Originally Posted by kaleio57
I'm hoping I can get some help. My Tivo is a TCD648250. It was working fine yesterday, and after unplugging it and plugging it into a new Power Surge protector I got the Welcome Powering up screen, and it wouldn't get passed it.
So I unplugged it and plugged it in this morning, and nothing! I find it hard to believe that my hard drive died, so I'm thinking it may be the capacitors.
I've already have an order going at Digikey thanks to another poster's list. The question that I have is, do I need to solder anything? I'm going into this with zero experience (I'm a female). I ordered the two screw drivers recommended via Amazon, and I'll get them in a couple of days.
Thank you in advance for your help.
I don't recommend very much of what Radio Shack carries, but this particular item
RadioShack® 45-Watt Desoldering Iron
Model: 64-2060 | Catalog #: 64-2060
can do double duty in melting and removing the old solder, and in heating the solder pads on the bottom of the power supply circuit board and the capacitor leads so that they in turn melt new solder to solder them together.
(When you solder stuff, you don't heat the solder, you heat the work and let it melt the solder so that you get a good bond instead of what's called a "cold solder joint")
When you put the tip on the joint to be unsoldered, you can feed a little new solder against where the tip touches the old solder, and as it melts it will help to melt the old solder.
Standard Rosin-Core Solder (0.5 Oz.)
Model: 64-017 | Catalog #: 64-017
Rosin Core Solder (2.5 Oz.)
Model: 64-005 | Catalog #: 64-005
will do for the new solder.
Avoid any lead-free or silver-bearing solder--it takes too much heat to work with them and you aren't going to keel over dead from lead fumes from just this one project.
In addition to the 6 or so screws holding the power supply circuit board down to the chassis that you'll need a #10 Torx bit for (Same size as the one to undo the screws holding the cover on), there's one small black screw that goes in from the outside into the top of the AC input socket's plastic housing, and it'll take a #8 or #9 Torx bit.
I'm not familiar with the drivers from Amazon to which you refer, but this one set
has all the sizes you'll need for about $6
The capacitors you'll be replacing, and the replacements, are polarized--one of the leads is supposed to be kept more positive than the other and the other is supposed to be kept more negative than the one.
There will be markings, either minus signs or plus signs or both, on the caps, and there should be silk-screened markings on the circuit board as well to indicate which lead goes into which hole.
Take note of the orientation of the first cap you unsolder before you remove it, and when it's out and you can see the area that was under it, it will become apparent what sort of polarity indication scheme is used on the board.
Once you've got the soldering done, you'll need to cut or snip the excess lead length sticking out above (with the board upside down) the solder joints.
If you don't happen to already have a pair of what are called "diagonal cutters" or "flush cutters", you could actually use the cutting part on the end of wire strippers like
and the part that strips insulation off of wires may come in handy in the future on speaker wire or something.