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Old 10-09-2012, 06:34 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by snowjay View Post
Not that I'm aware of, I'd have to check the "yellow pages" to be sure.

I did pull the board to see the underside and some of those joints are awfully close. Now way I can do that with my existing iron tip but I think with a thinner tip I could do it.
They aren't that close, I could do it with a Weller soldering gun tip.

And actually the greater heat would make it easier.

Exactly what kind of iron do you have?

The power supply may or may not be your only problem but you won't know until you get it fixed.

Look around for a TV or stereo shop with a repair department and ask them if they understand why Low ESR capacitors are used in switching power supplies, and do they know about "capacitor plague".

If the answer makes it seem like they know what they're talking about, find out if they'll sell you the caps or do the job (walk in with the board in your hand).

It should be a lot cheaper than $100.

If they sell you the 3 caps for $10 they'll be making plenty of markup and saving you shipping charges and waiting.
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Old 10-09-2012, 06:46 PM   #62
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They aren't that close, I could do it with a Weller soldering gun tip.

And actually the greater heat would make it easier.

Exactly what kind of iron do you have?

The power supply may or may not be your only problem but you won't know until you get it fixed.

Look around for a TV or stereo shop with a repair department and ask them if they understand why Low ESR capacitors are used in switching power supplies, and do they know about "capacitor plague".

If the answer makes it seem like they know what they're talking about, find out if they'll sell you the caps or do the job (walk in with the board in your hand).

It should be a lot cheaper than $100.

If they sell you the 3 caps for $10 they'll be making plenty of markup and saving you shipping charges and waiting.

I have this RS 25W iron. Think I should upgrade?

I ordered the parts from Mouser so I'll give it a go when they get here.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:04 PM   #63
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I have this RS 25W iron. Think I should upgrade?

I ordered the parts from Mouser so I'll give it a go when they get here.
The tip on that thing should be plenty small.

It wouldn't hurt if it were a higher wattage for more heat, but instead of getting another iron, grab one of these

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...lickid=prod_cs

and remember, when unsoldering, heat up the joint and then apply a little new solder to help melt the old.

When soldering, heat the joint and let the joint's heat melt the solder.

And you can use that solder sucker as a heat source for soldering as well. Hold it with your left hand, heating up the joint to be soldered with the iron in your right. After about half a minute, put the solder sucker on it's stand and grab the solder with your left hand while applying the iron to the joint to keep it hot and feed the solder into the joint.

And make careful notes about which cap came out of which place and which hole got the - lead and which hole got the + lead.

You do not want to install the new ones backwards, polarity-wise.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:04 PM   #64
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Thanks for the tips. I'll try to get out and get one of those desoldering irons, I usually just use the braided wire.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:35 PM   #65
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Thanks for the tips. I'll try to get out and get one of those desoldering irons, I usually just use the braided wire.
Unfortunately Radio Shack is getting their de-soldering braid from a different supplier these days.

It used to be not as good as the name brand stuff, like Chem-tronics, Tech-Spray, GC, et cetera, but it was okay. But not the stuff they have now.

You'd be better off using the braid from old TV coax and a little rosin flux.

The trick with the TiVo power supply boards, especially for the - leads which are soldered to the ground plane which is a big expanse of copper that makes a good heat sink, is to be able to deliver enough heat more than what gets conducted away to be able to get the solder to melt.

Once it melts you can rock the cap a little to pull the lead out and then do the other one and go back and forth 'til both leads are free.

Then you need to clean up the holes enough to be able to put the new leads in.
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:33 AM   #66
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Unfortunately Radio Shack is getting their de-soldering braid from a different supplier these days.

It used to be not as good as the name brand stuff, like Chem-tronics, Tech-Spray, GC, et cetera, but it was okay. But not the stuff they have now.

You'd be better off using the braid from old TV coax and a little rosin flux.

The trick with the TiVo power supply boards, especially for the - leads which are soldered to the ground plane which is a big expanse of copper that makes a good heat sink, is to be able to deliver enough heat more than what gets conducted away to be able to get the solder to melt.

Once it melts you can rock the cap a little to pull the lead out and then do the other one and go back and forth 'til both leads are free.

Then you need to clean up the holes enough to be able to put the new leads in.
I'm not sure what braid I have w/o looking, but it's not anything too new.

I've done very little soldering on boards before so this should be interesting. Most of my soldering has been on audio connections or auto wiring which is a little less precise. Although I did manage to remove a faulty temp sensor from an old PowerBook G4 motherboard without screwing it up and that was very tight quarters.
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Old 10-10-2012, 04:55 PM   #67
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So while I'm waiting for my capacitors I was reading some of the other threads and did an experiment. I popped out one of my cable cards and got it to boot first time. So hopefully the PS is the only problem and there aren't other lingering issues on the HD.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:55 PM   #68
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I'm not sure what braid I have w/o looking, but it's not anything too new.

I've done very little soldering on boards before so this should be interesting. Most of my soldering has been on audio connections or auto wiring which is a little less precise. Although I did manage to remove a faulty temp sensor from an old PowerBook G4 motherboard without screwing it up and that was very tight quarters.
Then you'll probably be fine.

The power supply board is single layer and a not very complex layout by modern standards, so if you have to learn on something in the TiVo, that's the best place.

Just remember don't get the polarity backwards and always know where both ends of the power cord are at all times.
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Old 10-12-2012, 06:47 AM   #69
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Thanks for the vote of confidence! I'm pretty meticulous and a "Mr. Fix-it" so I probably won't have any problem.

My local Rat Shack is poorly stocked so no replacement tip or desolderer. I did manage to pick up a Weller 40W iron though, with multiple tips so all was not lost.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:09 AM   #70
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I think my Series 3 with a 500 GM WD expansion drive is toast.

It was stuck on re-boot this morning. I unplugged it/plugged it back in, got that green screen warning message, then it worked for about 15 minutes.

It's now stuck on powering up and I can't get to any of the diagnostics.

Any suggestions?
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Old 10-15-2012, 05:58 PM   #71
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Then you'll probably be fine.

The power supply board is single layer and a not very complex layout by modern standards, so if you have to learn on something in the TiVo, that's the best place.

Just remember don't get the polarity backwards and always know where both ends of the power cord are at all times.

Well after a weeks worth of anticipation and about 15 minutes of work, I changed out the 9 capacitors that I ordered and the TiVo has booted. YAY!

Now lets see if my excitement is short lived...


The replacement wasn't bad at all. The joints aren't the prettiest but they work. Actually the actual joints look solid, there is just some flux residue that got on the board in a couple of spots from the desoldering braid.
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:54 AM   #72
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I think my Series 3 with a 500 GM WD expansion drive is toast.

It was stuck on re-boot this morning. I unplugged it/plugged it back in, got that green screen warning message, then it worked for about 15 minutes.

It's now stuck on powering up and I can't get to any of the diagnostics.

Any suggestions?
What exactly do you mean by stuck on re-boot?

What exactly did the green screen say?
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:01 PM   #73
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Update: I watched 3hrs of TV last night with no issues. However when I woke up this morning the clock was froze on the front of the S3 at 1:35am. Turing the TV on revealed nothing but a black screen. I rebooted and it seemed to come up but since I was headed to work I didn't have time to do any thorough diagnostics. We'll see what state it is in when I get home. I have a feeling I'm going to need a new HD and may just swap it now while it's still somewhat functioning.
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Old 10-16-2012, 01:10 PM   #74
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Update: I watched 3hrs of TV last night with no issues. However when I woke up this morning the clock was froze on the front of the S3 at 1:35am. Turing the TV on revealed nothing but a black screen. I rebooted and it seemed to come up but since I was headed to work I didn't have time to do any thorough diagnostics. We'll see what state it is in when I get home. I have a feeling I'm going to need a new HD and may just swap it now while it's still somewhat functioning.
It's not impossible to co-incidently have power supply problems and hard drive problems at the same time.
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Old 10-16-2012, 02:32 PM   #75
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It's not impossible to co-incidently have power supply problems and hard drive problems at the same time.
Yeah, I know it's not out of the realm of possibility. The failing power could certainly lead to hard drive issues as well.

I'm going to try doing a kickstart 54 and 57 and see what happens before I pull the plug on a new drive. I'm pretty confident I have no power issues now.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:28 PM   #76
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TiVo is hosed. Usually wont boot past the powering up screen and if it does boot, it maybe works for 15 minutes before rebooting again, that is of course if it doesn't get the GSOD.

*sigh*

I'm running the standard 160GB drive with a 1TB extension. Since I'm likely to lose all my recordings anyway I'm thinking of picking up that 2TB drive from Amazon mentioned earlier. I'm open to suggestions.

I realize all my settings will be gone, but what about my season passes? I can see what they are on the TiVo website or iPhone app so would that get copied back to the box? I'm hoping my cable cards will still work w/o me having to call Cablevision.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:50 PM   #77
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I realize all my settings will be gone, but what about my season passes? I can see what they are on the TiVo website or iPhone app so would that get copied back to the box? I'm hoping my cable cards will still work w/o me having to call Cablevision.
If you can divorce the external, you may be able to use your 160 rather than a downloaded image to create the new internal, thus preserving all of your settings and season passes.
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Old 10-16-2012, 08:11 PM   #78
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If you can divorce the external, you may be able to use your 160 rather than a downloaded image to create the new internal, thus preserving all of your settings and season passes.
Yeah, I figured I'd try that first, assuming I can read the drive long enough to update the new one. If I knew it would work I'd get a second 250 and keep my existing setup, but everything is a gamble...


While we are on the subject, anyway to clone a TiVo drive via a Mac? I have SuperDuper but not sure what it will do with a TiVo drive.

Last edited by snowjay : 10-17-2012 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:47 PM   #79
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Well I ordered the WD20EURS as it seems people have gotten it to work at full capacity on the S3 w/ OLED. The price dropped to $113 and it will be here Friday.


BTW, any chance my external drive could be failing causing these issues?
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:40 AM   #80
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Hi All,


I had a similar question...I've been experiencing the same problems as everyone else on this thread. I've got the Series 3 with OLED with the original 250GB internal and a 1TB Fantom Green Drive (GD1000EU) as an expansion. I tried the SMART test and it couldn't finish on the first drive. I assumed after reading through several threads that Unitron's suggestion to replace the drive according to Lussie/S3-2501 method would work. But how does the expansion drive come into play? I have a spare 2TB WD20EARS AF drive, looking for any advice on how I should proceed.


Thanks!!!
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:13 AM   #81
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Hi All,


I had a similar question...I've been experiencing the same problems as everyone else on this thread. I've got the Series 3 with OLED with the original 250GB internal and a 1TB Fantom Green Drive (GD1000EU) as an expansion. I tried the SMART test and it couldn't finish on the first drive. I assumed after reading through several threads that Unitron's suggestion to replace the drive according to Lussie/S3-2501 method would work. But how does the expansion drive come into play? I have a spare 2TB WD20EARS AF drive, looking for any advice on how I should proceed.


Thanks!!!

I believe, once you upgrade the internal drive you can no longer use the external.
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Old 10-19-2012, 08:23 PM   #82
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Hi All,


I had a similar question...I've been experiencing the same problems as everyone else on this thread. I've got the Series 3 with OLED with the original 250GB internal and a 1TB Fantom Green Drive (GD1000EU) as an expansion. I tried the SMART test and it couldn't finish on the first drive. I assumed after reading through several threads that Unitron's suggestion to replace the drive according to Lussie/S3-2501 method would work. But how does the expansion drive come into play? I have a spare 2TB WD20EARS AF drive, looking for any advice on how I should proceed.


Thanks!!!
You should be able to use that EARS as a replacement internal drive.

You could try copying the internal to it with

dd

or

ddrescue

or

dd_rescue

and trying that with the external still connected.

Of course that would only give you 250GB plus the size of the external, because a byte for byte "Xeroxing" like that would mean the 2TB would have the bootpage and partiton map of a 250.

Of course you could get another 250 (or larger) and "Xerox" to it from the 2TB.

In order to save your recordings, you're going to need to rescue what's on that internal.

That's assuming that only the internal is faulty.

What you need to do is find out what brand drive is inside that Fantom and run the manufacturer's diagnostic on it to make sure it's okay, and then run the manufacturer's diagnostic on the 250 (I assume WD) to see what it has to say about it, and while you've got the lid off of the TiVo check out the power supply for capacitor plague, since that's becoming fairly common in S2s and S3s.

I'm pretty sure that using an external means having to use an internal no larger than the original, or at least one on which only that much space is used, with a partition map that looks like the one on the original and doesn't show an Apple Free partition of unused space at the end.

You know, I assume, that each of your recordings is divvy'ed up between the internal and external, so that neither drive has the entire recording on it.
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Old 10-19-2012, 09:40 PM   #83
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What a night this has been...

I get home, my new HD is waiting for me. I pull the old HD out of the TiVo and then realize I don't have any powered enclosures to power the drive after remembering 3.5" drives can't be powered by USB. So I cannabalize the My Book AV since I won't be using it. Took me a while to figure out how to get it recognized in my virtual machine and I was finally ready to go... start WinMFS it sees the drive and then tells me I need to divorce it from the external. :/ So back in the TiVo the drive goes, I boot it w/o the external and tell it I'm no longer going to use it. It does it's thing and reboots. I kill the power and go back to WinMFS. Now it starts the backup and fails right away. I check the info and it says it's not a TiVo drive.

Can you sense my frustration yet?

Back in the TiVo it goes and it won't boot back the "almost there" screen. So I reboot it and run a 57, it chugged away on that for a long time (I'm guessing something went amiss when it removed the external drive), but then it rebooted and it came back up. I was also surprised to still see a lot of my recordings. I even tried playing a few and they were really there. So I shut it down gracefully as I can (i.e. tell it to reboot and kill power when it cycles) and go back to WinMFS, it now can read the whole drive and partition info and most of all it successfully completed a backup. YAY!

While it was backing up I had the bright idea to run to Best Buy and pick up a second drive enclosure so I could attempt an mfscopy and not lose any of my recordings that I still had. Of course I get to BB and they have NO enclosures. All they had was a BlacX Duet which is a sata "tray" for two drives. So I buy that and go home. I've spent the last hour screwing with it and XP will not recognize it no matter what I do. So there was 2 hours wasted and I've got to bring it back tomorrow and figure out where I can actually buy an real enclosure.

I probably should just restore the backup and forget about it but if I can save those shows I'd like to.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:20 PM   #84
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Recordings you made before attaching the external should still be there.

Recordings made after attaching it may or may not show up as listings in Now Playing, but I've seen that happen with just an internal drive and what it was was like a table of contents where the pages after that were no longer there, even though there was still a table of contents that listed them.
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Old 10-20-2012, 03:13 AM   #85
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After mine completely died, I called TiVo and they offered a replacement for $50 (exact model), so I took them up on it. The first one arrived dead, no power whatsoever. They immediately shipped out another one and I set it up yesterday.

So far so good, so if I can get another year or two out of it, it will be worth it to me.
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Old 10-20-2012, 08:32 AM   #86
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Recordings you made before attaching the external should still be there.

Recordings made after attaching it may or may not show up as listings in Now Playing, but I've seen that happen with just an internal drive and what it was was like a table of contents where the pages after that were no longer there, even though there was still a table of contents that listed them.

Yeah, I figured prior shows would be safe. I didn't have much and had watched/deleted the most recent stuff. There were 15 shows, all of which I had already watched, but was saving for some reason. I never watched them a second time since being recorded and I figured they are probably available online somewhere so I decided not to worry about them and just did a restore which is a little easier process and not having to use iBored. Restore took about 10 minutes vs the 1hr to backup.

Drive is in, booted clean first shot and I'm watching it now and it's already recording off my to-do list. Setting says I have 318HD or 2776SD hours, so I did something right.

Lets hope this is the last time I have to open that unit for a while, but...

I do need to do a soft reboot to make sure it comes back up as I didnt run wdidle on the drive, but others with the WD20EURS said it wasn't needed, we'll see. Hopefully I don't as it might be interesting using a virtual machine.

A few random thoughts:

- with the issue I had divorcing the drives it makes me wonder if my freeze then reboot weren't being caused by the external (that is after I fixed the caps)?
- this new drive is super quiet compared to the old one and that wasn't really noisy either.
- with the 2 old drives when a recording stopped or started (and I was also watching it live) there was a noticeable pause in the live watching, for maybe a good couple of seconds. Now with this new drive there is still a pause but it's pretty quick, more like a stutter.
- thanks for everyones help! Been a while since I had to do hardware work so I'm a bit out of practice.


edit: Just performed a soft reboot and it worked as expected w/o having to run wdidle.exe on the WD20EURS.

Last edited by snowjay : 10-20-2012 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:06 PM   #87
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Unitron, Sorry, I didn't get your message until too late and then when I tried to respond, it said I had to wait until 10 posts. Well, this is post #9 now....
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Old 10-22-2012, 12:15 PM   #88
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Unitron, Sorry, I didn't get your message until too late and then when I tried to respond, it said I had to wait until 10 posts. Well, this is post #9 now....
Sounds like you found a solution with which you're happy, and that's what counts.


And when you reply agreeing with me, you'll have completed 10 posts and can PM and email other users and post links and images and all the stuff we cool kids do.


You can even have an impressively witty sig file.



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Old 10-22-2012, 08:42 PM   #89
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10 posts baby, I'm cool now...
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:07 PM   #90
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My Series 3 has started doing this tonight. I deleted the show (and cleaned out others). If it keeps happening I'm done with Tivo. My ROKU player streams just fine for free and if I can't find it there I wont watch it.

I'm really lament the loss of the old Tivo. You know-the company that actually cared about it's subscribers.
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