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Old 05-06-2014, 01:42 PM   #61
squint
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Originally Posted by D_vadout View Post
Soooo, I've taken it upon myself to purchase a soldering iron with a base and a solder vacuum sucker.I've been watching several videos on how to use a soldering iron and how to replace a bad capacitor but they all dealt with TV repair.
It should be fairly similar, just basic desoldering and soldering.

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Originally Posted by D_vadout View Post
It looks fairly simple which I'm confident that I will be able to fix this. I have my victory dance and theme music waiting.
The only real surprise was how the solder sometimes resisted melting. The larger capacitors will absorb more heat and transfer it to the air faster. Sometimes one leg is connected to a large ground plane and takes much more effort to melt its solder than the other leg. I have to use a wider tip and hold it against the solder in an orientation that maximizes heat transfer.

Maybe I'll make a video one day. I have one power supply and 3 Tivos enroute that will need new capacitors.
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Old 05-06-2014, 04:54 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by steve614 View Post
Good luck in your effort.

May I recommend that you go to Radio Shack (or Fry's, etc.) and look for some cheap DIY project that you can practice soldering before you actually start working on the Tivo power supply.
You may wish you had, if you don't.
Gee...thanks for that vote of confidence, lol!

I have worked with tools before. I know I haven't worked with a soldering iron before but I believe I can fix my Tivo. How hard is it to heat a pin and dab some solder on it to seal in the capacitor?

Hmm...if I never done it before.... I should ask that question after I feat my quest.

Also Radio Shack does not have anything 'cheap' that I could tinker with. If they did I would've tried.
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Old 05-06-2014, 10:13 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by D_vadout View Post
Gee...thanks for that vote of confidence, lol!

I have worked with tools before. I know I haven't worked with a soldering iron before but I believe I can fix my Tivo. How hard is it to heat a pin and dab some solder on it to seal in the capacitor?

Hmm...if I never done it before.... I should ask that question after I feat my quest.

Also Radio Shack does not have anything 'cheap' that I could tinker with. If they did I would've tried.
Take the power supply out of the TiVo.

Turn it over.

Find where the leads of a capacitor to be replaced stick through and are soldered to the copper traces.

The big one will be the ground plane, and it'll dissipate heat better than a skinny trace, so a little patience will be required.

Heat the solder surrounding the lead and the lead with the soldering iron (unless you got the thing from Radio Shack that looks like a soldering iron but has a tip with a tube coming off of it to a squeeze bulb, in which case use that instead).

Take some new solder and feed it up against the solder you're heating and the thing with which you are heating it.

It will melt more easily, since it's not attached to the lead and the mound of solder and the copper trace, all of which acts as a heat sink.

When it melts, it'll help melt the solder which is already there.

Observe lead polarity when you put the new capacitors in.

And take notes to keep track of which capacitor you've removed, so as to get the right replacement in its place.
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Old 05-07-2014, 07:46 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by D_vadout View Post
Gee...thanks for that vote of confidence, lol!

I have worked with tools before. I know I haven't worked with a soldering iron before but I believe I can fix my Tivo. How hard is it to heat a pin and dab some solder on it to seal in the capacitor?

Hmm...if I never done it before.... I should ask that question after I feat my quest.

Also Radio Shack does not have anything 'cheap' that I could tinker with. If they did I would've tried.
Sorry, I was only trying to be helpful.
I'm pretty confidant that I could repair a Tivo power supply, but it's been awhile since I've done any soldering. I wouldn't tackle the project without a little practice. I only suggested you do the same because you yourself didn't sound very confidant in your previous posts.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:08 AM   #65
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Sorry, I was only trying to be helpful.
I'm pretty confidant that I could repair a Tivo power supply, but it's been awhile since I've done any soldering. I wouldn't tackle the project without a little practice. I only suggested you do the same because you yourself didn't sound very confidant in your previous posts.
Yeah, I never repair anything that's electric and this was before I saw 'how to' videos. Those videos helped a lot.

Once I see how to do something and having it embedded in my brain I'm good to go.

When I was in high school eons ago I taught myself how to play the violin. I haven't touched a musical instrument since my college days-eons ago-but I still remember the process of playing the violin. Mind you I now have a hard time reading music but it's still there.

Likewise with changing break shoes on a car. I remember how a mechanic did it. I never had to change break shoes but I remember how it's done.
I should be good to go on this Tivo. When I get my supplies I'll been going over in my head what I will do to first in order to ease the panic I once had before I actually attack the project head on.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:44 PM   #66
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Yeah, I never repair anything that's electric and this was before I saw 'how to' videos. Those videos helped a lot.

Once I see how to do something and having it embedded in my brain I'm good to go.

When I was in high school eons ago I taught myself how to play the violin. I haven't touched a musical instrument since my college days-eons ago-but I still remember the process of playing the violin. Mind you I now have a hard time reading music but it's still there.

Likewise with changing break shoes on a car. I remember how a mechanic did it. I never had to change break shoes but I remember how it's done.
I should be good to go on this Tivo. When I get my supplies I'll been going over in my head what I will do to first in order to ease the panic I once had before I actually attack the project head on.
You're going to be like Ruby Keeler's character in 42nd Street, going out there as a kid but coming back as a star.
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Old 05-10-2014, 03:36 PM   #67
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OK! I'm in a panic. I have a 110-120 v soldering iron and is having the hardest time trying to get the solder to melt. It's like the soldering iron keeps cutting off. I was able to remove ONE capacitor and now I can't seem to get the solder hot enough to be able to loosen so I can remove the rest of the capacitors. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong and if there's another way to get these caps off w/o having to heat things up. I've been trying to remove these blasted things since this morning.
I have a soldering iron and a vacuum sucker. That's it.
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Old 05-10-2014, 04:49 PM   #68
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OK! I'm in a panic. I have a 110-120 v soldering iron and is having the hardest time trying to get the solder to melt. It's like the soldering iron keeps cutting off. I was able to remove ONE capacitor and now I can't seem to get the solder hot enough to be able to loosen so I can remove the rest of the capacitors. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong and if there's another way to get these caps off w/o having to heat things up. I've been trying to remove these blasted things since this morning.
I have a soldering iron and a vacuum sucker. That's it.
For what wattage is your soldering iron rated?
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Old 05-10-2014, 04:56 PM   #69
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If necessary, one can use this tool to both unsolder the old caps and heat the new caps' leads and the board enough to melt solder.



http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062731

Be sure the solder you use is only tin and lead (and the rosin core), without other stuff, like silver, in it.
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Old 05-10-2014, 08:00 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by D_vadout View Post
OK! I'm in a panic. I have a 110-120 v soldering iron and is having the hardest time trying to get the solder to melt. It's like the soldering iron keeps cutting off. I was able to remove ONE capacitor and now I can't seem to get the solder hot enough to be able to loosen so I can remove the rest of the capacitors. Please tell me what I'm doing wrong and if there's another way to get these caps off w/o having to heat things up. I've been trying to remove these blasted things since this morning.
I have a soldering iron and a vacuum sucker. That's it.
A few possibilities:

Iron's tip not tinned resulting in poor heat transfer.

Iron not powerful enough. I use a 75W soldering station and a big fat tip on the most troublesome capacitors and it's still sometimes a chore to get the solder to melt.

Tip too small or not enough surface area in contact with solder you want to melt resulting in poor heat transfer.

Tip has oxidized. See:

http://www.hakko.com/english/mainten..._kotesaki.html
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Old 05-10-2014, 10:08 PM   #71
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A few possibilities:

Iron's tip not tinned resulting in poor heat transfer.

Iron not powerful enough. I use a 75W soldering station and a big fat tip on the most troublesome capacitors and it's still sometimes a chore to get the solder to melt.

Tip too small or not enough surface area in contact with solder you want to melt resulting in poor heat transfer.

Tip has oxidized. See:

http://www.hakko.com/english/mainten..._kotesaki.html
I just got the iron yesterday and used it today so it shouldn't be dirty. The wattage is 30. I have a screw on each side of the iron. My BIL told me to try not to solder where the screw side is. So I will retry tomorrow.
I also went to buy some desolder tape. It seemed like no one had it. Oh well.
So with this new found info I will retry tomorrow when Mothers Day die down and will post hopefully my successful results.
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:26 AM   #72
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I believe I fixed my Tivo but...

As you guys know I've been trying to fix my Tivo. It went down sometime in January and I just let it sit till I wanted to do something about it.

Weaknees was charging $99 for diagnostics. That didn't include the actual repair itself so I wanted to see if I could do it.

W/O you guys I wouldn't have known where to begin.

I purchased some capacitors, solder iron, rosin core-came with the iron-vacuum sucker, and a desoldering braid. That braid was horrible, btw.

Throughout the month of April and this month I had a hard time trying to remove those blasted capacitors. A 30watt iron without whatever you're suppose to put on the tip was horrible. My brother-in-law who backed out of helping me let me borrow his solder iron and I got the job done.

I then replaced the capacitors and plugged the Tivo in. Everything booted great. So I was about to do my victory dance. I restarted the Tivo and it went through the whole 35 minute process. It was taking too long and I had it uncovered so I turned it off and was going to let it cool so I can put the rest of the screws in and replug everything back up. While it was cooling off I noticed one of the new capacitors that I put in was bulging. I couldn't believe it. I got a closer look and realized the non-genius of myself-had put that capacitor on the wrong way. Sooooo I had to take that one off and put a new one in. Wasn't too pleased about that.
After that hassle was taken care of I replugged everything and went through the steps I had to do to be able to watch TV.

Well...NONE of my channels are coming out. It's acknowledging the channels but I got a gray screen. Something that I had that led me to believe something was wrong with my Tivo back in January of this year. Everything else works but my channels.
I never took out my cable cards and now my Tivo isn't reading any of them. It won't even show the analog channels that it picked up.

So now I have to wait till I get off of work to call my cable company to see if it is those cable cards. It shouldn't be b/c I never removed them but I'll have to see.

The good news is my hard drive wasn't the problem and it's not in a boot loop.

Alas my victory dance is put on hold. Again.
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:16 AM   #73
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As you guys know I've been trying to fix my Tivo. It went down sometime in January and I just let it sit till I wanted to do something about it.

Weaknees was charging $99 for diagnostics. That didn't include the actual repair itself so I wanted to see if I could do it.

W/O you guys I wouldn't have known where to begin.

I purchased some capacitors, solder iron, rosin core-came with the iron-vacuum sucker, and a desoldering braid. That braid was horrible, btw.

Throughout the month of April and this month I had a hard time trying to remove those blasted capacitors. A 30watt iron without whatever you're suppose to put on the tip was horrible. My brother-in-law who backed out of helping me let me borrow his solder iron and I got the job done.

I then replaced the capacitors and plugged the Tivo in. Everything booted great. So I was about to do my victory dance. I restarted the Tivo and it went through the whole 35 minute process. It was taking too long and I had it uncovered so I turned it off and was going to let it cool so I can put the rest of the screws in and replug everything back up. While it was cooling off I noticed one of the new capacitors that I put in was bulging. I couldn't believe it. I got a closer look and realized the non-genius of myself-had put that capacitor on the wrong way. Sooooo I had to take that one off and put a new one in. Wasn't too pleased about that.
After that hassle was taken care of I replugged everything and went through the steps I had to do to be able to watch TV.

Well...NONE of my channels are coming out. It's acknowledging the channels but I got a gray screen. Something that I had that led me to believe something was wrong with my Tivo back in January of this year. Everything else works but my channels.
I never took out my cable cards and now my Tivo isn't reading any of them. It won't even show the analog channels that it picked up.

So now I have to wait till I get off of work to call my cable company to see if it is those cable cards. It shouldn't be b/c I never removed them but I'll have to see.

The good news is my hard drive wasn't the problem and it's not in a boot loop.

Alas my victory dance is put on hold. Again.

You fixed your power supply, something almost every Series 2 and 3 owner will have to deal with if they haven't already, so that ought to be worth a at least a victory "shimmy in place" and a Woo-Hoo for the time being, and now you have the first step in troubleshooting (make sure it's not the power supply) handled, and can move on.

Sorry for not warning you about the crap Radio Shack substituted a couple of years ago for the barely adequate desoldering braid they used to carry.

There's brand name stuff out there that's actually good.

So you get boot screen and menus okay now, just not live TV?
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Old 05-20-2014, 03:05 AM   #74
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I get the feeling that declaring the power supply "fixed", and calling it "eliminated" as being the problem, or being a part of a problem, is dangerously premature.

Anybody who has ever reversed the polarity on an electrolytic capacitor, knows that the first thing that should happen is an INSTANT "BANG!", resulting in the top of the capacitor being INSTANTLY blown open, or the whole capacitor casing being launched like a hollow bullet. The facts that it didn't go instantly, had time to be reversed while powered-on, and only bulged, raises a lot of red flags, and questions.

There have been times I've been lucky to not have been being standing over the capacitor, or in it's path.

1. Were ALL the caps replaced (less the biggest one on the high-voltage side)?
2. Was there only one error made?
3. Did this DIY repair, with all the trial and error, possibly overheat things, perhaps even over-heating the new cap leads, thus damaging new caps?
4. I wouldn't trust any caps on that same voltage output rail (especially the ones in-parallel), no matter how unharmed they may appear, or for being new.
5. Whatever happened to making the first thing to be done being to get out a multimeter, and checking all the output voltages (with the PS attached to the board, of course), as well as a setting the meter to the AC scale, and checking the DC outputs for ripple, and proper filtering?

I think it is absurd to get the cable company involved. Removing the cablecard, and not being able to get channels that were there before, without requiring it (AFTER repeating guided setup with the cablecard removed), is proof that the TiVo has a problem. What responsibility does the cableco have here? I'll answer that: "NONE". A "paperclip antenna" can also be used on the antenna coax port to see if OTA works, before calling in the cableco.

I'm not trying to be harsh. I'm keeping it real, and pointing out some valid outstanding matters, which should be fully addressed, before involving the cableco at all, or declaring the PS is "fixed" or "eliminated as being the problem, or a part of the problem". That's all.
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Old 05-20-2014, 07:04 AM   #75
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I get the feeling that declaring the power supply "fixed", and calling it "eliminated" as being the problem, or being a part of a problem, is dangerously premature.

Anybody who has ever reversed the polarity on an electrolytic capacitor, knows that the first thing that should happen is an INSTANT "BANG!", resulting in the top of the capacitor being INSTANTLY blown open, or the whole capacitor casing being launched like a hollow bullet. The facts that it didn't go instantly, had time to be reversed while powered-on, and only bulged, raises a lot of red flags, and questions.

There have been times I've been lucky to not have been being standing over the capacitor, or in it's path.

1. Were ALL the caps replaced (less the biggest one on the high-voltage side)?
2. Was there only one error made?
3. Did this DIY repair, with all the trial and error, possibly overheat things, perhaps even over-heating the new cap leads, thus damaging new caps?
4. I wouldn't trust any caps on that same voltage output rail (especially the ones in-parallel), no matter how unharmed they may appear, or for being new.
5. Whatever happened to making the first thing to be done being to get out a multimeter, and checking all the output voltages (with the PS attached to the board, of course), as well as a setting the meter to the AC scale, and checking the DC outputs for ripple, and proper filtering?

I think it is absurd to get the cable company involved. Removing the cablecard, and not being able to get channels that were there before, without requiring it (AFTER repeating guided setup with the cablecard removed), is proof that the TiVo has a problem. What responsibility does the cableco have here? I'll answer that: "NONE". A "paperclip antenna" can also be used on the antenna coax port to see if OTA works, before calling in the cableco.

I'm not trying to be harsh. I'm keeping it real, and pointing out some valid outstanding matters, which should be fully addressed, before involving the cableco at all, or declaring the PS is "fixed" or "eliminated as being the problem, or a part of the problem". That's all.
Well, I'm not trying to be harsh either when I say thanks for raining on my victory parade.
I've accomplished something I never did before. With no training and a family member who backed out of helping me I say I did a pretty good job with fixing my Tivo. Nothing burned or blew up in my face which to me is a victory in itself when I never done anything like this before.
I was able to fix my Tivo w/o having to send it somewhere. I'll admit an error on my part with the capacitor being put on backwards. The stripes on the circuit board aren't in the best position to see so that's where I had the problem.
As I mentioned before I'm not electronic savvy and had some cable cords plugged in wrong. I have a 5 cable splitter that has cable cords going through my digital adapter, dvd/vcr, and my Tivo so it's a bit overwhelming trying to figure out what goes where.
In the midst of me trying to get the cable cords to go where they belong my cable company was upgrading my cable cards. With a quick call to them to send the right signal I was able to get my channels to come out right.
Right now things are looking good on my end and I now have a general idea on what to do if my Tivo goes down again.
So to the guys who gave me advice on what to do thank you so much for the patience in dealing with this non-electrical savvy gal. So far so good. If something wasn't right it would show and things are working. You guys rock!
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:11 AM   #76
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Well, I'm not trying to be harsh either when I say thanks for raining on my victory parade.
I've accomplished something I never did before. With no training and a family member who backed out of helping me I say I did a pretty good job with fixing my Tivo. Nothing burned or blew up in my face which to me is a victory in itself when I never done anything like this before.
I was able to fix my Tivo w/o having to send it somewhere. I'll admit an error on my part with the capacitor being put on backwards. The stripes on the circuit board aren't in the best position to see so that's where I had the problem.
As I mentioned before I'm not electronic savvy and had some cable cords plugged in wrong. I have a 5 cable splitter that has cable cords going through my digital adapter, dvd/vcr, and my Tivo so it's a bit overwhelming trying to figure out what goes where.
In the midst of me trying to get the cable cords to go where they belong my cable company was upgrading my cable cards. With a quick call to them to send the right signal I was able to get my channels to come out right.
Right now things are looking good on my end and I now have a general idea on what to do if my Tivo goes down again.
So to the guys who gave me advice on what to do thank you so much for the patience in dealing with this non-electrical savvy gal. So far so good. If something wasn't right it would show and things are working. You guys rock!
Ok, now you can do your victory dance, or do another one. Congrats.

I did wonder if you had verified that the actual cable you were hooking up worked on anything else, or if there was some simple explanation (after I posted, of course).

There are so many threads covering so many subjects, I can't jump in and help everybody. Unitron usually keeps tabs on things in the power supply threads. I don't have anything older than my Roamios, other than a couple of retired TiVo HDs, but stay subbed to the old threads, and try to help if nobody else jumps in.

This is from another Series 3 power supply thread, which was where my attention was for the time:

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...8#post10109898

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Since the power supply only has the printed electrical traces on the bottom side (and usually just "jumper bridges" on the top), as opposed to a multi-layer PCB with hidden connections and traces, like most computer boards (and modern TiVo mainboards), damage can be easily repaired.

Often, the heat will cause the traces to lift. Sometimes it's caused by the traces coming off the board, before the solder melts. Even the most careful professional has had this happen.

Repair method #1: Use an exacto knife to scrape the green (or other color, sometimes clear) coating from the trace, as completely as possible, using care to not create further damage. Then create a solder bridge between the points of damage. Even if there is no coating, abrading/scraping/sanding the trace makes for a better solder connection.

Repair method #2: Pretty much the same as #1, but find some fine braided copper wire, lay it across, and solder both ends. Feel free to let the solder flow into all the copper, as opposed to just the ends. This is a very reliable repair. I still use it, even if all that appears to have happened is a trace lift, without visible damage.

With either method, it's important to scrape away enough of the coating over the damaged end of the trace, and the solder and/or jumper wire, should make it all the way to where the trace is still stuck to the board. Sometimes I just cut the trace that has lifted, leaving only what hasn't lifted, and use copper braid wire, saturated with solder, to insure the integrity won't be compromised by the lifted portion(s).

You should always make sure to make the solder/wire jumper follow the same shape as where the trace was, and not use any wire thick enough to create a potential short, after installation. Making the repair jumper take the same path, helps insure against shorts, when the original traces may have been intentionally routed to avoid creating a short when installed, and the screws put in.

I will also point out that nearly every TiVo power supply I have examined, or repaired, requires the outer edge screws to be installed, or part of the circuitry remains open-circuit. It appears to be all surge-suppression related. But, I'd rather have all circuits active, than test without them being so. These screws are the ones with a tear-drop shaped metal piece that goes through the board like a rivet. So, the ones I speak of are easy to spot.

Another note: A lifted trace, can overheat and burn-through, almost like a fuseable link, when it doesn't have the board as a heat-sink.

Another note: I suppose a lifted trace could be super-glued back down. But, super glue's electrical properties are not known to me, and it tends to "creep" (migrate), and could find it's way to the top of the trace, making for a possible bad solder connection, if not completely removed from anyplace you want the solder to flow. I also just don't like working with super-glue, unless there's no other option. I've often created more damage, when I find my finger, or tool, suddenly affixed to what the glue was used on.

I one successfully repaired a TV set that has it's whole main board broken into five pieces, using the methods I describe. I used solid RG6 coax center conductor wire for strength, and once I verified It worked, I used super-glue gel to fill the board cracks in. Three years later, that TV (with built-in DVD player) still works perfectly, as my garage TV.

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Old 05-20-2014, 06:05 PM   #77
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Ok, now you can do your victory dance, or do another one. Congrats.

I did wonder if you had verified that the actual cable you were hooking up worked on anything else, or if there was some simple explanation (after I posted, of course).

There are so many threads covering so many subjects, I can't jump in and help everybody. Unitron usually keeps tabs on things in the power supply threads. I don't have anything older than my Roamios, other than a couple of retired TiVo HDs, but stay subbed to the old threads, and try to help if nobody else jumps in.

This is from another Series 3 power supply thread, which was where my attention was for the time:

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb...8#post10109898
When my Tivo bit the dust it was connected to everything that I mentioned in the prior post. Everything was working.
Since it's been out of commission for so long my brother-in-law forgot how he had it set up and he helped me work it out. Took long enough for me to realize I should take pics the next time I have to unplug everything so I'll know what to do if I have to replug everything back in.

Time Warner is in the process of updating their stuff which caused my Tivo to reboot. At first it made me nervous but right now things are still looking good.

I will be more than happy to share what I learned within the month and a half that I've been on here.
When I sit and think about it, the forums I've ever joined this one and another one(diabetic cat)has helped me faster than it would have if I had decided to do things on my own.

If I hadn't joined this one my Tivo would still be either a: collecting dust or b: me shelling out hundreds of bucks to get it fixed, and I'm glad I didn't have to resort to either one.
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Old 05-20-2014, 10:38 PM   #78
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When my Tivo bit the dust it was connected to everything that I mentioned in the prior post. Everything was working.
Since it's been out of commission for so long my brother-in-law forgot how he had it set up and he helped me work it out. Took long enough for me to realize I should take pics the next time I have to unplug everything so I'll know what to do if I have to replug everything back in.

Time Warner is in the process of updating their stuff which caused my Tivo to reboot. At first it made me nervous but right now things are still looking good.

I will be more than happy to share what I learned within the month and a half that I've been on here.
When I sit and think about it, the forums I've ever joined this one and another one(diabetic cat)has helped me faster than it would have if I had decided to do things on my own.

If I hadn't joined this one my Tivo would still be either a: collecting dust or b: me shelling out hundreds of bucks to get it fixed, and I'm glad I didn't have to resort to either one.

Just keep them mentally separated and don't try to replace the capacitors on the cat.


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Old 05-21-2014, 06:39 AM   #79
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Just keep them mentally separated and don't try to replace the capacitors on the cat.

Ya know, that would've been easier than giving her those insulin shots.

I can picture my cat now having capacitors sticking out of her fur.
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:45 AM   #80
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Ya know, that would've been easier than giving her those insulin shots.

I can picture my cat now having capacitors sticking out of her fur.
Do you know what cat fur would smell like if it touched a hot soldering iron?
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Old 05-21-2014, 06:48 AM   #81
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Do you know what cat fur would smell like if it touched a hot soldering iron?
Hmmm...there's only one way to find out.
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Old 05-22-2014, 02:40 AM   #82
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Hmmm...there's only one way to find out.
I've never actually set a cat on fire or even considered doing so, but I figure burning cat fur is going to smell about the same as any other kind of hair does when burned, which is approximately awful.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:13 PM   #83
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Hmmm...there's only one way to find out.
Run kitty run!

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Old 05-23-2014, 03:43 AM   #84
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It occurred to me much later than it should have that perhaps none of us mentioned to D_vadout the need to clip off the excess lead length on the new caps after they're soldered in so as to avoid the risk of shorting to something.
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Old 05-23-2014, 05:00 AM   #85
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It occurred to me much later than it should have that perhaps none of us mentioned to D_vadout the need to clip off the excess lead length on the new caps after they're soldered in so as to avoid the risk of shorting to something.
Those clippings also work good as trace repair jumpers. Funny, the odd things that enter my thoughts when I wake up in the middle of the night...

Also, don't feel bad that you missed that one little thing. I came up with about a dozen that should have been pointed-out to a novice/first-timer. So, don't sweat just the one.
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:46 AM   #86
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It occurred to me much later than it should have that perhaps none of us mentioned to D_vadout the need to clip off the excess lead length on the new caps after they're soldered in so as to avoid the risk of shorting to something.
Yep. One step ahead of you Unitron. Per the videos that I watched I learned to clip the legs, pegs, whatever they're called so it won't short out the board.

The beatings that I gave on the back of that board....I'm shocked my Tivo works.
It's amazing what you can learn from watching soldering videos.

Replacing all of them was a challenge. I realized the original caps weren't low ESR's.
When my BIL(brother-in-law)saw how many needed to be changed he didn't want to do it. The bad thing about that is that he never said he didn't want to. I got the hint when he kept putting it off.

Trying to get the caps off was the hardest. After that everything was a breeze. I was shocked at how easy that part was.
Needless to say I'm glad I got a chance to teach myself on how to solder.

Would I do this again?

Heezie naw!
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:13 AM   #87
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Yep. One step ahead of you Unitron. Per the videos that I watched I learned to clip the legs, pegs, whatever they're called so it won't short out the board.

The beatings that I gave on the back of that board....I'm shocked my Tivo works.
It's amazing what you can learn from watching soldering videos.

Replacing all of them was a challenge. I realized the original caps weren't low ESR's.
When my BIL(brother-in-law)saw how many needed to be changed he didn't want to do it. The bad thing about that is that he never said he didn't want to. I got the hint when he kept putting it off.

Trying to get the caps off was the hardest. After that everything was a breeze. I was shocked at how easy that part was.
Needless to say I'm glad I got a chance to teach myself on how to solder.

Would I do this again?

Heezie naw!

If you ever have an LCD TV or PC monitor quit on you, search for the model number at lcdalternatives and see if they have a cap kit already made up for it.

If they do, then that's a good indication that the problem with it is bad caps in the switching power supply, and now that you know how to replace them...

You're going to be thoroughly dangerous by the time we get through with you.
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Old 05-23-2014, 09:39 AM   #88
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If you ever have an LCD TV or PC monitor quit on you, search for the model number at lcdalternatives and see if they have a cap kit already made up for it.

If they do, then that's a good indication that the problem with it is bad caps in the switching power supply, and now that you know how to replace them...

You're going to be thoroughly dangerous by the time we get through with you.
Unitron is right. I've had to replace the filter caps on two computer LCDs, and one TV over the past few years. Bad caps made it into CRT screens/TVs, and are still showing up. I could spend all day listing every device that just needed a few dollars worth of parts, and soldering skills.

Some of them are even real major name brand name ones, or have been counterfeited so well, there's no telling the difference.

The other problems with electrolytic caps are:

1. They are only meant to last a few years in the first place (keep within their ratings).
2. They can just dry-out over time, with no external signs.
3. They can be 100% bad, and have no visible signs to indicate it.

If in doubt, and lacking a capacitor tester, replace them. If they bulge, or leak, be glad you got a visual indicator at all. If one cap is bad, those of the same brand and rating, should all really be replaced (and others given scrutiny, over whether you just want to trust them).

Consumer electronics devices will often just start operating oddly, or erratically, when caps don't hold-up. Sometimes, they seem fine until turned-off, and you go to turn them on again (and then nothing happens). So, if you have something that "doesn't like to turn back on", but otherwise works, you know what to suspect first.
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:15 PM   #89
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If you ever have an LCD TV or PC monitor quit on you, search for the model number at lcdalternatives and see if they have a cap kit already made up for it.

If they do, then that's a good indication that the problem with it is bad caps in the switching power supply, and now that you know how to replace them...

You're going to be thoroughly dangerous by the time we get through with you.
Son I'm lethal.
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:16 PM   #90
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Unitron is right. I've had to replace the filter caps on two computer LCDs, and one TV over the past few years. Bad caps made it into CRT screens/TVs, and are still showing up. I could spend all day listing every device that just needed a few dollars worth of parts, and soldering skills.

Some of them are even real major name brand name ones, or have been counterfeited so well, there's no telling the difference.

The other problems with electrolytic caps are:

1. They are only meant to last a few years in the first place (keep within their ratings).
2. They can just dry-out over time, with no external signs.
3. They can be 100% bad, and have no visible signs to indicate it.

If in doubt, and lacking a capacitor tester, replace them. If they bulge, or leak, be glad you got a visual indicator at all. If one cap is bad, those of the same brand and rating, should all really be replaced (and others given scrutiny, over whether you just want to trust them).

Consumer electronics devices will often just start operating oddly, or erratically, when caps don't hold-up. Sometimes, they seem fine until turned-off, and you go to turn them on again (and then nothing happens). So, if you have something that "doesn't like to turn back on", but otherwise works, you know what to suspect first.
Could you do the same for a computer monitor if it goes out?
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