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Old 05-25-2013, 12:50 AM   #151
Toshirick
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ERROR 9 in Wnfs

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbach View Post
What size drive are you restoring to?
I used an image I received and used DvrBars and it restored my new drive.

I then used MFSAdd in WinMFS then I get an error 9 zonemap.

What i'm I doing wrong.

any help is appreciated.

Rick

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Old 05-25-2013, 02:28 AM   #152
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Green screen on a restored drive

Ok I put the new restored drive back in the TiVo and tried it.

It says powering up then it goes almost there then the green screen that says the dvr has serious problems allow it to try to fix it and it might take up to three hours!

What did I do wrong?

thanks for all the help everyone

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Old 05-25-2013, 08:33 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toshirick View Post
I used an image I received and used DvrBars and it restored my new drive.

I then used MFSAdd in WinMFS then I get an error 9 zonemap.

What i'm I doing wrong.

any help is appreciated.

Rick






Quote:
Originally Posted by Toshirick View Post
Ok I put the new restored drive back in the TiVo and tried it.

It says powering up then it goes almost there then the green screen that says the dvr has serious problems allow it to try to fix it and it might take up to three hours!

What did I do wrong?

thanks for all the help everyone
Don't think you did anything wrong. Not sure about the error. Will have to see if I can replicate. You could let it run through the fix and see what happens. If not I pm'ed you another file. If that one doesn't work then we need to evaluate your set up and process.

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Old 05-25-2013, 11:24 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toshirick View Post
Ok I put the new restored drive back in the TiVo and tried it.

It says powering up then it goes almost there then the green screen that says the dvr has serious problems allow it to try to fix it and it might take up to three hours!

What did I do wrong?

thanks for all the help everyone
Whenever you use an image from a different TiVo, even though the same model, that image expects to boot up in a TiVo with the same TiVo Service Number as the machine from which the image was taken and the new TiVo expects the hard drive to have the same TSN stored on it as the one stored on the motherboard, so it has to do some stuff (basically set everything back to square one) to resolve the situation.

Eventually it should get everything squared away and dump you at the beginning of Guided Setup.

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Old 05-25-2013, 10:03 PM   #155
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Thanks

It is working thanks to everyone and special thanks to jmbach for all the help and images.

I have 2777 sd and 318 HD.

Rick

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Old 06-03-2013, 07:56 AM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmbach View Post
Depending on the community you are in, the local technical college or high school might do the work for you.

The local electronics (tv) shop here in my area would replace the caps for that price.

Probably solder, soldering iron, and caps are less than 20 to 25 dollars.
Thanks to the encouragement of the regular contributors to this forum, I screwed up the courage to try to do it myself. Ordered the tools and parts I would need last weekend, then went out of town on a week of vacation. Packages were here when I got back home Saturday. Replaced 3 caps (C701, C401, C402) on one of the bad P/S yesterday afternoon. When I was done, my solder joints looked as good as original - so I was probably being too hard on myself regarding my skills. Installed repaired P/S back in S3 and it has been running for last 18 hours with no random reboots. For me, the hardest part was removing the old C401 and C402 caps. Trying to hold the board in place while holding the iron and putting a little leverage on the caps to pull them free required some juggling. A prehensile tail would have been helpful. I plan to repair the P/S for the other S3 this afternoon.

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Old 06-04-2013, 10:20 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TiVoToo View Post
For me, the hardest part was removing the old C401 and C402 caps. Trying to hold the board in place while holding the iron and putting a little leverage on the caps to pull them free required some juggling. A prehensile tail would have been helpful. I plan to repair the P/S for the other S3 this afternoon.
Congratulations!

You need one of these to help remove the solder. Once the solder is pulled out then the caps are easy to remove.



$5.80 at Amazon and called a solder sucker.

Scott

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Old 06-05-2013, 12:22 AM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerronScott View Post
Congratulations!

You need one of these to help remove the solder. Once the solder is pulled out then the caps are easy to remove.



$5.80 at Amazon and called a solder sucker.

Scott
One of the things at Radio Shack actually worth having is a de-soldering iron.

Looks like a soldrering iron, but has a big squeeze bub.

You heat the solder joint with the tip while holding the bulb squeezed (adding a little fresh solder to get some flux in there helps melt the old stuff) and when it liquifies you release the bulb to suck the solder away from the joint.

Without squeezing the bulb, it can serve as a soldering iron in a pinch.

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Old 06-05-2013, 06:19 AM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
One of the things at Radio Shack actually worth having is a de-soldering iron.

Looks like a soldrering iron, but has a big squeeze bub.
Same concept but just combines the soldering iron and solder sucker into one unit.

Scott

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Old Yesterday, 04:51 PM   #160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
To test the power supply with voltmeter, hook the black negative ground lead to the unit chassis, well away from where the AC cord plugs in, and probe the plug on the motherboard where the power supply plugs into it.

Black wire=ground

Orange should be +3.3V

Red should be +5V

Yellow should be +12V
I hate to resurrect ancient threads, but this one was very helpful. I accidentally knocked out the power from my S3 that has been running for the past 9 years, and when I plugged it back in, it was stuck in the Powering Up loop.

I've tested the (expansion) HD using WD's tools and it reported no errors after a full media scan.

So I suspect the power supply. In testing, I once unplugged & replugged it quickly. The fan didn't spin up, and instead there was a ticking. If I give it a few minutes to discharge, then it ticks once or twice and then comes on. Here are the voltages I've observed:

Without HD:
orange = 3.04V
red = 5.06V
yellow = 12.81V

With HD:
orange = 3.13V
red = 5.06V
yellow = 12.34V

Without HD, ticking power supply:
orange = 2.9-3.2V
red = 3.1-3.5V
yellow = 5-9V
(all swinging wildly)

Looking at the capacitors, it seems that C401 and C402 are bulging (though not leaking).

Do others agree that it's the power supply? I was surprised that the voltages were so close to nominal.

If I decide to replace the capacitors myself, how should I go about dislodging them from the white glue that's holding them in place? (The glue on C402 has it stuck to the adjacent coil.) (I'd be tempted to go with the Weaknees replacement, but then I have to pay for return shipping and at least one person had his go bad 7 months after replacing it.)

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Old Yesterday, 06:57 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Creath View Post
*Do others agree that it's the power supply?

**If I decide to replace the capacitors myself, how should I go about dislodging them from the white glue that's holding them in place?
(The glue on C402 has it stuck to the adjacent coil.)
* 99.9% yes.

** Gently but firmly push the capacitor away from the coil. Mine were pretty stuck too, but with a little force they separate.

There are some good youtube videos about replacing capacitors.
One guy had a method of bending the caps ever so slightly back and forth until the wire fatigue failed.
At that point melting the solder and extracting the wire was easy... wish I would have seen his technique before I replaced mine.

Replace them all, not just the bulging ones.

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Old Yesterday, 07:26 PM   #162
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Peter Creath it's a S3 HD?

[QUOTE=Peter Creath;10614305]I hate to resurrect ancient threads, but this one was very helpful. I accidentally knocked out the power from my S3 that has been running for the past 9 years, and when I plugged it back in, it was stuck in the Powering Up loop.
____________________________________________________________ _

If you getting ticking you need to recap BAD. It's not good to run the supply without a load but just unplugging the hard drive you should not be getting ticking. It's only like 9 caps if would like I can post a link to mouser with the caps you will need. With all the caps and shipping it's about 16 bucks. Very easy to do if you know how to solder even not to bad if your learning. Just remember the hash marks on the board is your ground side of the cap. I have some pictures and a text file with the cap numbers, just let me know and I will put them out for you. But do me a big favor when you do this job PLEASE REMOVE THE POWER CORD FROM THE ROOM. It's not worth your life....

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Old Yesterday, 08:38 PM   #163
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Thanks, all, for the quick feedback. I hadn't considered replacing all of them, so thanks for the tip!

I found this list of capacitor part numbers from Digikey. Is that all of them? Were there multiple versions of the power supply, or can I just go from that list?

(Any reason to prefer Mouser over Digikey?)

Are those good quality capacitors? (I know how to choose capacitance and voltage, but I don't know what else makes a "good" capacitor or what other characteristics I need to match -- diameter presumably?)

Oh, and how long do I need to wait for the power supply to discharge before I start attacking it with a soldering iron?

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Old Yesterday, 10:42 PM   #164
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What model TiVo do you have S3 OLED or S3 HD? Also, does the part number on the power supply match what I had in that list (which is for the original S3 OLED)?

TiVo S3 OLED capacitor list:
3Y power supply: CP-1104 R2
TiVo PN: SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3

Scott

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Old Yesterday, 10:49 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Creath View Post
I hate to resurrect ancient threads, but this one was very helpful. I accidentally knocked out the power from my S3 that has been running for the past 9 years, and when I plugged it back in, it was stuck in the Powering Up loop.

I've tested the (expansion) HD using WD's tools and it reported no errors after a full media scan.

So I suspect the power supply. In testing, I once unplugged & replugged it quickly. The fan didn't spin up, and instead there was a ticking. If I give it a few minutes to discharge, then it ticks once or twice and then comes on. Here are the voltages I've observed:

Without HD:
orange = 3.04V
red = 5.06V
yellow = 12.81V

With HD:
orange = 3.13V
red = 5.06V
yellow = 12.34V

Without HD, ticking power supply:
orange = 2.9-3.2V
red = 3.1-3.5V
yellow = 5-9V
(all swinging wildly)

Looking at the capacitors, it seems that C401 and C402 are bulging (though not leaking).

Do others agree that it's the power supply? I was surprised that the voltages were so close to nominal.

If I decide to replace the capacitors myself, how should I go about dislodging them from the white glue that's holding them in place? (The glue on C402 has it stuck to the adjacent coil.) (I'd be tempted to go with the Weaknees replacement, but then I have to pay for return shipping and at least one person had his go bad 7 months after replacing it.)

Have we definitely established that you have an original Series 3, the TCD648250B, the one with the clock, and not an S3 HD (TCD652160) or HD XL (TCD658000)?


When you said "expansion" HD, did you mean an eSATA external, or a bigger than stock internal?

If you have at least one bulging cap, go ahead and replace all of the medium (physical) sized ones and be done with it.

However, getting the first screen and not moving on to the second one indicates a lack of proper communication between the motherboard and the internal drive (which can be caused by a bad drive, scrambled software on a good drive, a good drive but not enough power to spin it up, a bad power connection, or a bad data cable, or, I suppose, a failed SATA data port on the motherboard, or maybe even not enough power to make the port on the motherboard perform properly).

While you have it apart, you should hook the drive to a PC motherboard (holler if you have a GigaByte board, special precautions are needed) and run the drive manufacturer's own diagnostic software long test, to check the physical well being of the drive, as well as using either WinMFS or the MFS Live cd and running

mfsinfo

to check the software on the drive.

If you're running an external as well, you might need both connected for that.


Yours is the first time I've seen a +12V line and a +5V line look good and the +3.3V line be "off".

Usually the orange is okay and the yellow or the red or both are where the problem shows.


After straightening out the power supply, you might still need to run KickStart 58

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Old Yesterday, 10:59 PM   #166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Creath View Post
Thanks, all, for the quick feedback. I hadn't considered replacing all of them, so thanks for the tip!

I found this list of capacitor part numbers from Digikey. Is that all of them? Were there multiple versions of the power supply, or can I just go from that list?

(Any reason to prefer Mouser over Digikey?)

Are those good quality capacitors? (I know how to choose capacitance and voltage, but I don't know what else makes a "good" capacitor or what other characteristics I need to match -- diameter presumably?)

Oh, and how long do I need to wait for the power supply to discharge before I start attacking it with a soldering iron?
The original S3, as far as is known, only used the one model of power supply, whereas the later HD/HD XL models used the same different supply, but there are two different versions of it by two different manufacturers.

So the 648 supply should only be used in a 648, but a 652 or 658 supply can be swapped into either a 652 or 658.

The 648 supply has a gray wire for a 7.5V rail (apparently for the OLED display--the clock) that the later supplies don't have.

If there's a load (like, say, the motherboard) connected to the power supply when you unplug it from the wall, it should drain all the caps so that there's no noticeable charge still on them.

Just remember the first rule:

ALWAYS KNOW WHERE BOTH ENDS OF THE POWER CORD ARE AT ALL TIMES!

As for whether Digi-Key or Mouser is the best--the best one is the one with what you need in stock.

Both companies have had good reps since long before TiVos existed.

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Old Today, 09:47 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unitron View Post
The original S3, as far as is known, only used the one model of power supply, whereas the later HD/HD XL models used the same different supply, but there are two different versions of it by two different manufacturers.

So the 648 supply should only be used in a 648, but a 652 or 658 supply can be swapped into either a 652 or 658.
..........
Just for clarification, can either version of the HD/HD XL supply be used in any HD/HD XL box, i.e., are they interchangeble (including mounting and cabling)?

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Old Today, 11:30 AM   #168
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Have we definitely established that you have an original Series 3, the TCD648250B, the one with the clock, and not an S3 HD (TCD652160) or HD XL (TCD658000)?
Yes, I just confirmed. It's the TCD648250B, and the power supply is part number is SPWR-00008-000 Rev A3. (I didn't see "CP-1104 R2" anywhere though.)

Quote:
When you said "expansion" HD, did you mean an eSATA external, or a bigger than stock internal?
Bigger than stock internal.

Quote:
If you have at least one bulging cap, go ahead and replace all of the medium (physical) sized ones and be done with it.
OK, so not the giant one nor the small ceramic ones. Is this list all of the "medium" ones you're describing? (Are they better than the original ones?)

Quote:
However, getting the first screen and not moving on to the second one indicates a lack of proper communication between the motherboard and the internal drive... While you have it apart, you should hook the drive to a PC motherboard...and run the drive manufacturer's own diagnostic software long test, to check the physical well being of the drive, as well as using either WinMFS or the MFS Live cd and running mfsinfo...
I already ran the manufacturer's long test, no errors. Thanks for the tip about mfsinfo, I'll check that as well. (It's been a while since I poked around at MFS.)

Quote:
After straightening out the power supply, you might still need to run KickStart 58
Thanks, I wouldn't have thought of that.

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