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Old 02-03-2015, 08:41 PM   #391
TostitoBandito
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Originally Posted by timhbtr53 View Post
You should be good for a long time now. It sure beats 99 bucks...
Sure was. About $12 for caps and $10 for a crappy high power radio shack soldering iron to desolder since my Weller wasn't able to desolder very effectively.

I was a bit nervous when I turned it on since this was the first significant PCB soldering I've done and figured I might have at least one bad connection in there, but was pleasantly surprised when I heard everything instantly spin up when I plugged it in.

I might finally build the OneTesla kit that I've had sitting around for a couple years.

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Old 02-04-2015, 07:47 PM   #392
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Sure was. About $12 for caps and $10 for a crappy high power radio shack soldering iron to desolder since my Weller wasn't able to desolder very effectively.

I was a bit nervous when I turned it on since this was the first significant PCB soldering I've done and figured I might have at least one bad connection in there, but was pleasantly surprised when I heard everything instantly spin up when I plugged it in.

I might finally build the OneTesla kit that I've had sitting around for a couple years.
I know what you mean, when I did the same surgery on my Series3 power supply a month ago it was the first time I had done any soldering at all. But it really was straightforward, just remember to do one cap at a time so you are sure to be putting the new one in the right spot. Totally worth the effort, and definitely beats the $100 and return shipping from weaknees.

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Old 02-04-2015, 08:20 PM   #393
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Here is a hint to help...

If you look at the board after you removed the caps there is print on the board the side that has lines on it the negative side. So if you remove one and can't remember how it goes back in just look for the lines and put the negative there. I have a picture posted with a part list on the page before this one. I take all the caps out first then test them "just for kicks" then I put the new ones in bend the legs down solder then cut the legs off then recheck for any cold solder joints. The more you do the easier it gets.


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Old 02-05-2015, 12:05 AM   #394
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Yeah, I was staring at it for a bit wondering how I was going to get them all in the right way when I noticed the hashed markings for the negative posts. Because of that, I ended up just stripping them all out at once so I could desolder and clean all the contacts in one go. Then I installed the new caps one side at a time working my way from the inside out.

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Old 02-13-2015, 05:01 PM   #395
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just wanted to check if the power supply's were interchangeable with models tcd652160 and tcd648250b Im not totally convinced it is the power supply and not the drive Im not technical enough to replace capacitors myself. sorry if this was coverd already I could find anything

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Old 02-14-2015, 03:19 AM   #396
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just wanted to check if the power supply's were interchangeable with models tcd652160 and tcd648250b Im not totally convinced it is the power supply and not the drive Im not technical enough to replace capacitors myself. sorry if this was coverd already I could find anything
In the following remarks when I refer to the 652 it also applies, NOT to the 652 predecessor, the 648, but to the model that came out at the same time as the 652, the 658, which was the exact same except for a 1TB hard drive and THX certification. Power supplies for the 652 and 658 may be considered to be the same, since they are.

There were 2 different models of 652/658 power supply, made by different companies, but the size, shape, mounting holes, cabling, and specs are the same, so they are completely interchangeable.

____________________________________________________________ _____

The 648 and 652 power supplies are not interchangeable on a permanent basis.

Physically they're swappable, and the pinout of the motherboard connector is the same EXCEPT FOR THE EXTRA 7.5V LINE ON THE 648 SUPPLY!

We don't know to what, if anything, that particular pin is connected on the 652 motherboard, so we don't know if putting a 649 supply in a 652 would blow anything up or set anything on fire or not.

You can put a 652 supply in a 648 for testing purposes, and it should run the motherboard and hard drive okay, but not the clock on the front of the 648.

But as I say, the other way 'round, with a 648 supply in a 652, there's that extra wire that may wind up going someplace it shouldn't.


If you have experience with using teeny screwdrivers and such to bend teeny prongs on the metal connectors in Molex plugs to remove them temporarily, then you could remove that line and insulate it well with electrical tape, but if you already had the experience and knowledge to do that sort of thing you'd have already compared the 2 supplies and figured all that out on your own.

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Old 02-21-2015, 08:33 PM   #397
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In the following remarks when I refer to the 652 it also applies, NOT to the 652 predecessor, the 648, but to the model that came out at the same time as the 652, the 658, which was the exact same except for a 1TB hard drive and THX certification. Power supplies for the 652 and 658 may be considered to be the same, since they are.

There were 2 different models of 652/658 power supply, made by different companies, but the size, shape, mounting holes, cabling, and specs are the same, so they are completely interchangeable.

____________________________________________________________ _____

The 648 and 652 power supplies are not interchangeable on a permanent basis.

Physically they're swappable, and the pinout of the motherboard connector is the same EXCEPT FOR THE EXTRA 7.5V LINE ON THE 648 SUPPLY!

We don't know to what, if anything, that particular pin is connected on the 652 motherboard, so we don't know if putting a 649 supply in a 652 would blow anything up or set anything on fire or not.

You can put a 652 supply in a 648 for testing purposes, and it should run the motherboard and hard drive okay, but not the clock on the front of the 648.

But as I say, the other way 'round, with a 648 supply in a 652, there's that extra wire that may wind up going someplace it shouldn't.


If you have experience with using teeny screwdrivers and such to bend teeny prongs on the metal connectors in Molex plugs to remove them temporarily, then you could remove that line and insulate it well with electrical tape, but if you already had the experience and knowledge to do that sort of thing you'd have already compared the 2 supplies and figured all that out on your own.


Thanks for the reply was able to test it out and it was the power pack
all back up and running

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Old 02-28-2015, 09:29 AM   #398
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I purchased a used HD XL (658) and would like to swap out the power supply with one that has new capacitors. The part numbers are the same (SPWR-00011-000) except the one that came with the used unit is a Rev B2, and the one I want to replace it with is a Rev B0. They layouts appear to be identical, but some of the larger components have different numbers (but look identical otherwise).

Are these power supplies interchangeable?


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Old 02-28-2015, 12:28 PM   #399
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Originally Posted by HerronScott View Post
I believe a number of people have ordered from that project list (full link below) and it matches the list that I compiled when I repaired my S3 OLED although I ordered from Digikey.

Mouser project
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=1a42eea4c1


Scott
Thanks for pulling this list/project together. Just completed my order, and now anxiously wait for the capacitors to arrive.

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Old 02-28-2015, 04:06 PM   #400
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I purchased a used HD XL (658) and would like to swap out the power supply with one that has new capacitors. The part numbers are the same (SPWR-00011-000) except the one that came with the used unit is a Rev B2, and the one I want to replace it with is a Rev B0. They layouts appear to be identical, but some of the larger components have different numbers (but look identical otherwise).

Are these power supplies interchangeable?
Did both power supplies come out of either a TCD652160 or a TCD658000?

If so, they are interchangeable. Even if they're 2 different brands.

But if one came out of the original Series 3, the TCD648250, the one with the clock display, you'll have to know how to remove the gray wire from the motherboard plug and insulate the end because the 652 (HD) and 658 (HD XL) do not use that 7.5V line and we don't know what it might short to.

Power supplies from a Series 1, 2, 4, or 5 won't fit and won't have the right connectors.

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Old 02-28-2015, 08:51 PM   #401
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Did both power supplies come out of either a TCD652160 or a TCD658000?

If so, they are interchangeable. Even if they're 2 different brands.

But if one came out of the original Series 3, the TCD648250, the one with the clock display, you'll have to know how to remove the gray wire from the motherboard plug and insulate the end because the 652 (HD) and 658 (HD XL) do not use that 7.5V line and we don't know what it might short to.

Power supplies from a Series 1, 2, 4, or 5 won't fit and won't have the right connectors.
Thanks, they both look identical except for the Rev #'s, so I guess I will try it out.

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Old 04-06-2015, 08:50 PM   #402
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My caps or going by by C120

[QUOTE=HerronScott;10390274]
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Originally Posted by timhbtr53 View Post
It's worth the time to pull C120 "The large cap" and check for leaks. I have had 4 in the last 6 month that was bad. They don't dome but will vent from the bottom. QUOTE]

Do you have a recommended replacement part number for that one?

Scott
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I got a message from Mouser today that the part I use is going away "End of Life: Scheduled for obsolescence and will be discontinued by the manufacturer." But I did find a bunch more but not Panasonic.

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Old 04-22-2015, 04:18 PM   #403
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Red face

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If you feel comfortable removing the power supply, and want to pay shipping/mailing both ways (and a few bucks for the replacement capactitor(s), I can unsolder the bad ones and solder in good replacements, no charge for labor.

However, I don't have an S3 in which to test it, and can't absolutely guarantee that the capacitor(s) are the only thing wrong with it.

Mailing an entire TiVo runs about $20 one way. Not sure what sending just the power supply would run.
I have bulging caps on my series 3 TCD648250B. Wouldn't go past welcome screen and no kickstart.
I know you don't have a series 3 to test it but any chance you could do the soldering if I mailed the power supply to you? Just tell me what it costs.....Thanks.

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Old 04-22-2015, 05:19 PM   #404
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You probably need the caps replaced

But did you check the hard drive out in a pc? The series 3 TCD648250B has some of the worse caps ever sold in the supply. I would check the drive first.

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Old 04-22-2015, 09:17 PM   #405
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Hard drive already replaced with 2TB last year

Tim,

I had the hard drive already replaced with 2TB last year. I see that the C401, C402, C601, and C701 are all bulging a little.

I have no experience with soldering and don't trust myself with this repair and was wondering if someone could help me out.....(I could buy the whole kit of capacitors as I hear others could be bad and not bulge) Thanks. Tom

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Old 04-24-2015, 06:43 AM   #406
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Originally Posted by HerronScott View Post
I believe a number of people have ordered from that project list (full link below) and it matches the list that I compiled when I repaired my S3 OLED although I ordered from Digikey.

Mouser project
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=1a42eea4c1


Scott

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsporl View Post
Thanks for pulling this list/project together. Just completed my order, and now anxiously wait for the capacitors to arrive.
I received that kit of capacitors, but they don't look like the ones on my power supply. I have the OLED Tivo. Did those OLED TiVos have different power supplies so needed different mouser projects?

My power supply looks like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TiVo-Series-...item2a4dd0546f


Last edited by replaytv; 04-24-2015 at 06:55 AM.
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Old 04-24-2015, 06:58 AM   #407
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Quote:
I received that kit of capacitors, but they don't look like the ones on my power supply. I have the OLED Tivo. Did those OLED TiVos have different power supplies so needed different mouser projects?
The S3 OLED only had one model power supply. This should be on your power supply somewhere.

3Y power supply CP-1104 R2
TiVo PN SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3

The sizes of some of the capacitors is different than the original but that's not important as long as the capacitors have the correct values and fit in the space on the power supply. For example, my notes show C601 was originally 30mm x 10mm x 5mm (lead spacing and roughly measured) but the replacement is 20mm x 12.5mm x 5mm (lead spacing).

Have you compared values and part numbers to my original list? I haven't actually looked at the Mouser project since it was created but I assume it hasn't changed (note that I didn't create that project).

Scott

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Old 04-24-2015, 08:40 AM   #408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerronScott View Post
I believe a number of people have ordered from that project list (full link below) and it matches the list that I compiled when I repaired my S3 OLED although I ordered from Digikey.

Mouser project
https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManage...sID=1a42eea4c1


Scott



I received that kit of capacitors, but they don't look like the ones on my power supply. I have the OLED Tivo. Did those OLED TiVos have different power supplies so needed different mouser projects?

My power supply looks like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/TiVo-Series-...item2a4dd0546f


Is that picture just similar to what you have or did you actually buy a supply from that seller?


'Cause I've got a 648 board right here in front of me and that cluster of 4 caps in front of the black heat sink and just to the right of those two coils doesn't look right.

Mostly because C601 is too short and C504 is too not even installed.


And then I saw this at the top of that ad:


Seller refurbished


...and a chill ran down my spine...

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Old 04-24-2015, 10:05 AM   #409
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Recap

Tom "Moyer2820". It sounds like the normal C701 C401 C402 caps.


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Old 04-24-2015, 03:00 PM   #410
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Here is my Mouser Order for all 11 caps

C701 is on back order so I used a replacement cap but has the same specs
Hope this helps..
Tim.
If your going to do more then 1 you might order double they charge the same rate shipping. It's like 6.99 USPS 2-3 day
The link I had posted I made a change to added more caps for my stock a few of the Panasonic caps or going by by.


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Old 04-24-2015, 03:49 PM   #411
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http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager...sID=9f86a13d07

Enter Access ID: 9f86a13d07
C701 is on back order so I used a replacement cap but has the same specs
Hope this helps..
Tim.
If your going to do more then 1 you might order double they charge the same rate shipping. It's like 6.99 USPS 2-3 day
thanks - I ordered double (prob should have ordered 3X since I have 3 oled 3s around). I am not in a hurry so I rqstd them to be shipped when all are in (I think it said that 1 part was expected in July!). that is ok

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Old 04-24-2015, 04:41 PM   #412
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Good deal...

I made a order yesterday and found out that C701 is on back order till July so I found a replacement from them not a Panasonic but same specs. Just make sure you know where both side of the power cord is at all times. You can do it... If you run into any problems just hit me with a PM and I will see what I can do for you...

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Old 04-27-2015, 06:23 PM   #413
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Just for some info For You TiVO users

I have a spare supply so I dropped out the new caps out and put the bad caps in. Looking on my o-scope and with 4 probes stuck on the board I got some good stuff in memory. The caps that filter the 12v lines was so rippled and it made the 5v line work over time. I set the voltage on 5.000 Vdc it would not boot "Humm" but the 7 volt and 5 volt was so stressed it ran up the 5 volt line to 5.700 volts. I replaced one cap at a time and got a boot but OMG talk about some trash in the DC lines 12V 7V 5V 3V was like a lighting strike on my scope. I have a 1Tb Seagate drive that I got from a user and I pulled the controller board off and you can see burn marks everywhere. So if you or having ANY problems with your S3 TCD648250B PLEASE open the unit up and look at the caps on the power supply if you see any of the tops that look domed or popping up don't wait any longer replace then it only 11 caps. If you don't fell like you can't do it post it and we can find someone to do it. I can do them but I'm not posting this to round up money. If you won't to keep you TiVo in tip top shape open it up clean out the dust clean the fan just remember heat is the killer. Make sure you have a good power strip and or a UPS on your TiVo.. Thanks for letting me rant. Tim in Baton Rouge....


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Old 04-27-2015, 06:56 PM   #414
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Originally Posted by unitron View Post
Is that picture just similar to what you have or did you actually buy a supply from that seller?


'Cause I've got a 648 board right here in front of me and that cluster of 4 caps in front of the black heat sink and just to the right of those two coils doesn't look right.

Mostly because C601 is too short and C504 is too not even installed.


And then I saw this at the top of that ad:


Seller refurbished


...and a chill ran down my spine...
I didn't buy from the eBay seller. My power supply looks exactly the one pictured, except the largest capacitor has a aluminum color in the middle of the black color, rather than being all black. Course, that doesn't matter. The kit I got didn't have any large capacitors at all.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TiVo-Series-...item2a4dd0546f

Quote:
Originally Posted by HerronScott View Post
The S3 OLED only had one model power supply. This should be on your power supply somewhere.

3Y power supply CP-1104 R2
TiVo PN SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3

The sizes of some of the capacitors is different than the original but that's not important as long as the capacitors have the correct values and fit in the space on the power supply. For example, my notes show C601 was originally 30mm x 10mm x 5mm (lead spacing and roughly measured) but the replacement is 20mm x 12.5mm x 5mm (lead spacing).

Have you compared values and part numbers to my original list? I haven't actually looked at the Mouser project since it was created but I assume it hasn't changed (note that I didn't create that project).

Scott
Thanks for everyones' help.... I will take a look at the capacitors I received and see if they have the same values as the ones on the power supply. The kit didn't contain a large capacitor like seen in the middle, or some other capacitors according to size, so I assumed I ordered the wrong kit, and that may still be true, or they sent me the wrong parts. But understand that they don't have to be the exact same size, just the correct values.

I should have requested the my brother bring his 'scope over so I could check the different power lines when running, but it sounds like that if I do that I should disconnect the mother board and disk drive to avoid possible damage to them while troubleshooting.

Looking closer at the capacitors, I see now that the largest cap' on the power supply board is a 470uF 200 volts , but the one I received is 470uF 16volts, but very small.

None of the caps' are domed or otherwise looking like they are leaking. The symptoms was that the TV had flashes of lines on it with corresponding pops of sound.


Last edited by replaytv; 04-28-2015 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 04-27-2015, 07:58 PM   #415
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C120

If you pull the large cap and check the bottom and if there is nothing leaking from it your ok. The large caps like that will vent from the bottom I have only replaced 4 out of over 100 done. If it's vented I have a mouser number replacement cap. If you can get your hands on a LCR bridge you can load test it but if no leaks I would not sweat it...
Tim That 470uf @ 16v is C603 you will need it.


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