Remember the first rule: ALWAYS KNOW WHERE BOTH ENDS OF THE TIVO POWER CORD ARE AT ALL TIMES There are several threads around here somewhere that deal with re-capping S3 platform power supplies, including lists of Digi-Key and Mouser part numbers to aid in replacement ordering. As far as is known, the original S3 (the 648) has only one model power supply, whereas there are two models (neither of which is the 648 supply) which can be used in the HD (652) and HD XL (658), so be sure you know which supply you have. Something labeled C301 on one board might be called C15 on another one, the important thing is to match the uF number and match or slightly exceed if necessary the V number. That's microFarads of capacitance and the highest voltage across its leads to which the capacitor can safely be subjected. If the original is rated at 16V, you can't use a 10V or a 6.3V, but if you can't find a 16 in stock anywhere, then a 25V at the same uF would be acceptable, although if the original is a 25, you can't use a 16. They need to be rated at 105 degrees C (that's Celsius or Centigrade), not the 85 degrees at which general purpose electrolytic caps are rated, like all the ones in Radio Shack. And they need to be what's called Low ESR. (Low ESR caps are more expensive than regular ones, which has a lot to do with the shenanigans that got us into this "capacitor plague" mess in the first place.) That means that electricity moving in and out of them encounters less "friction", which means that movement of electricity won't generate as much heat as it would in general purpose electrolytics with higher Equivalent Series Resistance. Radio Shack has a thing that plugs into an electrical outlet and looks like a soldering iron with a squeeze bulb that's intended for removing solder, but you could probably use it to heat up the two things to be joined so that they melt the solder, which means you can use it for both phases of the re-capping job. Use rosin core solder made out of lead and tin and nothing else. Use the size that's about as big around as half way between cooked and uncooked strands of spaghetti. Observe polarity. There's a reason why electrolytic capacitors have one side marked with either a + or a - so that you know which lead is which. I say side because there are also caps with end markings and one lead coming out of each end, but the kind you want has both leads coming out the bottom. When you take out the old one, pay attention to which side went in which hole. You can see from the picture that the board is silk-screened with markings to indicate the - holes (which means by default the other hole is the + one). And in addition to the #10 Torx screws holding the power supply ciruit board down to the chassis, there's a #8 that screws in from the outside into the top of the AC input jack. Basically, the biggest cap on the board, rated at 200V, should be fine. The ones in the size range of those 5 in the picture (the two things on the left are inductors--coils--and the striped thing on the right is a resistor) are the ones you should replace on GP (so that you don't have to replace them later), including the ones on the other side of the heat sink(s), the little ones that aren't as near the heat sink(s) are probably okay as well.