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Old 04-02-2014, 09:15 PM   #241
kaleio57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
I can see by the gray wire that you've got a TCD648250, and there's a list around here somewhere

I'm hoping I can get some help. My Tivo is a TCD648250. It was working fine yesterday, and after unplugging it and plugging it into a new Power Surge protector I got the Welcome Powering up screen, and it wouldn't get passed it.

So I unplugged it and plugged it in this morning, and nothing! I find it hard to believe that my hard drive died, so I'm thinking it may be the capacitors.

I've already have an order going at Digikey thanks to another poster's list. The question that I have is, do I need to solder anything? I'm going into this with zero experience (I'm a female). I ordered the two screw drivers recommended via Amazon, and I'll get them in a couple of days.

Thank you in advance for your help.
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Old 04-03-2014, 06:49 PM   #242
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Girls can solder. that is the only way to connect them to the board itself. Look up a you tube video on how to do this.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:31 PM   #243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaleio57 View Post
I'm hoping I can get some help. My Tivo is a TCD648250. It was working fine yesterday, and after unplugging it and plugging it into a new Power Surge protector I got the Welcome Powering up screen, and it wouldn't get passed it.

So I unplugged it and plugged it in this morning, and nothing! I find it hard to believe that my hard drive died, so I'm thinking it may be the capacitors.

I've already have an order going at Digikey thanks to another poster's list. The question that I have is, do I need to solder anything? I'm going into this with zero experience (I'm a female). I ordered the two screw drivers recommended via Amazon, and I'll get them in a couple of days.

Thank you in advance for your help.


I don't recommend very much of what Radio Shack carries, but this particular item


RadioShack® 45-Watt Desoldering Iron
Model: 64-2060 | Catalog #: 64-2060

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062731


can do double duty in melting and removing the old solder, and in heating the solder pads on the bottom of the power supply circuit board and the capacitor leads so that they in turn melt new solder to solder them together.

(When you solder stuff, you don't heat the solder, you heat the work and let it melt the solder so that you get a good bond instead of what's called a "cold solder joint")

When you put the tip on the joint to be unsoldered, you can feed a little new solder against where the tip touches the old solder, and as it melts it will help to melt the old solder.


Either

Standard Rosin-Core Solder (0.5 Oz.)
Model: 64-017 | Catalog #: 64-017

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062719


or


Rosin Core Solder (2.5 Oz.)
Model: 64-005 | Catalog #: 64-005

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062711



will do for the new solder.

Avoid any lead-free or silver-bearing solder--it takes too much heat to work with them and you aren't going to keel over dead from lead fumes from just this one project.


In addition to the 6 or so screws holding the power supply circuit board down to the chassis that you'll need a #10 Torx bit for (Same size as the one to undo the screws holding the cover on), there's one small black screw that goes in from the outside into the top of the AC input socket's plastic housing, and it'll take a #8 or #9 Torx bit.

I'm not familiar with the drivers from Amazon to which you refer, but this one set

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-I...4502/100087664

has all the sizes you'll need for about $6

The capacitors you'll be replacing, and the replacements, are polarized--one of the leads is supposed to be kept more positive than the other and the other is supposed to be kept more negative than the one.

There will be markings, either minus signs or plus signs or both, on the caps, and there should be silk-screened markings on the circuit board as well to indicate which lead goes into which hole.

Take note of the orientation of the first cap you unsolder before you remove it, and when it's out and you can see the area that was under it, it will become apparent what sort of polarity indication scheme is used on the board.


Once you've got the soldering done, you'll need to cut or snip the excess lead length sticking out above (with the board upside down) the solder joints.

If you don't happen to already have a pair of what are called "diagonal cutters" or "flush cutters", you could actually use the cutting part on the end of wire strippers like


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercia...6007/202039368


or


http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=17877946


and the part that strips insulation off of wires may come in handy in the future on speaker wire or something.
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Old 04-04-2014, 03:38 PM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaleio57 View Post
I'm hoping I can get some help. My Tivo is a TCD648250. It was working fine yesterday, and after unplugging it and plugging it into a new Power Surge protector I got the Welcome Powering up screen, and it wouldn't get passed it.

So I unplugged it and plugged it in this morning, and nothing! I find it hard to believe that my hard drive died, so I'm thinking it may be the capacitors.

I've already have an order going at Digikey thanks to another poster's list. The question that I have is, do I need to solder anything? I'm going into this with zero experience (I'm a female). I ordered the two screw drivers recommended via Amazon, and I'll get them in a couple of days.

Thank you in advance for your help.
It might not be your power supply, it might be the hard drive, but since it is the model that it is, you'd probably wind up having to do a capacitor replacement in the not too distant future anyway.

This way you can take care of that while you've got the cover off to get at the hard drive to test it.

If it's the original 250GB drive that was installed at the factory, there's a good chance it's dying of old age, and wear and tear.

And if you have, or have had, an external drive connected to that TiVo, say so now.
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Old 04-05-2014, 11:51 AM   #245
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Last night I was successfully able to replace the caps in my 3Y power supply with very little electronics soldering experience (nothing in the past 15 years). The first couple took a while to figure out the concept of tinning, but after that it went pretty smoothly, and the TIVO fired up without a hiccup. Bought all my caps from Digikey and soldering supplies from RS.

I would like to do my ACBel power supply next, but the caps i received from Digi Key to replace the (3) 16v 2200uf caps are much shorter and fatter than the existing ones, and won't fit because the existing caps are already touching each other. The part number was EEU-FR1C222. Not sure how to proceed because I am not sure what the correct part number should be.

Last edited by bleech2 : 04-05-2014 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 04-05-2014, 12:43 PM   #246
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I would like to do my ACBel power supply next, but the caps i received from Digi Key to replace the (3) 16v 2200uf caps are much shorter and fatter than the existing ones, and won't fit because the existing caps are already touching each other. The part number was EEU-FR1C222. Not sure how to proceed because I am not sure what the correct part number should be.
According to my Digikey web order history, these are what I used:

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...&formaction=on

The ones I used were also too fat but I managed to fit them in there by not seating them all the way down.

And this is how it turned out:


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Old 04-05-2014, 01:42 PM   #247
kaleio57
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Originally Posted by unitron View Post
It might not be your power supply, it might be the hard drive, but since it is the model that it is, you'd probably wind up having to do a capacitor replacement in the not too distant future anyway.

This way you can take care of that while you've got the cover off to get at the hard drive to test it.

If it's the original 250GB drive that was installed at the factory, there's a good chance it's dying of old age, and wear and tear.

And if you have, or have had, an external drive connected to that TiVo, say so now.
Thank you for all your replies.

It's actually my second TCD648250. I had to replace the first one in 2011. In hindsight, I think it might have been the power supply that failed the first time around. Pretty much the same scenario. Everything worked fine until I switched power supplies.

I've got some studying to do before I tackle this project. I'll let you all know how I made out.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:42 PM   #248
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Those are the same diameter as mine, but taller. Does the extra height give any performance advantage? I envisioned them having to be splayed out much more than that. Thanks for posting!
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Old 04-05-2014, 08:10 PM   #249
unitron
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Originally Posted by squint View Post
According to my Digikey web order history, these are what I used:

http://www.digikey.com/product-searc...&formaction=on

The ones I used were also too fat but I managed to fit them in there by not seating them all the way down.

And this is how it turned out:


Is that one straight back from the orange wires domed or is that just the photo tricking me?
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:04 PM   #250
squint
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Those are the same diameter as mine, but taller. Does the extra height give any performance advantage? I envisioned them having to be splayed out much more than that. Thanks for posting!
Within the same model line of capacitors, the larger the can size, the lower the ESR and the higher the ripple current.

Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
Is that one straight back from the orange wires domed or is that just the photo tricking me?
It's an optical illusion. I took that photo right after I replaced all the capacitors in that power supply. I pulled that power supply out of a Tivo today and it's still flat. I have two Tivo HDs and three power supplies (two 3Y and one Acbel). I just swapped in my second 3Y after replacing all the capacitors to see if it worked (it does but I like to test them for a few months).
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:59 AM   #251
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I was just about to order the caps that squint used, but noticed the ones he linked to are 2200uf 25V instead of 2200uf 16V. Does the voltage difference matter?
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:54 AM   #252
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I was just about to order the caps that squint used, but noticed the ones he linked to are 2200uf 25V instead of 2200uf 16V. Does the voltage difference matter?
You can go up 1 or 2 "steps" in capacitor voltage rating.

If you already purchased EEU-FR1C222 capacitors from Digikey, I would just use those. The EEU-FR1E222L I used have a higher ripple current but the cost of ordering new capacitors isn't worth the minuscule performance improvement.
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:15 PM   #253
unitron
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I was just about to order the caps that squint used, but noticed the ones he linked to are 2200uf 25V instead of 2200uf 16V. Does the voltage difference matter?
As indicated elsewhere you can go up a little.

Just don't go down.

Maybe they were out of the 16V version when he put his list together.

At least one of the S3 platform supplies uses several 2200uF 16V and one 2200uF 25V. I still haven't figured out why, especially since they seem to be in parallel, electrically, but the company that designed and built them wouldn't have spent the extra penny or two if it wasn't necessary. It's closer to the transistors, physically, meaning there's more copper trace on the bottom of the circuit board before you get to the others even though the difference in resistance is a fraction of a fraction of an Ohm, so maybe it's expected to catch switching spikes before they get to the others.

You could safely replace all of those with 2000uF 25V caps as long as you made sure they were low ESR and 105 degree rated.

Just don't substitute a different uF rating. Maybe the designers had concerns in mind other than what was the cheapest value that would still work.
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Old Yesterday, 02:13 PM   #254
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Finally replaced the caps in my ACBel power supply using the caps I originally bought, and everything is working great. Thanks for all the assistance!
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