TiVo Community
TiVo Community
TiVo Community
Go Back   TiVo Community > Main TiVo Forums > TiVo Series3 HDTV DVRs
TiVo Community
Reply
Forum Jump
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-23-2013, 07:11 PM   #1
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
TiVo HD DVR - No Video Output

I have a TiVo HD DVR TCD658000 which was working fine awhile ago; now, though, it no longer generates video output.

When I power up the unit, the green power light comes on and the hard drive/drive fan starts. However, no video output is generated; the attached TV screen is black. There's no post/startup at all - just a black screen.

Also, when I push the format button on the front of the unit, no format indicating lights light up; finally, when I use the TiVO remote, none of the lights flash on the front screen.

I'd like to know what might be wrong with my TiVO and whether or not it's worthwhile fixing. The TiVO has a lifetime subscription.

In case it matters, I used to have a hard drive expander attached to this unit - currently no hard drive expander is attached. I'm pretty sure that this isn't related but I thought I'd mention it.

One last observation - upon closer inspection, it looks light the green power light is very rapidly flashing - it's not solidly lit. Might this be a power supply issue?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Last edited by hankinsohl : 10-23-2013 at 07:18 PM.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2013, 08:02 PM   #2
ThAbtO
TiVoholic by the bay
 
ThAbtO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,690
Yes, the power supply is suspect.
__________________
Series 2 (PLS, sold)
TiVo HD 1TB (157 HD Hrs, PLS, "652")
Roamio! Oh, wait, Its Juliet!

~~~~~

The TiVo Apocalypse begins on Sat 2013 Feb 16 00:00 GMT!
ThAbtO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-23-2013, 10:27 PM   #3
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Any Way to Test Power Supply

I pulled the cover off my TiVO and looked at the power supply. Visually, all of the capacitors appear to be fine (no bulging/leaking fluids).

Before I spend $100 on a new power supply, is there a good way to test the power supply to verify that it's bad? I have a multi-meter but I've no idea really how to use it to test the power supply.

Thanks in advance for any help.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 01:12 AM   #4
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
I pulled the cover off my TiVO and looked at the power supply. Visually, all of the capacitors appear to be fine (no bulging/leaking fluids).

Before I spend $100 on a new power supply, is there a good way to test the power supply to verify that it's bad? I have a multi-meter but I've no idea really how to use it to test the power supply.

Thanks in advance for any help.
First of all, you should use the yellow jack on the back to connect to some sort of video display that offers that same yellow jack input.

That's composite, the lowest common denominator of video connections, and if you're going to see anything, you'll see it on that.

You want to set that meter to DC Volts 0-15, or 0-20, or 0-25, something like that.

Take the black lead, which should be plugged into the - jack, and either alligator clip it to the chassis on the side opposite the power supply, or find a hole on that side you can friction fit it into.

Then the red lead should be plugged into the meter's + jack.

Stand so that the hand that's going to hold the red lead is along a line with the place on the motherboard where the power supply plugs on, and the other side of your body is even further away from the power supply than that, and stick that hand in your pocket when making the measurements.

You can stick the red lead's metal tip down into the individual holes the wires run into in the plug that plugs into the socket on the motherboard until it makes contact with the metal tip crimped onto the end of the wire.

That's called backprobing, cause that's the back of the plug.

The front, of course you can't get to because it's plugged into the motherboard socket.

Since it's what's called a switch-mode power supply it has to have a sufficient load connected to work properly.

The yellow wire is supposed to be +12 Volts, the red wires 5 Volts, and the orange wire, if it uses that, should be 3.3 Volts.

Check those three voltages with the combo data and power plug pulled out of the hard drive and then check them again with the hard drive plugged back in.

I doubt your readings will be exactly 12 or exactly 5 or exactly 3.3, but they should be close, either above or below, and shouldn't change much with or without the hard drive connected to power.

Report back.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 04:19 PM   #5
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Are These Readings Normal?

I tested the power supply as described in the previous post.

With the hard drive disconnected, the power supply emitted a clicking sound. The voltage reading on the yellow wire fluctuated quite a bit, reading between say 5 and 8 volts or so.

With the hard drive connected, the clicking sound went away and the yellow wire read 11 volts.

Are these readings normal? Is the clicking sound expected? Should I have read 12 volts with the drive connected?

Thanks in advance for your help.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 06:26 PM   #6
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
I tested the power supply as described in the previous post.

With the hard drive disconnected, the power supply emitted a clicking sound. The voltage reading on the yellow wire fluctuated quite a bit, reading between say 5 and 8 volts or so.

With the hard drive connected, the clicking sound went away and the yellow wire read 11 volts.

Are these readings normal? Is the clicking sound expected? Should I have read 12 volts with the drive connected?

Thanks in advance for your help.
You should have gotten a lot closer to 12 than to 11.

The clicking sound is probably the supply turning on and off.

Ordinarily it would do so because it didn't have enough of a load (or way too much of a load), but ordinarily the motherboard would be sufficient, at least for a while.

It's not absolutely impossible that something on the power supply circuit board other than bad caps is responsible, but bad caps are at the top, middle, and most of the bottom of the charts.

The power supply board should say either AcBel or 3Y Power Technology. let me know which one and also the model number just in case there's a 3rd model I don't know about, and then I can make you a list of the ones that are group among which the bad one or ones will be.

They probably won't all be bad, yet, but doing them en masse like that will be sure to get the one that is or the ones that are.

Edit to add:

I assume the 5 V and 3.3 V rails measured okay with and without the drive connected?
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 08:51 PM   #7
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
More Info

Thanks for the help Unitron!

The orange wire reads 3.3V and the red reads 4.7V with the drive attached.

Here's a picture of the large capacitor:


And one of some small capacitors:


The capacitors look OK to me but I suppose that they might be damaged with no visible indication.

The part number is 3Y Power P/N: 38S0158312GP Rev. 1


Note: Elsewhere on the board "CP-1319R2" is printed - I'm guessing that this later is actually the power supply part no.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Large-Cap.jpg (23.3 KB, 6 views)
File Type: jpg Small-Caps.jpg (23.0 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Part-No.jpg (10.0 KB, 5 views)

Last edited by hankinsohl : 10-24-2013 at 08:56 PM.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #8
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
One Last Question

Is it possible that my hard drive is bad and/or has unreadable data on it and that this is causing the problem?

Since, when I power my TiVO I'm not seeing any video output I assumed that the hard drive is OK - I read somewhere that even with a bad hard drive you'd see startup/post video output - I'm only seeing a black screen with wavy lines.

The reason I'm focusing on the hard drive is that I used to have a drive expander hooked up to this TiVO. I simply removed the drive expander and expected that my TiVO would detect this and offer to reformat the hard drive. Instead - just a black TV screen.

Thanks once more for any help.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-24-2013, 11:29 PM   #9
ThAbtO
TiVoholic by the bay
 
ThAbtO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 4,690
If it was the drive, the Tivo would be rebooting instead of blank screen. The power you tested should be getting 5 and 12 volts.
__________________
Series 2 (PLS, sold)
TiVo HD 1TB (157 HD Hrs, PLS, "652")
Roamio! Oh, wait, Its Juliet!

~~~~~

The TiVo Apocalypse begins on Sat 2013 Feb 16 00:00 GMT!
ThAbtO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 01:35 AM   #10
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Capacitor List for CP-1319R2

Does anyone have a list of the capacitors I should replace for a CP-1319R2 power supply (TiVO TCD658000 HD DVR)?

If a mouser project exists for this can someone post a link to it?

Thanks in advance for your help.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 05:39 AM   #11
ciper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,010
With no drive attached the tivo will show the welcome screen for 5-10 seconds and then a solid grey screen.

You forgot the picture of the caps on the other side of that big heatsink, near where all the wires attach. Those are usually the first to start dying.

I just replaced the capacitors on the same style of power supply. I significantly overrated all of them because I was lazy and thats what Frys had in stock
5x 10v 2200uf replaced with 25v 3300uf
2x 10v 1000uf replaced with 25v 2200uf
1x 16v 1000uf replaced with 25v 2200uf
1x 16v 470uf replaced with 16v 1000uf
These are all the important ones on the DC side of the power supply.

Last edited by ciper : 10-25-2013 at 06:09 AM.
ciper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 05:43 AM   #12
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Correction to Voltage Measurements

In the post above, I was measuring voltages with the power supply disconnected from the motherboard.

Here are the results with the power supply connected to the motherboard:

No Hard Drive Attached:
Yellow - 12.3V
Red - 4.9V
Orange - 3.34V

Hard Drive Attached:
Yellow - 11.9V
Red - 4.9V
Orange - 3.34V

Do these voltages look OK?

Just for grins, I inserted an M-Card into my TiVO and hooked it back up to my TV. When power was applied I still get the black screen with squiggly lines.

And, I then tried powering up with the hard drive disconnected. Same exact behavior - black screen with squiggly lines.

The only indication that the power supply might be bad is that the green light on the front of the unit is pulsing quite rapidly - from a distance it appears to be solidly lit, only upon close inspection is the pulsing noticeable.

At this point I'm guessing that the motherboard is hosed. Any other thoughts?
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 05:56 AM   #13
ciper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
Hard Drive Attached:
Yellow - 11.9V
Red - 4.9V
Orange - 3.34V

Do these voltages look OK?
Those seem fine. Its basically a small computer ATX power supply. The limits for a regular ATX power supply are
12v spec 11.40-12.60
5v 4.75-5.25
3.3v spec 3.135-3.465

How are you attaching it to the TV?
ciper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 06:02 AM   #14
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
RE: Attaching to TV

>> How are you attaching it to the TV?
I'm using an HDMI cable. This same cable works fine with my other TiVO so the cable is definitely OK.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 06:06 AM   #15
ciper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
>> How are you attaching it to the TV?
I'm using an HDMI cable. This same cable works fine with my other TiVO so the cable is definitely OK.
Connect it using composite or component and see what you get
ciper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 06:22 AM   #16
sfhub
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,268
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
>> How are you attaching it to the TV?
I'm using an HDMI cable. This same cable works fine with my other TiVO so the cable is definitely OK.
I've read some people complain the have connector issues where they need to "lift" the HDMI cable plug to make proper connections.

If you are debugging always use svideo/composite as you'll always get video during startup (unless something is broken)
sfhub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 06:27 AM   #17
sfhub
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,268
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciper View Post
With no drive attached the tivo will show the welcome screen for 5-10 seconds and then a solid grey screen.

You forgot the picture of the caps on the other side of that big heatsink, near where all the wires attach. Those are usually the first to start dying.

I just replaced the capacitors on the same style of power supply. I significantly overrated all of them because I was lazy and thats what Frys had in stock
5x 10v 2200uf replaced with 25v 3300uf
2x 10v 1000uf replaced with 25v 2200uf
1x 16v 1000uf replaced with 25v 2200uf
1x 16v 470uf replaced with 16v 1000uf
These are all the important ones on the DC side of the power supply.
Are you sure upping the capacitance is a good idea? It would seem to change the electrical properties the circuit was designed to operate with.

The upped voltage is fine since that is the tolerance of the capacitor and normally wouldn't affect the circuit.
sfhub is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 06:32 AM   #18
ciper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by sfhub View Post
Are you sure upping the capacitance is a good idea? It would seem to change the electrical properties the circuit was designed to operate with.
If you follow the traces on the bottom of the power supply you will see that it's an extraordinarily simple design. Many of the capacitors are ran in parallel to each other and there are a couple spots on the board where a capacitor was supposed to go and was never installed.
The only problem I can imagine is that since these are larger there will be less airflow between them.
ciper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 08:55 AM   #19
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Output from Component

I attached the TiVO to my TV using the component cable which came with the unit.

Here's what it looks like:


I'm pretty sure my motherboard is fried since the power supply voltages check out and I'm not getting any video output. Does this diagnosis seem right or might it be the power supply/hard drive after all?

Thanks again for the help.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 10:04 AM   #20
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by sfhub View Post
Are you sure upping the capacitance is a good idea? It would seem to change the electrical properties the circuit was designed to operate with.

The upped voltage is fine since that is the tolerance of the capacitor and normally wouldn't affect the circuit.
Changing the capacitance that much is not a good idea because it puts extra load on the power supply--the higher the capacitance the more charge it can hold which means more current being drawn during the charge portion of the cycle, current that has to be supplied by the switching transistors and current that's being diverted from the drive and motherboard.

In other words, it does indeed "...change the electrical properties the circuit was designed to operate with."

Going up a step in voltage rating isn't the end of the world, but when I say step I mean the next industry "standard", not "as much higher as you feel like".

The next step after 10V would be 16, and then 25 after that, then 35, and then 50.

Electrolytic capacitors need to be subjected to voltage below, but near, their rating to keep the electrolyte properly formed.

I wouldn't replace a 10 Volt cap with anything higher than a 25 Volt rated one (at the same uF) except for short time test purposes.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 10:08 AM   #21
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by ciper View Post
With no drive attached the tivo will show the welcome screen for 5-10 seconds and then a solid grey screen.

You forgot the picture of the caps on the other side of that big heatsink, near where all the wires attach. Those are usually the first to start dying.

I just replaced the capacitors on the same style of power supply. I significantly overrated all of them because I was lazy and thats what Frys had in stock
5x 10v 2200uf replaced with 25v 3300uf
2x 10v 1000uf replaced with 25v 2200uf
1x 16v 1000uf replaced with 25v 2200uf
1x 16v 470uf replaced with 16v 1000uf
These are all the important ones on the DC side of the power supply.
With no drive attached it'll usually just sit there on the welcome screen until the cows come home.

If the drive is attached, but there are problems with the motherboard communicating with it, that will produce the uniform gray screen, or it will cause an endless cycle of reboots, depending on exactly what the problem is.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #22
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
In the post above, I was measuring voltages with the power supply disconnected from the motherboard.
That's almost always a no-no with switch-mode power supplies like the TiVo uses.

Switch-mode supplies need to have a sufficient load attached.

You can run it with the motherboard connected and the drive disconnected for short periods for test purposes, but try to avoid the other way around, and definitely don't do it with both the motherboard and the drive disconnected.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post

Here are the results with the power supply connected to the motherboard:

No Hard Drive Attached:
Yellow - 12.3V
Red - 4.9V
Orange - 3.34V

Hard Drive Attached:
Yellow - 11.9V
Red - 4.9V
Orange - 3.34V

Do these voltages look OK?
That's definitely more like it, although it's possible that the DC reading is in the ballpark but at least one of the outputs has too much AC "ripple" in it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post

Just for grins, I inserted an M-Card into my TiVO and hooked it back up to my TV. When power was applied I still get the black screen with squiggly lines.

And, I then tried powering up with the hard drive disconnected. Same exact behavior - black screen with squiggly lines.

The only indication that the power supply might be bad is that the green light on the front of the unit is pulsing quite rapidly - from a distance it appears to be solidly lit, only upon close inspection is the pulsing noticeable.

At this point I'm guessing that the motherboard is hosed. Any other thoughts?
Well, some kind of video seems to be getting sent out.

But that pulse in the LED on the front leads me to suspect power supply trouble before motherboard trouble.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 10:25 AM   #23
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
I attached the TiVO to my TV using the component cable which came with the unit.

Here's what it looks like:


I'm pretty sure my motherboard is fried since the power supply voltages check out and I'm not getting any video output. Does this diagnosis seem right or might it be the power supply/hard drive after all?

Thanks again for the help.
By component you mean the Red, Green, Blue plug trio, correct?

What you've got there looks like a video sync pulse problem--that's the signal that tells the TV when to start sweeping each line across the screen--it's not putting the video signal result on the right place on the screen at the right time.

If you're TV has a composite input (the yellow jack), connect the TiVo's yellow jack to that and see what you get.

If you don't have a cable with yellow RCA plugs at each end, use one of the Red,Green,Blue ones--electrons don't have different colors.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 10:56 AM   #24
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
Is it possible that my hard drive is bad and/or has unreadable data on it and that this is causing the problem?

Since, when I power my TiVO I'm not seeing any video output I assumed that the hard drive is OK - I read somewhere that even with a bad hard drive you'd see startup/post video output - I'm only seeing a black screen with wavy lines.

The reason I'm focusing on the hard drive is that I used to have a drive expander hooked up to this TiVO. I simply removed the drive expander and expected that my TiVO would detect this and offer to reformat the hard drive. Instead - just a black TV screen.

Thanks once more for any help.
I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that expanders need to be attached when you go through the "divorce" process.

But let's concentrate on getting a good welcome screen without the drive attached first.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 11:02 AM   #25
unitron
Registered User
 
unitron's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: semi-coastal NC
Posts: 13,452
I've got that same 3Y board in one of my 652s.

There are 9 caps near the big heat sink that are possible suspects.

I'll try to get a list of them posted here this evening.

In the meantime look on both sides of that heat sink and check all 9 for absolute flatness on top and no bulge out of the plug in the bottom. We might get lucky and not have to replace all 9.
__________________
(thisismysigfile)


"I am altering the deal. Pray I don't alter it any further."

Darth TiVo, 14 February, 2011
unitron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 03:23 PM   #26
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Video Output

When I hook up my TiVO to the yellow composite video jack, here's what the output looks like:



Note: On first booting up, the screen is pitch black. After a few seconds, the squiggly line output appears as shown above. Also note that I haven't connected the cable TV cable or an antenna.

And here's a picture of the capacitors closer to the power cable:


Unitron - Since my re-measured voltages all appear to be within tolerance, doesn't that rule out the power supply? Originally I was measuring voltages by unplugging the power cable; I repeated the measurements (see the "Correction to Voltage Measurements" post above) with the power cable attached to the motherboard and the voltages look OK.

Thanks once more for everyone's help. Does this seem to be a fried motherboard?
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 04:18 PM   #27
ciper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by hankinsohl View Post
And here's a picture of the capacitors closer to the power cable:
It has been my limited experience that those are the ones to fail first. However they look ok in that picture. Here are some good comparison images http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
With no drive attached it'll usually just sit there on the welcome screen until the cows come home.
That is usually the case but one time I had forgotten to attach the power cable to the drives and it would show the welcome screenthen switch to a solid grey screen (over component and HDMI)

But yes his out of sync image is not normal

Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
Changing the capacitance that much is not a good idea because it puts extra load on the power supply--the higher the capacitance the more charge it can hold which means more current being drawn during the charge portion of the cycle, current that has to be supplied by the switching transistors and current that's being diverted from the drive and motherboard.
It does put an extra load on the power supply but that should only happen on startup. I'd argue that running two 7200 1tb drives in my Tivo for years was more of a burden on the power supply than topping up these caps will be. If the load pulled enough to "empty" the capacitor then the sag on that line would also get bad with the original caps right? My understanding of the situation - Lets say under normal conditions the 2200uf was normally alternating between half to full capacity. If nothing else in the unit has changed then the 3300u should then alternate between one third to full capacity and the draw during normal use would be nearly equal.
I'd rather the capacitor do its work than have something overdraw or brownout that line.

My other motivation for overspecing them is that if you have two identical capacitors at X uf and 1.5X uf the 1.5X uf will have lower ESR by default.

Last edited by ciper : 10-25-2013 at 04:24 PM.
ciper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 04:49 PM   #28
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Image Out-Of-Sync

>> But yes his out of sync image is not normal
Any thoughts on how I might fix this out-of-sync image issue? Or is it a fried motherboard and I'm out of luck.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-25-2013, 09:42 PM   #29
hankinsohl
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 23
Pulsing Green Light

I've made a video of the pulsing green light on the front of my TiVO. It can be seen here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT7Nz...ature=youtu.be

The youtube video really exaggerates the pulsing - in real life it's much more subtle and the pulses are very fast, maybe 1/10th of a second apart or so.

I also tried to check for AC voltage along the power cord using my multimeter. I got zero AC volts on all the power lines (yellow, red and orange).

Finally, just to mention this once more, the format button on the front of my TiVO doesn't do anything - none of the format indicators light up at all.

So, given the above, and noting that the DC voltages seem to be in spec, any guesses as to what's wrong? Might the power supply be bad and cause all of these symptoms and yet be within spec with respect to DC voltage output? Or is this a sign of probable motherboard failure somewhere.

Thanks once more for everyone's help.
hankinsohl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-26-2013, 12:11 AM   #30
ciper
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,010
Can someone suggest an easy way for him to read the logs? Perhaps a boot CD that is known to be able to mount partition 9? We could have him check the last entry now, then try to boot his Tivo for a while and check the log again. If the log has no changes we know its not getting anywhere.
ciper is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Forum Jump




Thread Tools


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Advertisements

TiVo Community
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
vBulletin Skins by: Relivo Media

(C) 2013 Magenium Solutions - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.
TiVoŽ is a registered trademark of TiVo Inc. This site is not owned or operated by TiVo Inc.
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:34 PM.
OUR NETWORK: MyOpenRouter | TechLore | SansaCommunity | RoboCommunity | MediaSmart Home | Explore3DTV | Dijit Community | DVR Playground |