Originally Posted by unitron
I have used superglue to re-attach traces to a circuit board--smells really good when you heat it up to resolder whatever. Not.
But after getting that SMD cap re-attached and verifying that everything is fixed, I'd use a little bit of Room Temperature Vulcanizing (smells like vinegar as it cures) silicon caulking to create a non-rigid bond between the side of the cap and the motherboard. It can be removed without damaging anything if ever necessary. Just don't put it where the solder connections are.
dmartin5454, if that cap's leads are damaged, post all the lettering on it and I'll see if I haven't got another one on a scrap S3 board I've got around here.
I thought about that after posting: That superglue, post repair, might make future rework difficult. I've had so much bad luck trying to get superglue to ONLY glue down a lifted trace, and not whatever tool I'm trying to hold it down with, to the trace, causing more problems, I try to save it for last, and just let it flow under (gel version, sometimes is better) and set once soldering is done, and electrical circuit function has been verified. It's not something I'd advise anybody to first try on a TiVo board with SMD.
That silicone adhesive has a lot of flex to it. I wouldn't trust it, unless the whole cap was nearly encapsulated, and a good bead went over the traces. I'd worry that once all siliconed, another bump could still break the circuit, and it wouldn't even be visible. Superglue is easier to remove with acetone (nail polish remover), than silicone, which is resistant to pretty much anything once set, and tends to leave a film that won't allow solder to adhere (and it's heat-resistant, so burning it away isn't going to work, either).
Honestly, the best choices come down to the damage that exists, and further damage caused while repairing, and just how well one feels something need be secured. At least acetone can dissolve, even hard-set, old, superglue. Good luck getting the silicone off, once set (even unset it's a PITA).
I usually don't speak of using superglue for anything electrical.
I really should crack open, and take pictures of, the TV I fixed a shattered main PCB on, using nothing but an exacto knife, copper wire (some copper-clad RG 59/6 core, for strength, and some stranded/braid for flex), solder, and superglue, (regular, and gel). I expected a catastrophic result, or nothing. Plugged it in, once all set, and working TV (even the built-in DVD player).
How did that board get shattered? Somebody violently uninstalled it without unplugging it, and the internal power cord anchor was inadequate. Then they literally dropped it at the curb. I like challenges, even if I really didn't need an old CRT TV for anything... 3+ years later, it's still the garage TV/DVD.
Of course, it wasn't a multi-layer PCB with hidden traces, between layers, but was great practice, and very rewarding to see it work after all that.