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Help please - Tuner gone bad on a series 2

Discussion in 'DirecTV TiVo Powered PVRs & Receivers' started by mikeandnikki, Dec 28, 2006.

  1. Mar 7, 2010 #121 of 190
    nightrider

    nightrider New Member

    6
    0
    Oct 19, 2007
    I also had the severe pixilation on tuner 2 for months and it was resolved immediately when I removed the second output cables as suggested by posters earlier in this thread. So my slingbox is out of commission for the moment but I have my tivo back.
     
  2. Mar 8, 2010 #122 of 190
    TWood

    TWood New Member

    42
    0
    Feb 25, 2003
    Lawrencevill...
    I repaired both of my HDVR2s with this mod. Thanks to the following:

    Shcof for your research and detailed findings.
    genericuser for posting the description of your mod and the Radio Shack part number.
    Mark Griswold for posting your pictures. Those helped me immensely.
     
  3. Doeboy1

    Doeboy1 New Member

    3
    0
    Aug 9, 2004
    Same thing here...just running one output seemed to of helped me out. A pain in the arse as i like to record some stuff to DVD, but it is what it is for now...
     
  4. technojunkie

    technojunkie New Member

    172
    0
    Mar 15, 2000
    Charlotte
    Just an update, still working fine after making the mod 2 months ago.
     
  5. nmpeter

    nmpeter New Member

    3
    0
    Mar 25, 2008
    A little difficult doing surface soldering with my failing eyesight, but I managed to get them in on all three of my tivo's, so my wife will be _really_ happy to be able to get back to dual tuner goodness..and no more twidding with the dish, cables and whatever else has been bandied around for this problem.

    I'll get brave and try s-video later on..and one of the three is still pixelating a bit, perhaps _that+ one needs a power supply too ( it is our first box....the other were picked up on ebay and enhanced.

    thanks again.
     
  6. acii

    acii New Member

    32
    0
    Dec 8, 2002
    Stamford, VT
    I too want to express my gratitude to the gentlemen who deciphered this puzzle (and support the fact that it does work).

    It's been a week without a wayward pixel on an old HDVR2 that had become unwatchable.

    Many thanks again.
     
  7. Athenian

    Athenian New Member

    360
    0
    Jan 13, 2004
    Thank you very much for your detailed explanation of why the units fail and how to fix them. I am planning to try this on one of my boxes this afternoon but I have one question: how are the pins numbered; ie. where is pin number 1? Is number 3 on the side facing the 3 large capacitors or on the blank side?

    Update:

    Nevermind...I found the notch and made the repair.

    Thanks again.
     
  8. Jul 5, 2010 #128 of 190
    CRateau

    CRateau New Member

    1
    0
    Apr 24, 2010
    Hi.

    Just wanted to add my THANKS! My HDVR2 (?) had the pixalization problem on one tuner. I added a cap as suggested, and it's working great. That was about two months ago, and it's still working great!!!

    The only problem that I had was that my solder skills are not as good as they should be, and I apparently bridged a couple of pins at first. This gave me black and white picture...no color. I dug back in, did some de-soldering and cleaned up my job (a light with a built-in magnafier helped a lot here), and once I had that fixed, I had color, no pixalization, and nothing else broken. :)

    Thank you so much for this fix!!!! It's working wonders and made a huge difference in my ability to enjoy my DirecTV Tivo! :)

    Claude
     
  9. Lockheed

    Lockheed New Member

    1
    0
    May 5, 2006
    I know this is an older thread, but I just wanted to say THANK YOU!!

    My HDVR2 has had this pixelation problem for the past 2+ years, and at first removing the S-Video cable worked, but it progressively got worse even with just composite connected.

    I had been just living with it because I didn't wanna pay $100 to repair such an old unit. I had thought about picking up a used unit on eBay, but there was no guarantee it would not have the same/other problems.

    Finally stumbled on to this thread, and I soldered the cap to the IC as described. NO MORE PIXELATION!! I even had the right part sitting around in my spare parts box. :D

    Thank you so much!! :)
     
  10. ecurbswerdna

    ecurbswerdna New Member

    8
    0
    Aug 17, 2010
    I also want to express my thanks for this fix. I added the 470uf cap as instructed (across U49) and it helped somewhat. I also added one of the 2200uf caps in parallel (as someone else suggested) and that cured the problem, although I still get transponder dropouts on some channels. The "main" channels that I wanted to fix are "clean" now, so I will live with this.
    I did do a STUPID thing, which I will admit. While soldering the caps, the fan lead "hindered" me, so I unplugged it. I then forgot to reconnect it when I installed the cover. Later, when I checked, the unit was running HOT and I discovered that it wasn't working - found the fan problem - let it cool off, but the damage was done. Partial boot-up, but then dead. I found that the problem is only the hard drive, so now to replace that!!!

    Another thing I discovered that might interest all, is that CCS corporation is no longer repairing units.
     
  11. moonchilddave

    moonchilddave New Member

    44
    0
    May 19, 2008
    I have 2 DSR704 units that are both having issues. Is this procedure the same for those units as well? Anyone know? I replaced the power supply in one with one I bought from Weaknees that looked as if it was a direct pull from another unit (still had the white junk around the caps and dust on it). So I am assuming the power supply is good (didn't look like it had been a pull that was repaired). As others, removing the S-Video cable and the searching for Sat 2 issue goes away. I may have a go at replacing all the electrolytic caps on the supply I pulled and swap that back in and see if it makes a difference.

    Is there a good way to get that white hot glue up? Just pull at it with a pair of needlenose pliers?
     
  12. weaknees

    weaknees Active Member

    3,862
    0
    May 11, 2001
    Los Angeles
    The "white glue" that you see appears on brand new, out-of-the-box power supplies. It is completely normal. We had a large supply of brand new power supplies for these units, but no longer do. So (as we indicate online), the DIRECTV TiVo power supplies are tested and/or refurbished pulls. (We do have a supply of brand new HR10 power supplies--with the same white glue--but they aren't compatible with standard def TiVos.)

    If you replace the power supply and the problem continues, then your tuner issue is most likely attributable to some defective parts on the motherboard, which a tuner repair can fix.
     
  13. Sep 1, 2010 #133 of 190
    moonchilddave

    moonchilddave New Member

    44
    0
    May 19, 2008
    So does anyone here know if the fix outlined above applies to the Phillips DirecTiVo's? I'm an electronics tech and would rather fix this problem myself than send it off somewhere (thus not have it for a while) for repair. This fix of soldering a cap in place looks like a fairly easy and effective job.

    BTW, a small screwdriver and needle nose pliers work for getting up that white junk (almost like caulk or hardened bubble gum)... PITA! Someone should put together a cap kit for these power supplies.
     
  14. dmark1867

    dmark1867 Member

    31
    0
    Mar 22, 2005
    I would like to thank this forum and everyone that has posted.

    I have three Philips dsr704 TiVo’s and all of them started eventually having severe pixilation on tuner 2, to the point where they were useless as dual tuner machines.

    I changed the capacitors on the power supplies as shown here:
    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Repair-a-Hughes-HDVR2-Tivo-Power-Supply/

    I added the extra capacitor on the power supply but this resulted in no difference with the pixilation and lack of signal for tuner 2.

    With all three of mine if I did not use the 2nd composite connection the pixilation would go away but with my setup this is not an option that I wanted to use.

    So I ended having a co-worker that is great at soldering, solder a capacitor to chip U49

    I used the same capacitor that I used for the power supply which I purchased at mouser.com
    http://www.mouser.com/access/?pn=647-UPW1C222MHD

    Mouser Part #: 647-UPW1C222MHD
    Description: Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded 16volts 2200uF 12.5x25 20% 5LS

    This did fix the issue, but the legs of the capacitor were soldered directly to the chip and over time the capacitor would come off.
    With it soldered directly to the chip it just was not stable.

    To resolve this issue, he ended up soldering some wire to the chip and then the wire to the capacitor and then he mounted the capacitor as shown in the attached picture with a hot glue gun.

    This has worked out great for me. My issue of pixilation is completed fixed. I have been running this setup for around 6 months :D

    http://myplace.frontier.com/~vze6u2l6/1.jpg
    http://myplace.frontier.com/~vze6u2l6/2.jpg
    http://myplace.frontier.com/~vze6u2l6/3.jpg
     

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  15. ss_sea_ya

    ss_sea_ya New Member

    82
    0
    Sep 2, 2010
    Alexandria, VA
    I also experienced pixelization on Sat 2 (tuner 2) on my HDVR2. A long time ago, per suggestions here, I removed all inputs except RCA video and fiber optic Audio digital out and that vastly improved, but did not eliminate the situation. With a new season of shows upon us, I couldn't let this go any further.

    So, tonight, I also finally added the 470uF radio shack capacitor to the chip on the motherboard and it is working great again thru S-video. (I have the RCA Video jack disconnected). I also reconnected the L/R audio outputs as well in case I need to dump anything to tape (ok no one yell at me for still having it. ;) )

    My first attempt (last week), I also ended up with B&W picture. 2nd attempt just couldn't get the leads to hold to the chip. So I also had to call on my expert buddy with better eyes to help out on the soldering. This time it worked and all it cost me were two good six packs of beer and late Sat night pickup at the airport for him and his wife :)

    As for the polarity of the capacitor, one thing not mentioned but you can tell from the Pics, is Pin 7 (+) is closest to the three capacitors and Pin 3(-) Of course is on the other side.

    Again, thanks everyone for the pics and time discovering a solution that works.
     
  16. ss_sea_ya

    ss_sea_ya New Member

    82
    0
    Sep 2, 2010
    Alexandria, VA
    And it is very nice to have S-Video back!
     
  17. Nittany Lioness

    Nittany Lioness Won't hurt a bit

    25
    0
    Oct 22, 2010
    This seems to be the most exhaustive thread on the Tuner 2 problem,
    so I am bumping this thread as well.

    Moderators - I'd like to suggest this thread be stickied to the top.
    It is a BIG issue for many posters here - the question keeps getting raised.

    My immediate question is -

    Can someone tell me where one would buy a new capacitor, and where to look inside your unit to remove the old one(s)?


    Assume you terrific folks are talking to a complete novice with no navigation skills when looking "under the hood". Instruction like "see that big shiny brown cylinder thingie? - Go right and find the silver squiggly thing."

    I assume there is no labeling or numbering of parts under there?

    Edit to add:

    Will the exact voltage/info be on the original capacitor so I can know exactly what to buy to replace it?
    I see in some of the discussions that some are adding voltage (?) and that seems scary - why would you do that?

    I've had this unit (Philips DSR 708) for 6 years and so I would think that I should stick with equivalent power parts it originally came with, since it did work a good long while.
     
  18. stevel

    stevel Dumb Blond TCF Club

    28,179
    24
    Aug 23, 2000
    Nashua, NH
    Replacing the capacitor is not something for the novice. You need to know how to solder, at the very least. It's not a difficult repair if you have modest soldering skills, but if you don't even know which end of a soldering iron to hold, you're not going to get far.

    The "instructables" link in dmark1867's post gives you an idea of what you're looking at.
     
  19. goony

    goony New Member

    1,749
    0
    Nov 19, 2003
    A few things that I found made my task easier (of soldering to U49 leads):

    • Strong light
    • Magnifier if you have poor eyesight. I'm blessed at age 56 to still be able to read the microprint (without glasses) on a new $20 bill if I have enough light.
    • Very fine solder, 63/37 alloy if you can get it
    • If you mount the cap elsewhere (like I did), use 30 ga. solid wirewrap wire for leads, about 1/16th inch or so bare to solder to the IC legs. I had red wire, so I used a black Sharpie pen to mark the negative wire along its length. Also, pre-strip the ends that go to the cap, or hold with pliers while stripping else you will jerk the wires right off of the legs of the U49 IC (like I did).
    • If you're really an old hardware hack like me and have the wire-wrap tool, just wire-wrap the 30ga wires to the cut-off capacitor leads and then solder them.
    • If you're like me and had a slightly larger soldering iron, get some bare solid 14ga. copper wire (i.e. from a scrap of Romex) and take 2 inches or so and wrap it around your cold iron tip, cut off what you don't need leaving about 1/2 or 3/4 inch sticking out beyond the end of the tip, pointed in the same direction as the tip (pliers may help you do the wrap). Use sharp diagonal cutters and/or a file to make a very tiny, triangular pointy tip. When the iron is hot and it's time to solder, just tin your "home-made tip" with a bit of solder and proceed. If the home-made tip isn't getting hot, then put a dab of solder on the wrapped part and it will conduct heat quickly. If you added solder to help the heat transfer, remove your temporary tip with pliers while the iron is still hot.
    • I just used slight extra solder on the tip to tack the wires to the IC legs - I didn't try to "feed solder" as my 3rd hand/arm is somehow missing from birth. :^)
    • I mounted the cap on its side on top of the composite jacks via a dab of RTV silicone (same location as dmark1867 pic #3). I'm using one of the same caps as specified for the power supply fix; I had a few extras.

    With the home-made tip I got perfect results - no "torched" look or messed-up IC legs or runs. Too bad my digital camera is loaned out or I'd snap a pic and post it.

    If you're not an experienced solder jockey, find some junk PC board with surface mount components on it and try your skills on it - if you can tack on wires or a spare component onto tiny IC legs on that board several times without burning things up or making a mess, then you're probably ready to try it on your DTivo.
     
  20. Nittany Lioness

    Nittany Lioness Won't hurt a bit

    25
    0
    Oct 22, 2010
    Wow, goony and everybody - thank you so very much for the detailed explanations.
    You all on this board are so helpful.

    I have a Philips DSR708, and this past weekend we removed the power supply capacitor explained earlier in this thread, and went to the one electronics store in my po-dunk town that told me over the phone they had the right replacement - get there and they closed 1/2 hour early!!!
    I was so steamed. We soldered the cap back on, because - hey - one tuner working is still better than none! Plus, hubby went away Monday for a week long business trip, and he's the one doing the soldering ...

    Anyway - upon closer reading of the later posts here, do you all think we should do the U49 add-on, and not bother with replacing the power supply capacitor?
    It wasn't "bulging" by the way - visually it looked fine.

    Hubby will have to buy a new finer point soldering iron, I gather, but he's always looking for an excuse to buy new power tools, this would be no different. ;)
     

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