Made the "white cable" mistake - Question

[chris1434]

I made the "white cable" mistake during an upgrade and blew the L31 inductor/resistor on a dual tuner Series 2 tivo.

I have access to the capability to do the repair but need a little bit of info. There are 2 "solder pads" for the L31 inductor. The one farthest away from the connector appears to have been melted completely away when it shorted. I can't see where there is anything left on the board to connect a jumper to. Can anyone tell me the circuit path of the L31 circuit? In other words, I am thinking of jumping directly from either the connector or the solder pad closest to the connector to somewhere downstream in the L31 circuit. All help is much appreciated.

[classicsat]

On my Series 2 140 and 240 units, it is +5V.

[chris1434]

Thanks for the reply! Any idea where else I could jump to on the board to complete the circuit?

[David_NC]

On the dual Tuner series 2, model TCD649080, as far as I can tell, one end of L31 goes to pin 4 of the ribbon cable connector, and the other end goes to C902 (the end that is directly in line with the pads for L31). That end of C902 appears to go to 5V, and the other end goes to ground, using an ohmmeter and measuring to the pins on the hard drive power connector.

[chris1434]

Thanks for the reply. The board is with a friend of mine who can do the SMT work. He was going to try to trace it. I will give him this info. If I understand you correctly, I could jump straight from pin 4 to the 5V end of
C902 (which would supply 5V to the 4th pin). Thanks again. I will post back with whatever I find out (or more questions).

[chris1434]

The remote function is now working!! A big THANKS to classicsat and a huge THANKS to David_NC. Based on the info they provided, I used a single strand of CAT5 to jump between the 4th pin of the connector and the left end of C902 (straight out from the 4th pin and right next to the end of L31 that blew off the board). I am attaching pictures that hopefully make this a bit more clear. Powered it up and the remote seems to be working fine. I didn't really have the right soldering equipment so I may redo it or take it back to the guy who can do the SMT work to make it more clean but it is making a solid connection.

[flatcurve]

Nice work!