marry the drive to the motherboard so that no recordings that were made on a different TiVo can be viewed on your TiVo.

When it gets done, you have to go through Guided Setup.


After you do, suggest you make a backup of it with WinMFS or the MFS Live cd or both, so that you'll have one that has the right TSN and all of your settings.

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Old 02-12-2016, 09:42 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icunmypc View Post
I finally completed replacing the capacitors in my Series 3 TCD648250B and my new reading on the red wire is 12.3 (was 11.65) location 401 and 402 called for 2200uf 6.3, but I used 2200uf 25v since that is all the local Frys had on hand. Seems to work fine. I did have to go back to my original hard drive because the 1TB WD10EFRX RED (not pro) didn't bake correctly with instant cake. When I tried to boot with it installed I received an error message. "The DRV has detected a serious problem and is now attempting to fix it. This will take about 3 hours. Please do not unplug or restart the dvr! It then reboots and does the same thing. Since my WD10EARX loaded fine now that the power supply is fixed, I will worry about the new drive later. Thank you to all of you that post information about these Tivo issues and tips. My Lifetime tivo has new life.
did you have a problem with the WD10EFRX drive for a specific reason? They have some good prices currently at Microcenter, but I'm unclear if you'd be able to use one in a TiVo HD.
thanks

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Old 02-12-2016, 01:57 PM   #30
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did you have a problem with the WD10EFRX drive for a specific reason? They have some good prices currently at Microcenter, but I'm unclear if you'd be able to use one in a TiVo HD.
thanks
Other TiVo-ists have reported success with WD Reds, so I suspect the problem may have been due to the use of Instant Cake, which doesn't seem to have been kept up to date these past several years.

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