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Old 10-20-2011, 02:21 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by MeInDallas View Post
I have a soldering iron yes and know how to use it. I dont have a voltmeter though. I'm thinking I can borrow one from someone though I know. Would it be best to tap off the wires that are going to the hard drive? I know in the older Series 2 you could just get one of the many molex adapters and add stuff there where the hard drive was connected so easy.
I was thinking, without ever actually having had my hands on an S3 power supply, that you could unsolder the yellow wires, add a skinny yellow wire into the hole with them, and re-solder, and the same with a skinny black wire for the ground. Don't actually mess with the hard drive's power leads except for temporarily unsoldering 2 of them at the power supply.

Those 2 wires could be the bare leads from a fan, but I'd feel much, much better if there were some sort of disconnect involved that allowed easily disconnecting the hard drive fan without leaving either of the wires added to the power supply "exposed", electrically speaking.

Another possibility is an item I used back in the '70s on car stereo installs.

3M makes a "Scotchlock" connector that's sort of "T" shaped. The crossbar part of the "T" pierces the insulation of the wire you're tapping into, and the up and down part of the "T" is a 1/4" female quick connect, and there's insulating plastic enshrouding the whole thing except for the end where you plug in a 1/4" male quick connect with an oversized insulating shroud that goes over the insulating shroud of the "T" connector.

Perhaps you could find them in an auto parts store if you don't have a decent electronics supply house in town, as so many of us no longer do.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:35 AM   #32
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...
Regarding adding an extra fan, I wonder if the TiVo's PSU could be replaced with this?
http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-90

You'd get the extra 4 pin connector you need, plus a non-proprietary SATA power connector. Plus, the brick sits outside the TiVo, so you might not need the TiVo fan at all. Based on the fan's position on the TiVo, it appears it is there to cool the PSU more than the other components.
The TiVo doesn't use an ATX power supply, it uses a TiVo power supply (in some cases supplying a low current 30 or so Volts for the reverse bias on the tuner varactors, a sort of Zener diode used as a voltage-variable capacitor), and there's speed control and temperature sensing circuitry on the TiVo motherboard for the chassis fan.

Also, the TiVo's chassis fan may be near the power supply's heat sinks, but the air inlet holes are placed so as to cause the fan to pull air over the motherboard and hard drive as well, and I'm sure that's not co-incidental.

What would be great, and will never happen for legal liability and cost of UL approval reasons, is a piggyback power supply that had spring metal contacts to connect to the AC jack on the inside where there's exposed metal, so that it and the original power supply shared the same line cord coming from the wall socket.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:46 AM   #33
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the reverse bias on the tuner varactors, a sort of Zener diode used as a voltage-variable capacitor
All that's beyond me.

But in response to your parallel plug thing, you could always get something like this and run the fan on it. While it wouldn't power on and off with the TiVo, you could put it on a switched outlet or ignore it since unplugging the TiVo is such a rare occurrence.
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Old 10-20-2011, 04:14 AM   #34
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All that's beyond me.

But in response to your parallel plug thing, you could always get something like this and run the fan on it. While it wouldn't power on and off with the TiVo, you could put it on a switched outlet or ignore it since unplugging the TiVo is such a rare occurrence.
You'd have to find a way to run the output cable of that thing into the TiVo or the hard drive fan cable out of the TiVo.

Not saying it can't be done, but I like the idea of keeping it all inside the TiVo better, but others may have other preferences.

Thanks for the link, though. It looks like something that would be handy on the test bench.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:10 AM   #35
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OK, as a Tivo owner who has really struggled with the fan noise in the Tivo HD for the last three years, let me share some experiences.

I bought the Ebay JMC ,the Newegg Evercool and also the OEM fan from WeakKnees for both my HD and Premiere. The fans are different sizes of course.

The JMC has 2 pin and plugs right into the TivoHD fan connector. It's a real replacement for the Tivo OEM fan Cofan. Output is the same, may be a little quieter.

The Weakknees OEM fan was just as loud as the OEM fan that I thought was defective. Costed about $20.

The Evergreen fan has 3 pins and a molex and pushed more air and was noisy even after the initial blast off.

The Tivo HD is placed in a standing shelf which also contains my receiver, BD player, Media player and HD etc...Unhappily it's in my BR and I am a light sleeper so I am particularly sensitive to noise.

My net is I am still looking for that quiet fan for the TivoHD.

My Premiere OEM fan is quieter than the Evercool fan.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:18 AM   #36
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OK, as a Tivo owner who has really struggled with the fan noise in the Tivo HD for the last three years, let me share some experiences.

I bought the Ebay JMC ,the Newegg Evercool and also the OEM fan from WeakKnees for both my HD and Premiere. The fans are different sizes of course.

The JMC has 2 pin and plugs right into the TivoHD fan connector. It's a real replacement for the Tivo OEM fan Cofan. Output is the same, may be a little quieter.

The Weakknees OEM fan was just as loud as the OEM fan that I thought was defective. Costed about $20.

The Evergreen fan has 3 pins and a molex and pushed more air and was noisy even after the initial blast off.

The Tivo HD is placed in a standing shelf which also contains my receiver, BD player, Media player and HD etc...Unhappily it's in my BR and I am a light sleeper so I am particularly sensitive to noise.

My net is I am still looking for that quiet fan for the TivoHD.

My Premiere OEM fan is quieter than the Evercool fan.
Perhaps thin little rubber washers, 2 per fan screw, one outside the case, one inside.

Peel back the label on the non-blade side and check for adequate lubrication.

I recommend a mixture of light grease and light oil (like sewing machine oil or 3-in-1).
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:25 AM   #37
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Thanks for the suggestions. You inspired me, so I will take out the Evercool today and put the Cofan or JMC back on with lithium grease and 3-in-1 oil and see what happens.
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Old 10-20-2011, 07:54 PM   #38
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Another possibility is an item I used back in the '70s on car stereo installs.

3M makes a "Scotchlock" connector that's sort of "T" shaped. The crossbar part of the "T" pierces the insulation of the wire you're tapping into, and the up and down part of the "T" is a 1/4" female quick connect, and there's insulating plastic enshrouding the whole thing except for the end where you plug in a 1/4" male quick connect with an oversized insulating shroud that goes over the insulating shroud of the "T" connector.

Perhaps you could find them in an auto parts store if you don't have a decent electronics supply house in town, as so many of us no longer do.
OK, I remember these things now and I never thought about this but its an extremely great idea! I used these things on my 1980 Camaro

My creative ideas are going crazy now! I've already got the cover off looking at how I can do this thing. A HUGE THANK YOU FOR THIS IDEA!
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Old 10-20-2011, 09:02 PM   #39
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OK, I remember these things now and I never thought about this but its an extremely great idea! I used these things on my 1980 Camaro

My creative ideas are going crazy now! I've already got the cover off looking at how I can do this thing. A HUGE THANK YOU FOR THIS IDEA!
That's not quite the one I was describing.

That one does insulation piercing on both wires, and you have to take it apart to unhook the added wire.

What I'm talking about has apparently come to be known as a Scotchlock T-tap.

Here's a page with a good illustration of them I found through Google images.

http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/reso...ap-connectors/

I mention how I found it so as not to mislead anyone into thinking I ride or otherwise know anything about motorcycles.

As you can see, you choose the T-tap according to the gauge of the wire you'll be tapping into, and can choose a male plug with a barrel sized for the wire you'll be doing the tapping with.

Since fan leads are usually about half as big around as drive power leads, this works out better than the side by side, both wires the same gauge, type in your picture.

Electrically, it's pretty much the same deal.

It was your picture of the wire bundle running back to the power supply that triggered my memory of the T-tap.

So you can put away the soldering iron, and get out the crimping tool (for the male disconnect to go on the fan wire).
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:35 PM   #40
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OK this is great! I found these on Amazon for under $3 for a set of 4 matched. This will be perfect! Thank you so much for your help!!!
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:28 PM   #41
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OK this is great! I found these on Amazon for under $3 for a set of 4 matched. This will be perfect! Thank you so much for your help!!!
What gauge wire do they say the T-tap is for, and what gauge wire do they say the spade connector is for?
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:20 PM   #42
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What gauge wire do they say the T-tap is for, and what gauge wire do they say the spade connector is for?
Well that particular one is 14 - 16 guage, but they have several different sizes listed on there you can get. I have to make my way out to the garage tomorrow and find my guage measurement tool and figure out what size to get. I just havent made it out that way yet. Too many shows to catch up on
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:45 PM   #43
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Well that particular one is 14 - 16 guage, but they have several different sizes listed on there you can get. I have to make my way out to the garage tomorrow and find my guage measurement tool and figure out what size to get. I just havent made it out that way yet. Too many shows to catch up on
The power supply wires are probably 16 or 18, and the fan wires are probably about 22.

If you have a drive fan with bare wire leads (or clip off any connectors--leave a little wire to splice to something else in the future), you might be able to remove the plastic on the spade connectors, slide them down the fan wires to thermal safety, strip enough insulation from the fan wires to give you enough bare wire to fold over a time or three, insert that in the barrel of the spade connector, and flow some solder in there, although if the wire takes up enough space, crimp first, then flow solder, and after it cools slide the plastic back down to cover the spade connectors.
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:11 AM   #44
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I was actually thinking about putting one of these on there. I have a lot of them from over the years when I have bought fans. I could clip off that one molex end (in red), then attach the bare wires and it'll have 2 different hook ups, and then at some point if I decide to change things around I can just unplug whats there and then plug in the new fan. This way you can put different stuff on there if needed. You got some GREAT ideas!
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:35 AM   #45
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I was actually thinking about putting one of these on there. I have a lot of them from over the years when I have bought fans. I could clip off that one molex end (in red), then attach the bare wires and it'll have 2 different hook ups, and then at some point if I decide to change things around I can just unplug whats there and then plug in the new fan. This way you can put different stuff on there if needed. You got some GREAT ideas!
I didn't realize your junk box was that well stocked.

I started to also suggest as an alternate to putting the spade terminals on the fan leads that you could attach a 4 pin Molex to the power supply leads (might as well find the +5 lead as well and do all 4 wires) and leave the fan's lead stock.

This has the advantage that a set of T-tap and spade connector will be the right gauge size for both the power supply wires and the leads from the thing in your picture.

Be sure not to have that 2 wire thing in the photo floating around inside the TiVo with those bare pins energized and exposed.
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Old 10-24-2011, 09:05 AM   #46
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Scotch locks and other such splices are never a good idea. Best to do what it takes to make a proper crimped splice termination.

My TiVo is behind glass doors so fan noise is not a problem for me.
But when building PCs. I use zip ties (not looped) to secure the fan to the chassis, and small chassis grommets in compression to act as insulators/washers between the fan & the chassis.
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Old 10-24-2011, 04:54 PM   #47
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Replacement fan

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I would like to replace the fan in my TiVo HD XL. From what I can tell, it is a standard 70mm case fan, but it looks like it has a two pin connector. I checked NewEgg and Microcenter, but didn't see a fan like this. Does anyone have a recommendation on where I can purchase a good replacement fan? I see that DVDUpgrade and Weaknees have them for $20 plus shipping, but I'd prefer to pay less and know more details about what I am getting. Thanks.

Weaknees will sell a replacement OEM fan for $19.99 and they are a sponsor on this site.

Last edited by tds4182 : 10-24-2011 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Correct typo
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Old 10-24-2011, 06:47 PM   #48
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Scotch locks and other such splices are never a good idea.
Why not?

Quote:
Best to do what it takes to make a proper crimped splice termination.
You do understand we're talking about adding a hard drive fan (that probably comes with a 4 pin Molex connector or passthrough) to a TiVo that only has a SATA power lead?

Quote:
I use zip ties (not looped)
There's more than one way to use a zip tie?
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Old 10-24-2011, 07:30 PM   #49
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Why not?

Even "properly sized" they can cut individual strands of wire which is not good.

If I had to splice wire and only had scotch lock or wire nut as options. I'd use a wire nut, over any kind of self stripping connector.

But that's just me... your mileage will vary.
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Old 10-24-2011, 08:10 PM   #50
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Even "properly sized" they can cut individual strands of wire which is not good.

If I had to splice wire and only had scotch lock or wire nut as options. I'd use a wire nut, over any kind of self stripping connector.

But that's just me... your mileage will vary.
We aren't talking about splicing wires, we're talking about tapping into them.

And what I'd do on DC circuits 50V and under at no more than a couple or four amps is not necessarily what I'd do on 120 or 240V AC circuits.
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:37 PM   #51
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Back to the TiVo case fan, my JMC arrived yesterday and I just put it in. This thing is straight out of the Milford Academy--I'd never know it was there. Sys Info says it's running at 35°C (Normal). I've had it plugged in for about 15 minutes. The fan is currently pointed towards me and is about 3 feet from my ear and I can't hear it.

For future reference, the seller is mitek-products. Though it was delayed several days by USPS, the seller shipped quick and did everything else you can expect for in a seller. Plus it's less than half what WeaKnees wants for the same thing.
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Old 11-19-2011, 01:19 PM   #52
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I replaced the fan in my TiVo HD earlier this year, and I used the Acoustifan referenced in this thread:

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb.../t-442600.html

It's been running for months now and it's silent.
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Old 11-19-2011, 02:55 PM   #53
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If you're going to pay $24 for a fan you might as well buy an actual Tivo replacement fan and get 3 of them while you're at it for that price.
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Old 11-19-2011, 03:08 PM   #54
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If you're going to pay $24 for a fan you might as well buy an actual Tivo replacement fan and get 3 of them while you're at it for that price.
Yabut, that one is dust proof!
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Old 12-02-2011, 06:27 AM   #55
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Back to the TiVo case fan, my JMC arrived yesterday and I just put it in. This thing is straight out of the Milford Academy--I'd never know it was there. Sys Info says it's running at 35°C (Normal). I've had it plugged in for about 15 minutes. The fan is currently pointed towards me and is about 3 feet from my ear and I can't hear it.

For future reference, the seller is mitek-products. Though it was delayed several days by USPS, the seller shipped quick and did everything else you can expect for in a seller. Plus it's less than half what WeaKnees wants for the same thing.
Did same here with the fleabay $7.50 JMC fan and it's been working great, very quiet.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:50 PM   #56
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Perhaps thin little rubber washers, 2 per fan screw, one outside the case, one inside.

Peel back the label on the non-blade side and check for adequate lubrication.

I recommend a mixture of light grease and light oil (like sewing machine oil or 3-in-1).
Stumbled upon this thread looking for a part number for the fans in my Tivo HD and Premiere XL.

After seeing the comment regarding oiling the fan, I did just that. After peeling off the label, there was actually a little rubber plug there. I put in a drop of 3 in 1 oil, replaced the plug and label and reinstalled.

I've only done the Premiere XL so far, but now the fan is dead silent!

Thanks for the suggestion.

edit: Just did the JMC OEM fan in the Tivo HD and it is now silent as well.

Last edited by JonHB : 10-31-2013 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:56 PM   #57
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Stumbled upon this thread looking for a part number for the fans in my Tivo HD and Premiere XL.

After seeing the comment regarding oiling the fan, I did just that. After peeling off the label, there was actually a little rubber plug there. I put in a drop of 3 in 1 oil, replaced the plug and label and reinstalled.

I've only done the Premiere XL so far, but now the fan is dead silent!

Thanks for the suggestion.
I'm not sure how long just the oil will be good for, which is why I recommend the light grease for body and the light oil to keep it slippery.
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