You need high temp (105 degrees), low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) electrolytic capacitors at the same uF rating and the same Voltage or the next step or two up. Do you know enough to be able to find where the red (+5V), yellow (+12V), and black (ground) wires are soldered to the power supply circuit board and trace the copper areas on the bottom to tell which caps have their negative leads connected to ground and their positive leads connected to the 5 or 12 Volt outputs? Those are the ones (total of 3 or 4, probably) most likely to be bad or on the way, and you might as well do all of them at once. That's if they are the brand they say they are but have the faulty electrolytic. (see the wikipedia article on "capacitor plague") That 25V one may be further upstream than an output, but it may also be counterfeit, which would explain why it failed. I can hook you up with a guy in Raleigh I've been buying from. email me at coastalnet.com Or you can go with Mouser or Digi-Key or Jameco or MCM, or the guy at badcaps.net or the guy at lcdalternatives.com Also, you need to take into consideration height and diameter to make sure what you get will fit. Measure in millimeters. The caps under the heat sink overhang, which are the hardest to get in and out, are of course the most likely to go bad.