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Old 10-28-2010, 01:41 PM   #151
Nittany Lioness
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Well, that is what I'm trying to do; make sure.

So if I replace the power supply 2200uf 16 volt with a 470uf 35 volt,
that would be safe, since the original capacitor in that spot was 16?
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:22 PM   #152
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No - 470uf is very different from 2200uf.
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Old 10-28-2010, 06:50 PM   #153
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Originally Posted by moonchilddave View Post
I'll switch to HD once and IF they ever announce the HD TiVo they've been promising for over a year now it seems...
Same reason I am waiting to switch from my SD DTivos...
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Old 10-29-2010, 01:17 PM   #154
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To clarify the solutions here, I think there are two different problems being addressed. In my case, w/HDVR2, I had pixelization on tuner 2. It did NOT have lockup up/frozen issues that some other people mentioned.

So for pixelization issues (at least for the HDVR2 model), the 470uF 35V capacitor (available at Radio Shack, I think someone even posted the part #) soldered to a chip on the motherboard per the posts above has shown to remedy that problem.

I think for other issues about lockups/reboots, the other capacitor replacement on the power supply addresses that issue. I didn't have that problem, so I didn't bother trying it. I was only going to try that if the first fix didn't work. So far it seems to be working well. I do get a very rare pixel burp, but could be caused just as likely by a plane passing by for all I know.
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:35 PM   #155
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Anyone know of a fix for the Samsung SIR-S4080R?? I've got one that's pixelating on Tuner 2, two that aren't... It's outputting via S-video, I guess I can change that first and see if it makes a difference...
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Old 11-23-2010, 09:44 PM   #156
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Thanks to all!

I'll add my thanks to the pile for those who've spent the time to dig into the issue(s) and toss in a couple cents of my own:

Having worked in the electronics industry for 15 years myself, specifically component level repair on name brand audio, video, specialized microcontroller and satellite equipment, I can say with conviction and experience that willy-nilly component value changes are inadvisable at best, hazardous to the equipment and your home at worst.

Changing out a 22 microfarad electrolytic with a 47 microfarad may not seem to be a bad idea (larger value, better filtering or more signal passed through to the next stage), but you should always keep in mind that some engineer worked long and hard to come up with the component values used to create that wonderful piece of equipment.

An explanation: Let's take that 470 microfarad electrolytic that is being used as a filter (AC ripple reduction or signal isolation from another section of the board) and slap a 1000 microfarad in its place. We've just increased AC current flow (and DC as well, due to the leakage of the capacitor) to that location, creating a pending failure back at the voltage regulator or in a resistor in the current path, even though dropping the component in for the failed one temporarily solved the original problem. An extra 4700 microfarad capacitor immediately after a diode bridge with the wrong current rating is a set of diodes doomed to let the "magic smoke" out, and probably soon.

If any of you had a BUD (big ugly dish, for the uninitiated) with a Uniden 5000, 6000 or 7000 series receiver, you've been there... weak video, poor audio, odd flickering in the front panel display, remote control insensitivity, the works. Uniden shipped capacitor kits whenever we gave them a unit's serial number, no cost and no questions asked, after it was proven that inferior grade capacitors were the number one failure mode in every one of their TVRO receiver models. The kit contained 36 capacitors, a layout sheet that gave both the component ID and its location on the board, and concise dis-assembly and re-assembly instructions. Enough of them came through that I had it down to 15 minutes, lid off to lid on and onto the "done" shelf.

Sony never gave us that much when their blasted Walkman and Discman units started showing up at the shop...

I only wish that one of us out there had a set of prints for these wonders. Scratch that, second wish. First one is that they get off their rears and get the DirecTiVo-HD out the door!
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Old 11-24-2010, 01:28 PM   #157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MontyL View Post
Changing out a 22 microfarad electrolytic with a 47 microfarad may not seem to be a bad idea (larger value, better filtering or more signal passed through to the next stage), but you should always keep in mind that some engineer worked long and hard to come up with the component values used to create that wonderful piece of equipment.
Quite possibly you are correct, but keep in mind quite often some bean-counting moron is trying to save 1/100 of a cent, so maybe that's why there is an adequate but inferior 22uF cap, when the engineer really intended it to be 47 uF.
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Old 11-24-2010, 02:43 PM   #158
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I doubt there is any real cost difference between a 22uF and 47uF capacitor, and as Monty says, that can significantly change the working of the circuit.
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:41 PM   #159
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Just applied this fix to my hacked HDVR2 that has been set to single receiver for the past year due to pixellation. Tuner 2 is alive again and seems to be working so far, thanks for all the detailed information in this thread!
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Old 11-29-2010, 05:02 PM   #160
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Coincident with the spontaneous rebooting problem discussed elsewhere, I have been seeing an increasing problem with pixelation in recordings on certain channels (HBO and locals, it seems). I just found this thread, and while I haven't tried switching or removing cables yet, I did notice the one time I caught the pixelation happening live that it was on Tuner 2 and that when I looked at signal strength it showed Tuner 2 remaining steady at 92/93 while Tuner 1 was spiking from 92/93 to 100. Pixelation resumed on Tuner 2 when I exited testing signal strength. Most people here report that their Tuner 2 shows fluctuations between 0 and normal. Any idea what may be up with mine? (Or have I picked the wrong thread?)

One more thing: I had thought it was happening on HBO, but then I noticed in recordings that it tended to happen more on HBOe and I never saw it on HBOw, which I discovered is on a different transponder....
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Old 11-30-2010, 06:17 PM   #161
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I haven't been visiting this forum recently but paid it a visit yesterday. I've been having pixelization issues that I've tracked down to tuner #2. I did try new cables and a new LNB without success. I had the cables already and at 6.95 for a new LNB it seemed worth a shot even though my testing indicated a Tivo problem.

I saw this thread at the top of the listing, I think it was waiting for me to see it.

I decided to give the fix mentioned in this thread a shot. I found a 220uf 16 volt capacitor on an old circuit board and commandeered it. The leads were a bit short but after some fiddling around I got it to stick to the IC. Hooked it back up to the dish and gave it a try.

IT WORKS!!!!!

Thanky thanky to all!

Sad thing is I recently got a new HDTV and I suspect my series 2 DTV Tivo's days are numbered. It doesn't pixelate anymore but it is still fuzzy.

Maybe I'll put it in the bedroom with the other ancient technology (tube TV).

Thanks again to all!
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:08 PM   #162
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Thumbs up Tuner solved (fingers crossed)

For weeks now, my older Hughes Direct Tivo has been messing up on tuner 2. I have done everything, tightened wires, replaced lmb, removed wires, rebooted numerous times and nothing helped. I tried an old Tivo and both tuners were at 100. Hooked mine back up and still messed up on tuner 2. I happened upon this site and read to remove the s wire. It has been hooked up for quite a while, but it worked! I could not believe it but it has been at least an hour and both tuners are working great. Thank you all for your help!
I have added this site to my favorites.
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Old 02-02-2011, 10:00 PM   #163
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Question

Well our RCA DVR40 now has the tuner 2 pixilation issue (even on coax). So after finding and reading this post yesterday (THANK YOU!) we purchased the 470uf 35v capacitor, 60/40 rosin flux core solder, and very small 30ga wire at RS. Opened up the TIVO but can't say I'm not a little nervous soldering in such a small/tight area and being a novice. So, assuming others are still having good luck with this mod!?!?!?, please help me confirm the procedure:

1) Find and briefly heat (3 sec or less?) IC pins 3 & 7 with a solder iron to prepare/clean the surfaces?
2) Allow to cool and then return to "Tin" the IC pins leaving a small solder blob where I will be attaching the wires.
3) Strip wire insulation (little as needed) and Tin the ends that will be attached to the IC pins.
4) Hold/tape the wires to IC pin locations, hold solder iron against wire until the solder melts & connects to pins, remove iron and allow to harden/cool. Check for bridged pins and correct/clean if needed.
5) Route wires to Capacitor mounting location. Should this be directed as far away from Turner 2 as possible (opposite direction of Dmark1867 pic #3)? Can I use Super Glue to mount the Wires & Cap?
6) Cut/strip/& Tin wires to attach capacitor.
7) The capacitor has rather long leads, should these be cut/shortened? Then Tin leads.
8) I don't have a wire-wrap tool, so should I twist the wire to the cap leads? Then solder the wires to the cap (making sure polarity is right!)
9) Mount/glue the Cap.
10) Re-check all solder joints and cleanup.
11) Pray all works!!

Thanks again to all that have invested in this post and for the help!
Robert
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:05 PM   #164
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Thumbs up

Disappointed that nobody responded but wanted to report back that we completed the fix and is working great!

Thanks all!
Robert
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:55 PM   #165
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Hi Robert, Sorry no one responded, sometimes you have to try things out solo and hope for the best. I had the same experience on another forum.. I was trying to fix one of those over the air DTV converter boxes. I had to change a bunch of caps and had a few questions. Never got answers so just bit the bullet and did it and it worked just fine.

Take care
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Old 03-03-2011, 05:43 PM   #166
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Ditto here.

I should have mentioned to get a strong pair of reading glasses at the $1 store. I'm not a a soldering expert, but your method seemed sound. (Very good explanation by the way.) I ended up getting a bud to help me after my feeble attempt. We did solder the capacitor directly to the chip. We also used a fine tip soldering iron. Only other tip I would add is old phone wire trick is to twist the wires together then solder.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:20 PM   #167
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limited success

I added a 2200 uF electrolytic cap in parallel with a 10 uF tantalum (sometimes they can improve filtering, even though the capacitance is a lot smaller) across pins 3 and 7 of the filter chip. Used about 2 inches of 30 ga. wire wrap wire from the caps to the chip. There was definite improvement in tuner 2's performance, but it wasn't a complete fix. Still some pixelization, even with only composite connected, and the Sat 2 "meter" still fluctuates between 0 and 92.

I am wondering whether the 30 gq. wire has enough inductance to cause a problem, or whether having the caps located near the filter chip is a bad idea. Haven't tried replacing the caps on the PS - they look OK visually.

Anyone have any ideas what I should try next?

Has anyone thought of pulling pin 7 off the board and installing maybe a 47 ohm resistor in series with the chip's VCC+? That might improve the filtering a lot.

Any good ideas would be appreciated!
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:57 PM   #168
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Try the 470uF capacitor. That seems to work.

Also, wire wrap may not provide you decent conductance to the capacitor.
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:56 AM   #169
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Randy, I used the (1) 470uF cap with 30g wire but mounted the cap as far way and directed the leads away from the turner2 as possible, so to not cause interference. Working great here. I rarely even get one blip an hour on those channels now. Hope this helps!

Robert
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:16 AM   #170
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Will try moving the caps away, and use heavier wire after about 1" of 30 ga. Don't want to try soldering heavier gauge wire to those little SMD pins. Can't see why 470 uF would work better than 2200 uF.

Thanks for the suggestions.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:24 PM   #171
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Can't see why 470 uF would work better than 2200 uF.
Not sure either(as my electronics classes are long long forgotten, but the 470uF has worked in all cases reported in this thread. I do not recall any other capacitor being used for the solution. My guess is you are not getting good conductivity to your capacitors, so you are not seeing any improvement.
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:40 PM   #172
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Also check out Schofs analysis and hit iterative approach for his final selection of 470uF capacitor starting here:
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...69#post7410869
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:51 PM   #173
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Also check out Schofs analysis and his iterative approach for his final selection of 470uF capacitor starting here:
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...69#post7410869
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:44 PM   #174
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I will try the 470 uF cap. If it does work better it will probably not be due to the value (bigger is pretty much always better for a filter cap, within reason, unless there is some other quality difference or something). But the 470 will be in a much smaller package, with smaller diameter leads so might cause less of an interference problem.
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Old 03-10-2011, 01:49 PM   #175
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Need Help,

I took and soldered a 470uf capacitor to the u49 pins 3 and 7 now I don't have any color output though the s-video cable and no output though the rca (yellow) video cable, all items are black and white menus and programs (ones recorded before I tryed this fix) I removed the capacitor and no change, I thought it was from solder getting on other wires in the u49 ciurit took out the solder no luck. See photo



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Old 03-10-2011, 05:04 PM   #176
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Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like you might have damaged that chip, or its solder pads.
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Old 03-10-2011, 06:38 PM   #177
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My first feeble (yet gental) attempt yielded the "black and white" picture. Try gently cleaning up the solder. Heat quickly and suck up with solder wick to clean up the area. Make sure no solder is touching between pins. If after cleaning up, no color, then maybe chip is toast. (And if so, you might be able to replace it, just not easily).

My buddy has a fine tip solder pen and that worked well for the soldering job. It is a tough job (and he had lot of experience soldering), a fine tip soldering pen works well, good eyes, prob super strong magnifying glasses and and extra set of hands.

Hard to tell, but looks like there is lots of dust? You may want to try and blow that out. Also is the capacitor straight "up" in the pic ok? (not sure if that has any relation to the problem, but it looks like is it scarred on the side).
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:49 AM   #178
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Yeah that looks nasty :-( It's likely that you have bridged pins.
Also, it's hard to tell from the picture but looks like you may have soldered the wrong pin!? Pin 7(+) is closest to the three capacitors but is actually the second pin from the left (your pic looks like you soldered the 3rd?) and Pin 3(-) of course is on the other side. Look CLOSELY at the pictures on Page 5, post #134.

Hope this helps,
Robert
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:08 PM   #179
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The capacitor in the photo just has some solder on it from my attempts to remove it


Quote:
Originally Posted by ss_sea_ya View Post
My first feeble (yet gental) attempt yielded the "black and white" picture. Try gently cleaning up the solder. Heat quickly and suck up with solder wick to clean up the area. Make sure no solder is touching between pins. If after cleaning up, no color, then maybe chip is toast. (And if so, you might be able to replace it, just not easily).

My buddy has a fine tip solder pen and that worked well for the soldering job. It is a tough job (and he had lot of experience soldering), a fine tip soldering pen works well, good eyes, prob super strong magnifying glasses and and extra set of hands.

Hard to tell, but looks like there is lots of dust? You may want to try and blow that out. Also is the capacitor straight "up" in the pic ok? (not sure if that has any relation to the problem, but it looks like is it scarred on the side).

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Old 03-11-2011, 05:11 PM   #180
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Originally Posted by revansCAAD8 View Post
Yeah that looks nasty :-( It's likely that you have bridged pins.
Also, it's hard to tell from the picture but looks like you may have soldered the wrong pin!? Pin 7(+) is closest to the three capacitors but is actually the second pin from the left (your pic looks like you soldered the 3rd?) and Pin 3(-) of course is on the other side. Look CLOSELY at the pictures on Page 5, post #134.

Hope this helps,
Robert
in the photo in my earier post the captior I bought I removed it, after I found my "problems (IE black and white picture), also I hookup everything to sat 2 tuner now it is baddly pixelated and goes to searching for singal.
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