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Series 3 stuck in "Welcome! Powering up..." loop

Discussion in 'TiVo Series3 HDTV DVRs' started by mpthompson, Nov 12, 2011.

  1. May 17, 2012 #61 of 223
    lpwcomp

    lpwcomp Active Member

    8,081
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    May 6, 2002
    John's...
    Before swapping the PSU, I would power up the "working" unit and perform the same voltage checks.
     
  2. May 17, 2012 #62 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

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    I KNEW there was a good reason we were keeping you around.:)
     
  3. May 18, 2012 #63 of 223
    elmariachi

    elmariachi New Member

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    Jul 30, 2009
    Well I picked up a "working" unit off of craigs for $10. Went and checked the voltage of the donor unit and it was at 12.07 dvc with no bulging capaitors. Swapped it over to my unit and hooked it up to the tv. After several tense minutes of waiting to see if it will get past the "Welcome" screen it does:). Takes a while to do its song and dance aquiring sat signal, etc. but I am back in business watching tv...for about 20 minutes:(. The picture starts to get pixelated, choppy, and the remote won't do it's thing. The button on the unit does nothing as well when pressed. After a while the unit goes to a black screen and reboots only to repeat the entire process again.

    I guess the HD is toast. Can any info be salvaged off the OG HD? I'm surprised the HD lasted as long as it did - almost 8yrs!!! I think I'll swap over the HD in the donor unit to at least get me back to watching tv (what problems might I encounter since my understanding is that each access card is tied to an individual unit/HD)?

    Can anyone point me towards a straight forward reference for making an image of the old HD and putting in a new larger 1TB HD.

    Thanks
     
  4. May 18, 2012 #64 of 223
    DocNo

    DocNo Member

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    Bristow, VA
  5. May 18, 2012 #65 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

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    Go to

    http://www.mfslive.org


    and read about the MFS Live cd v1.4

    and then read about WinMFS

    keeping in mind that it's probably been a year or more since spike updated anything there, and that doesn't mean that some parts might be more out of date than that.

    After you've read til your eyeballs fall out, come back here and say which model TiVo we're talking about and exactly what you want to do with it hard-drive-wise, including drive sizes involved, and your reading will make our advice comprehensible.
     
  6. May 18, 2012 #66 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

    16,387
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    Forgot to mention, MFS Live supercedes MFS Tools.

    and with either, there's some stuff, like -r, and -z, that aren't really necessary on newer TiVos.
     
  7. May 18, 2012 #67 of 223
    mattack

    mattack Active Member

    20,743
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    Apr 9, 2001
    sunnyvale
    Dang, how are you guys finding OLED S3s so easily? I'd like one for the PS.. (yes I realize the new PS could also go bad, but mostly I'm trying to revive it.. since I'd ALSO try to revive the DRIVE that died on me too -- it spins, but I'm guessing the controller got fried.. so I want to try to someday find the same drive on eBay, replace controller.. and hopefully restore my ~1TB of recordings.. then sell the lifetime S3 and use the proceeds for an Elite..)
     
  8. May 28, 2012 #68 of 223
    George R

    George R New Member

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    Jan 15, 2004
    South Jersey
    Just had the same thing happen to my S3. I pulled one cable card, it re-started, installed the missing cable card, all was good for 2 weeks. I had to replace the power supply, good as new.
     
  9. Dec 8, 2012 #69 of 223
    cherry ghost

    cherry ghost Active Member

    5,277
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    Sep 13, 2005
    Chicago
    bump

    Series 3 is stuck in the "powering up" loop. Ejected CableCard #2 and it booted normally, so I'm assuming it's the power supply. No experience with soldering electronics, but I'm going to give it a try. Any recommendations on a basic soldering gun/iron to do the job(preferably from Amazon)?

    I probably won't do it right away, since it seems to be working fine with one tuner, but this is the TiVo that makes me eligible for MSD and I'd like to keep it running.
     
  10. Dec 8, 2012 #70 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

    16,387
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    A high enough wattage soldering iron will run you almost as much as

    http://www.amazon.com/7200PK-75-Watt-Standard-Lightweight-Soldering/dp/B00002N5JU

    I've never had my hands on that model, but this one (more watts, more money) is the classic

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N7S0

    and should last a lifetime if you don't drop it too often or from too high up.

    Apparently the included solder in these kits is now lead-free, and maybe a little hard to work with, so get one of these as well

    http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Pocket-Pack-Solder-0-031/dp/B00068IJNQ

    Use the gun tip to heat the area on the bottom of the power supply circuit board where the capacitor lead* is soldered, and feed in a little of that Kester solder--as it melts it helps melt the old solder.

    "Rock" the cap a little to pull the lead out from the molten solder, then melt the solder on the other lead, and rock that side, and work back and forth.

    Or use solder wick or a solder sucker.

    Be sure to get Low-ESR, 105 degree rated replacement caps of the same uF (microFarad) rating and at least the same voltage rating, or, if necessary, the next step up, voltage wise.

    When installing the new cap(s), be sure to get the polarity the same (use the careful and complete notes you made when you took out the old one).

    There's usually a stripe down the side nearest the negative (-) lead on caps with both leads coming out the bottom (known as radial leads--if it's a tube with a lead coming out of each end, that's axial lead and often they're marked with a + sign at the positive end instead, but the TiVo supplies all use radial lead caps)


    *pronounced leed, it's one of two "wires" coming out of the bottom of the capacitor

    EDIT: The sooner you take the lid off and eyeball that supply to see if you see any bad caps, the better. They aren't going to heal themselves and if things get bad enough you're talking possible data corruption.

    And when removing the supply, in addition to the #10 Torx bit screws you see inside the chassis, there's a dark colored #8 or #9 Torx bit screw that goes into the top of the AC input socket from the outside on the back panel.
     
  11. Dec 8, 2012 #71 of 223
    cherry ghost

    cherry ghost Active Member

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    Thanks unitron, I appreciate it. I'll open it up tomorrow and take a look.
     
  12. Dec 9, 2012 #72 of 223
    cherry ghost

    cherry ghost Active Member

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  13. Dec 9, 2012 #73 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

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    C401 and C402, right?

    Have a look at C701, a 25 Volt-er, on the other side of that heat sink, and C504 and C702 as well. If the tops aren't just as flat as flat can get, replace them as well.

    The Panasonic FM series are fine for this.
     
  14. Dec 9, 2012 #74 of 223
    cherry ghost

    cherry ghost Active Member

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    I didn't notice that writing anywhere, but I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

    Thanks!
     
  15. Dec 9, 2012 #75 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

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    The writing is in black and it's on the circuit board next to each component.

    You may have to break away some of that white goop to see some of the numbers.

    It's just glue to hold things in place during assembly and soldering.
     
  16. Dec 9, 2012 #76 of 223
    HerronScott

    HerronScott Well-Known Member

    2,783
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    Staunton, VA
    Those were the 2 that were bulging on one of my S3 OLED's when the power supply failed. Do have you have a TiVo S3 OLED or TiVoHD and what's the TiVo part number on the power supply board?

    Scott
     
  17. Dec 10, 2012 #77 of 223
    cherry ghost

    cherry ghost Active Member

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    C401 and the one right next to it(can't make it out). The others seem fine, but maybe I'll replace them anyway. Why those three?

    S3 OLED, TiVo PN: SPWR-00008-000 RevA3
     
  18. Dec 10, 2012 #78 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

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    So far on the original OLED S3, the 648, it seems equally divided between C401 and C402 as a pair, or C701, as to what shows bulging.

    So far in general, on S2 and S3 power supplies, it seems to be caps on either the +5V output or the +12V output that go bad.

    I mentioned the C504 because it's on the +5V line, and the C702 because it's on the +12V, although I have not personally seen any evidence of either of those 2 failing.

    I have just the one recently acquired 648 supply and it seems healthy so far, so I'm going on my experiences with 2 S2 supplies and an S3 HD (652) supply, in all of which I had to replace caps, and on the reports and photos from others.
     
  19. Dec 10, 2012 #79 of 223
    cherry ghost

    cherry ghost Active Member

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    Got it. Maybe I'll replace C701 along with C401 and C402.
     
  20. Dec 10, 2012 #80 of 223
    unitron

    unitron Active Member

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    Cheap insurance.
     

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