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Old 03-15-2013, 08:55 AM   #1
drhoads
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Reboot Problems on (2) TCD658000 HD XL DVR

I already checked my capacitors on both units. They look fine. I replaced both hard drives with WD AV-GP 1 TB AV Hard Drives. I still get random reboots and most of the time freezes on boot screen.

It seems to happen when watching off the hard drive with already recorded material or the 30 minute buffer.

I tried all of the kickstarts already.

My input signals are in the mid to high 70s. I only use OTA. No Cable.

Thanks for any help.

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Old 03-15-2013, 09:38 AM   #2
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Looking fine is not the same as being fine. Have you tested your voltages?

I believe you are watching the buffer even if watching live.

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Old 03-15-2013, 09:51 AM   #3
drhoads
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Originally Posted by jrtroo View Post
Looking fine is not the same as being fine. Have you tested your voltages?

I believe you are watching the buffer even if watching live.
I have not checked the voltages. Is there a link that someone has added that shows the process of what to check for and where?

I am very skilled and capable of taking it apart and soldering.

Thanks!

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Old 03-17-2013, 08:57 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhoads View Post
I have not checked the voltages. Is there a link that someone has added that shows the process of what to check for and where?

I am very skilled and capable of taking it apart and soldering.

Thanks!
Ever use a voltmeter?

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Old 03-17-2013, 09:56 PM   #5
drhoads
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Ever use a voltmeter?
1000 times. Why? Without knowing what to look for (i.e. voltages at what points) is does nothing for me.

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Old 03-17-2013, 10:24 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by drhoads View Post
1000 times. Why? Without knowing what to look for (i.e. voltages at what points) is does nothing for me.
I need to know at what level to aim my answer.

If you can alligator clip the negative lead of the meter to the chassis on the side away from the power supply, that'll do fine for a ground connection.

Then you just take the positive lead and go the plug that goes to the motherboard and stick it down in the necessary hole to backprobe.

Yellow wire = +12V

Red wire = +5 V

Orange wire = +3.3.V

Black wire = 0 V, i.e., ground.

Where there's more than one wire of a particular color, they're tied together back at the power supply circuit board.

Test it with both the hard drive harness plugged into the drive and with it out.

Results should be similar both ways and should be within a few tenths of a Volt of "official" voltages.

If you have a problem it's almost certain to be the 12 or the 5 or both.

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Old 03-18-2013, 10:43 AM   #7
drhoads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
I need to know at what level to aim my answer.
I understand.

I took the two units apart on Saturday (before your reply) and inspected the power supplies again on both units. Visually they look perfect. I understand that this is not a true indicator.

One unit was resetting itself about 2-3 times a day. The other unit only did it twice in about a week period. So I decided to swap the power supplies to see if the problem followed the PS. It's been almost two days now and neither unit has rebooted yet. Go figure!

If the problem shows up again then I will trouble shoot the voltages.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.


Last edited by drhoads; 03-18-2013 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 03-18-2013, 02:51 PM   #8
L David Matheny
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhoads View Post
I understand.

I took the two units apart on Saturday (before your reply) and inspected the power supplies again on both units. Visually they look perfect. I understand that this is not a true indicator.

One unit was resetting itself about 2-3 times a day. The other unit only did it twice in about a week period. So I decided to swap the power supplies to see if the problem followed the PS. It's been almost two days now and neither unit has rebooted yet. Go figure!

If the problem shows up again then I will trouble shoot the voltages.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.
That sounds almost like some power connectors were not securely connected or the contacts were corroded. Let us know what happens.

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Old 03-18-2013, 02:54 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by L David Matheny View Post
That sounds almost like some power connectors were not securely connected or the contacts were corroded. Let us know what happens.
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe unplugging and plugging back in the connector to the MB (bad connections)???

I hope that's all it is!

I'll be back if it's not

Thanks!!!

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Old 03-23-2013, 05:31 PM   #10
drhoads
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drhoads View Post
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe unplugging and plugging back in the connector to the MB (bad connections)???

I hope that's all it is!

I'll be back if it's not

Thanks!!!
It's been a week and both units have NOT reset.

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Old 03-27-2013, 12:47 PM   #11
John Wilson
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Smile Official Voltages?

Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
I need to know at what level to aim my answer.

If you can alligator clip the negative lead of the meter to the chassis on the side away from the power supply, that'll do fine for a ground connection.

Then you just take the positive lead and go the plug that goes to the motherboard and stick it down in the necessary hole to backprobe.

Yellow wire = +12V

Red wire = +5 V

Orange wire = +3.3.V

Black wire = 0 V, i.e., ground.

Where there's more than one wire of a particular color, they're tied together back at the power supply circuit board.

Test it with both the hard drive harness plugged into the drive and with it out.

Results should be similar both ways and should be within a few tenths of a Volt of "official" voltages.

If you have a problem it's almost certain to be the 12 or the 5 or both.
"official" voltages:

Can you elaborate on what these "official" voltages should be? Are they stated in another thread? I have a wonky S3 OLED that has had "some" of the caps replaced but I'm guessing there might be more to it.

Thanks for your help.

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Old 03-27-2013, 01:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wilson View Post
"official" voltages:

Can you elaborate on what these "official" voltages should be? Are they stated in another thread? I have a wonky S3 OLED that has had "some" of the caps replaced but I'm guessing there might be more to it.

Thanks for your help.
The "official" (or what an electronics textbook would call the "nominal") voltages are the ones I metioned, 12 on the yellow, 5 on the red, 3.3 on the orange, and 7.5 on the 648's grey wire (which is the feed for the OLED display and almost certainly not in need of worrying about).

In this application, a power supply can vary a little away from exactly 12.0V or exactly 5.0V and still be easily within design specs, although if it reads, for example, 12.2V, it should remain fairly steady on that reading over time.

Remember, those are the voltage readings you get on those wires.

You don't know enough to be safely checking or probing anything on the power supply circuit board itself, and without a schematic of the supply, neither of us would know what we were looking for anyway.

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Old 03-27-2013, 02:24 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Wilson View Post
"official" voltages:

Can you elaborate on what these "official" voltages should be? Are they stated in another thread? I have a wonky S3 OLED that has had "some" of the caps replaced but I'm guessing there might be more to it.

Thanks for your help.
Official voltages:

Yellow wire = +12V

Red wire = +5 V

Orange wire = +3.3.V

Black wire = 0 V, i.e., ground.

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Old 03-27-2013, 07:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poppagene View Post
Official voltages:

Yellow wire = +12V

Red wire = +5 V

Orange wire = +3.3.V

Black wire = 0 V, i.e., ground.
John has an S3 OLED which also has a 7.5V source for the OLED as unitron indicated.

TiVo S3 OLED capacitor list
3Y power supply CP-1104 R2
TiVo PN SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3
3.3V 4.1A
5.0V 8.4A
7.5V 1.9A
12.0V 1.0A


Scott

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Old 04-18-2015, 09:20 AM   #15
drhoads
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I Solved This Problem!!!

It turned out to be the power and SATA cable. Probably the SATA cable. Cut the power end off of an old computer power supply and soldered together. Replaced the SATA cable. It has not rebooted in 6 months. I never did replace the power supply. All good.

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Old 04-19-2015, 01:14 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by drhoads View Post
It turned out to be the power and SATA cable. Probably the SATA cable. Cut the power end off of an old computer power supply and soldered together. Replaced the SATA cable. It has not rebooted in 6 months. I never did replace the power supply. All good.
It may seem odd that a cable just sitting there, not being flexed, would go bad, but it's not impossible.

A lot of the S3 external drive "pioneers" learned that the hard way about eSATA cables.

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