Originally Posted by D_vadout
There was a thread where a poster posted the capacitors. I just copied and pasted the info from there to eBay. I did the same for Digikey and that's how I got the capacitors. Here's what I ordered:
2200uF 6.3V 105°C Electrolytic Capacitor---I ordered 3
3300uF 10V 105°C Electrolytic Capacitor----I ordered 5
2200uF 25V 105°C Electrolytic Capacitor----I ordered 5
470uF 16V 105°C Electrolytic Capacitor----I ordered 5
1000uF 6.3V 105°C Electrolytic Capacitor---I ordered 5
Please tell me these are right...pretty pretty please!
My brother-in-law does have the solder iron with the rosin core thingie.....My electrical terminology is amazing isn't it?
I do need a pic that will tell me which capacitors to replace. I don't remember seeing one. I know there's other pics on the net but none says 'here's the capacitors you need to replace'. That would be awesome.
Okay, to save me taking my S3 apart, here's HerronScott's list
C401 2200uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FR0J222 Digikey P14365-ND $0.81 (Alternate: P15308CT-ND?)
C402 2200uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FR0J222 Digikey P14365-ND $0.81 (Alternate: P15308CT-ND?)
C601 2200uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C222 Digikey P14402-ND $1.01
C701 2200uF 25V Panasonic EEU-FR1E222L Digikey P14428-ND $1.43
C501 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C502 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C503 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C50? 3300uF 10V Panasonic EEU-FR1A332 Digikey P14383-ND $1.01
C603 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 Digikey P14394-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)
C702 470uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FR1C471 Digikey P14394-ND $0.49 (Alternate: P15342CT-ND?)
C403 1000uF 6.3V Panasonic EEU-FM0J102 Digikey P12340-ND $0.51
Which works out to
2 2200uF at 6.3V, leaving you with one spare
1 2200uF at 16V and 1 2200uF at 25V, you can get away with using a 25V 2200uF for the 16V one (you can go up in voltage a little bit, but never down), so that leaves you 3 spares.
4 3300uF at 10V, so that leaves you one spare
2 470uF at 16V, so you've got 3 spare
and 1 1000uF at 6.3V, so you've got 4 spares on that
so I'd say you're covered.
Since the ones you're getting are rated for 105 degrees, they're probably low ESR. Almost any application that needs caps that can handle more than the usual 85 degree rating of general purpose replacement caps is going to need them to be low ESR, so making them low ESR is probably how they achieve the high temp rating.
Maybe someone will make you an offer on your leftovers.
If you've managed to get the cover off of the TiVo already to eyeball the power supply caps and spot the bulging ones, I don't need to explain how snugly it fits and how you might have to use a small pry bar on the back, and also you know which is your #10 Torx bit, cause that's the one you used on the screws that hold the cover.
Put those screws in a little aspirin bottle or similar to keep them corralled.
Use that same Torx bit on the 6 or 8 screws that hold the power supply circuit board down to the chassis, put them in a different bottle, and then use a slightly smaller #8 or #9 Torx bit to take out the small, dark screw that goes in from the outside just above where the power cord plugs in and put it in the same bottle.
There are a bunch of different color wires that come off of the power supply, most of which go to a plug that plugs onto the motherboard. There's a lever thing on the side of the plug--squeeze that so that it unlatches from the socket, and then rock it just a little side to side and work the plug out of the socket.
The rest of the wires, 2 black, one red, one yellow, go over to the hard drive where they become part of a plug that also has the SATA data cable coming out of it. Disconnect the other end of that data cable from where it plugs onto the motherboard--there might be a latch thing you have to squeeze--then work that combo plug off of the back of the hard drive.
At that point you should be able to remove the power supply board.
HerronScott's list includes the numbers silkscreened onto the power supply board next to where the caps mount so that once you unsolder and remove a cap you'll be able to see the number if you couldn't already.
The white stuff that looks like marshmallow creme stuck to the side of some of the caps is just a kind of glue to hold them in place at the factory while they're getting soldered, and is no longer needed--you can bust it off with pliers or diagonal cutters.
Where the caps mount there's a circle silkscreened on the board and half of that circle is has hatch lines. That's the side with the hole where the negative lead of the new capacitor goes.
I don't know if the caps you get will have a row of + marks down one side to indicate the positive lead, or if it'll have a stripe with a bunch of - marks to indicate the negative lead, but an electrolytic capacitor with two leads has one positive lead and one negative lead and you have to be sure to connect the right one in the right place.
Replace them one at a time, make sketches of location and notes of which ones you've done.
That one where HerronScott wasn't sure about the C number on the board, you'll figure it out by process of elimination.
Once you get a new cap soldered in, you'll need to clip off the extra lead length sticking up (or down when it turned right side up) so they don't short against anything.
If your BIL has a soldering iron, he's probably got wire strippers that'll do it, or wire cutters or something.
And there's a white ribbon cable that comes from the front panel display and plugs into a socket near the front of the motherboard.
Take care not to bump into it and dislodge it even slightly from the socket, and be sure it's seated fully and squarely into that socket.